Burghfield Bridge, Theale, Tyle Mill, Ufton Bridge, Aldermaston Wharf, WoolhamptonThe first stage along the canal starts out from the River Thames and heads through the hustle and bustle of Reading town centre before passing into a more rural setting. After the M4 motorway, the route passes Garston Lock, one of only two turf-sided locks along the canal; along this part of the route there are several flooded gravel pits. After Theale, the route heads for Aldermaston Wharf, home to a small canal visitor centre and tea room, before continuing to the stage end at Woolhampton, beside the Rowbarge pub. For large parts of the stage, the canal and River Kennet flow as one.
From Reading railway station to the canal
Leave through the north (Caversham) exit, follow the signed walking/cycle route for Christchurch Meadows and Caversham past the bus stops, then across the A329 and along Norman Place to the River Thames. Turn right along the Thames Path for 1.7km to the junction with the canal at Kennet Mouth. Follow the Thames Path over Horseshoe Bridge and turn sharp left, doubling back under the bridge to join the canal heading into Reading.
Reading was once home to a great abbey founded by Henry I in 1121 – now only sections of flint rubble walls remain. The playwright, poet and novelist Oscar Wilde was imprisoned at Reading Gaol in the late 1800s and following his release he wrote The Ballad of Reading Gaol. Reading Museum (0118 937 3400), housed in the Victorian Gothic Town Hall, charts the town’s history and includes Roman artefacts from Calleva Atrebatum and a copy of the Bayeux Tapestry. (Walk 1 takes in the abbey ruins, the site of Reading Gaol, the Town Hall and Museum, and explores other locations in Reading.)
The town is often known for the ‘Three Bs’ of Beer, Bulbs and Biscuits, relating to three former industries that originated in the town: Simonds’ Brewery, established by William Blackall Simonds in 1785; Suttons Seeds, founded in 1806 by John Sutton to provide corn seed and which expanded into flower and vegetable seeds in 1837; and Huntley & Palmers, originally started by Joseph Huntley in 1822, which by 1900 had become the largest biscuit manufacturer in the world.
The last remaining building from the former Huntley & Palmers biscuit factory in Reading
The journey of 152.1km (94½ miles) along the Kennet and Avon Canal starts at Kennet Mouth, where the canal and River Kennet join with England’s longest river, the Thames.
The Thames rises in Gloucestershire and meanders for 346km (215 miles) through eight counties. The 72km (45 mile) River Kennet rises at several locations, including Swallowhead Spring close to Silbury Hill (Avebury), and meets up with the canal on numerous occasions throughout the first two stages.
Head away from the River Thames (canal on right), passing under two railway bridges. Pass the Jolly Anglers pub (0118 376 7823), Blake’s Lock and the Fisherman’s Cottage pub (0118 956 0432), following Kennet Side. There are 105 locks to pass, from Blake’s Lock (107) to Bristol’s Hanham Lock (1). Lock 98 is disused, and locks 8 and 9 have been combined.
Pass under two road bridges and ignore a footbridge, joining Duke’s Street beside a bridge. Cross slightly left and keep ahead, following the left-hand side of the canal through the Oracle Shopping Centre. This was the site of the former Simonds’ Brewery (demolished in 1983) and the narrow section of canal was known as the ‘Brewery Gut’.
At Bridge Street, cross over the canal to follow the right-hand side of the combined canal and river past the weir, with County Lock (106) over to the left. (The brick building on the right, now a restaurant, was once part of the Simonds’ Brewery.) Continue for 2.7km, passing under four bridges, keeping close to the canal. At Fobney Lock (105), follow the path past some buildings, then swing left across a bridge and turn right past the lock; a gate on the left gives access to Fobney Island Wetland Nature Reserve.
Leave Fobney Island via the bridge over the weir and turn right to continue alongside the canal, soon passing under the railway bridge. Turn right over the footbridge and go left, ignoring a footbridge (12) on the right, and pass Southcote Lock (104). Keep ahead for 1.3km to reach Burghfield Bridge (14); here, on the left, is the thatch-roofed Cunning Man pub (0118 959 8067).
Keep ahead and cross over the canal at the next footbridge (15), before continuing past Burghfield Lock (103). Cross a stile and continue through a large open field to a path junction on the far side near a pillbox (this is the first of many to be seen along the canal – see ‘Brief history of the canal’ in the Introduction). Turn left over Hissey’s Bridge (17) and then turn right, soon passing under the M4 to reach Garston Lock (102), beside two pillboxes.
Garston Lock is one of only two turf-sided locks along the canal; the other is Monkey Marsh Lock (Stage 2)
Continue along the canal past the lock (101), passing a sign that says it is 6 miles back to Reading and 13½ miles to Newbury (and a car park on the left, SU 648 705), to reach the road and bridge (19) to the south of Theale. Some 650 metres to the left along the road is the Fox and Hounds (0118 930 2295) at Sheffield Bottom; 550 metres to the right is the railway station, with Theale village 400 metres further on (pubs, shops, post office and accommodation).
Along the main street in Theale are a number of interesting buildings including the late 15th-century thatch-roofed Old Lamb Hotel (0118 930 2357). The more recent Victorian Gothic-style Holy Trinity Church, inspired by Salisbury Cathedral, is built of Bath stone that was brought along the canal in the 1830s. The village has four pubs: the Bull (0118 930 3478), the Crown Inn (0118 930 2310), the Volunteer (0118 930 2489) and the Falcon (0118 930 2523). The railway line, originally opened in the 1840s, now forms the line from London to the south-west and closely follows the canal as far as Pewsey (Stage 3).
Keep ahead alongside the canal, passing a flooded gravel pit, then a lock (100) followed by a swing bridge. The route then follows a meandering river section through a field to reach a minor road bridge (23) at Tyle Mill, where there is parking (SU 626 691). Some 500 metres north-west, at the junction with the A4, is the Spring Inn pub (0118 930 3440); 800 metres south-east is Sulhamstead (accommodation).
Continue along the south side of the canal, past Tyle Mill Lock (99) and soon passing through open fields. At Ufton Bridge turn right across the River Kennet and the canal before immediately turning left to rejoin the towpath beside the disused Ufton Lock (98); the canal and River Kennet are now separate for 4.3km.
The tea room and visitor centre at Aldermaston Wharf
Continue along the right-hand side of the canal for 2.5km, passing two bridges (26 and 27) and two locks (97 and 96) to reach the A340 and lift bridge (28) at Aldermaston Wharf. On the right, shortly before the main road, is the canal visitor centre and tea room (0118 971 2868), housed in a former canal worker’s cottage. For the railway station,
