– this is where the Hampshire River Avon rises) as his ‘land of promise’ and ‘a most beautiful sight’.
From Hungerford (see Stage 2), the towpath follows the south (left) side of the canal for 7.9km to Great Bedwyn, passing Hungerford Lock (74) and then St Lawrence’s Church beside the swing bridge (85). Continue straight on along the towpath, passing through gates, to enter a field that forms part of Freeman’s Marsh, then keep ahead to reach Hungerford Marsh Lock (73) with its central swing bridge (86).
Since the 14th century, registered commoners have had the right to fish and graze animals on Freeman’s Marsh and these rights are still exercised under the rules of the Hocktide Court. More importantly, the marsh supports a rich wildlife: marsh marigolds and southern marsh orchids grow in the wet meadows, while the River Dun, a typical chalk stream, is home to trout and bullheads, plants such as yellow iris and water crowfoot, and the endangered water vole; birds include kingfishers and reed buntings.
To visit Cobbs Farm Shop & Kitchen (01488 686770), cross the canal via the swing bridge (86) and turn left towards the house. Bear right along the track, cross the footbridge over the River Dun and go through a gate to reach the A4, with the shop opposite; retrace your steps back to the canal (650 metres each way).
Continue straight on to pass Cobblers Lock (72) and a footbridge, then go under the railway bridge and past a lock (71) to reach a minor road bridge (90); from here, a short detour (350 metres each way) to the right along the minor road then left beside the A4 leads to the Pelican Inn (01488 682479, accommodation) at Froxfield. Some 400 metres further on are the late 17th-century almshouses. Originally built to house widows of clergymen, the quadrangle of 50 cottages still provides sheltered housing for women.
The route now leaves Berkshire and continues through Wiltshire, passing three locks (parking at lock 68, SU 299 671) and two bridges to reach lock 67 at Little Bedwyn; just before the lock, the footbridge (93) across the canal and railway gives access to St Michael’s Church.
St Michael’s Church, just off the canal at Little Bedwyn
Little Bedwyn, a small village straddling the River Dun, canal and railway, was known as Estbedwinda in 1177. It is home to St Michael’s Church, dating from the 12th century, some picturesque cottages and an upmarket restaurant, the Harrow. A short way to the west is Chisbury and the remains of an Iron Age hill fort. Within the earthworks, near Chisbury Manor Farm, is the empty shell of St Martin’s Chapel (English Heritage), which dates from the 13th century.
Keep ahead under the road bridge and pass a further two locks to reach the road bridge (95) at Great Bedwyn.
Great Bedwyn has a railway station, shop, post office and two pubs: the Three Tuns (01672 870280) and the Cross Keys (01672 870332). It also has a rather large church, the Church of St Mary the Virgin, which dates from 1092 although most of what is visible dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. Step inside to see an impressive monument to Sir John Seymour, father of Jane Seymour who married King Henry VIII in 1536, becoming his third wife; their son became Edward VI. The church also holds the stone figure of a knight, believed to be Sir Adam de Stokke (d.1313), and the tomb of Sir Roger de Stokke (d.1333), son of Sir Adam.
Continue under the road bridge, past the parking area (SU 280 644), and continue along the south side of the canal for 2.9km, passing four locks to reach lock 60, with Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines on the right and Wilton Water on the left; a waymarked path heads south-east alongside Wilton Water to reach the Swan (01672 870274) at Wilton (1km each way). At lock 61, a crossing track follows the course of a Roman road that ran between Venta Bulgarum (Winchester) and Cunetio (near Mildenhall).
Just east of Wilton village is Wilton Windmill. Originally built in 1821, it has been lovingly restored to full working condition and is Wiltshire’s only working windmill. The fantail keeps the sails aligned with the wind, acting as an automatic rudder (01672 870266).
To visit Crofton Pumping Station and Beam Engines
Cross the canal via the lock gate and follow the path through the tunnel under the railway, then up the steps; retrace your steps back across the canal and turn right.
The world-famous Crofton Pumping Station was built in 1807 so that water from natural springs at Wilton could be raised by 12m to the summit of the canal to replenish the water lost each time a boat went through a lock. Wilton Water, on the opposite bank, was created in 1836 to provide a larger store of water that could be pumped into the canal. Although electric pumps are now used to pump water into the canal, Crofton’s magnificent steam-driven beam engines – one of which is the oldest working beam engine in the world – are still used on several occasions throughout the year (01672 870300).
The route continues along the south side of the canal, passing five locks and the brick abutments of the former railway bridges of the Swindon, Marlborough and Andover Railway. After passing Crofton Top Lock (55), the route is following the highest section – the summit pound – of the canal, which stretches for 4km to Cadley Lock (54).
At Wolfhall Bridge (103), a track heads south for 600 metres to Wolfhall. Suddene Park Farm, which offers B&B and a campsite, is 500 metres further on.
Wolfhall was once the home of Sir John and Lady Margaret Seymour. Their daughter Jane married Henry VIII as his third queen and gave him a son (Edward VI); Henry VIII visited Wolfhall in 1535 and 1539. The great manor has long since disappeared; the present Wolfhall Manor is Victorian. The house gave its name to Hilary Mantel's novel Wolf Hall.
Shortly before the entrance to the Bruce Tunnel, fork up to the left (or turn up the steps at the tunnel entrance and then turn right) and keep ahead to cross the minor road. Just to the left is the former Savernake Forest Hotel, built in 1864 (now private houses).
The plaque at the Bruce Tunnel commemorates a local landowner, Thomas Brudenell-Bruce, Earl of Ailesbury
The 459-metre-long Bruce Tunnel (the only long tunnel on the canal) is named after the local landowner, Thomas Brudenell-Bruce, Earl of Ailesbury, who lived at nearby Tottenham House. The tunnel has no towpath, which meant that the horse-drawn barges had to be pulled through the tunnel by the boatmen using chains fixed to the walls, while the horses were taken over the top.
Continue along the enclosed path, soon heading down steps to pass under the railway, and then bear left along the south side of the canal to pass Burbage Wharf just after passing under the A346 bridge (104).
Burbage Wharf is home to a replica wharfside crane
At Burbage Wharf, on the opposite bank, is a replica wharfside crane (private). These were once a common sight along the canal. Just to the north is Savernake Forest, a tranquil remnant of a much larger medieval royal hunting ground, first mentioned in a Saxon charter dated AD934. William the Conqueror gave Savernake to one of his knights, and it has passed in an unbroken line for over 30
