has finished the Camino Francés and is looking for another memorable pilgrimage experience.
After weighing the options, this route follows most closely the Via di Francesco and Via di Roma itineraries from Santuario della Verna to Rome, occasionally opting for the other routes when they offer a better option. The primary addition is a walking itinerary from Florence to hard-to-reach Santuario della Verna, which mostly follows the German guidebooks, leading pilgrims through the lovely Casentino Park.
A group of pilgrims walking to Assisi from Spello (Stage 16)
Geography and climate
The Apennine range is the thick spine of the Italian peninsula, and the forested Central Apennines form the north and east borders of the route of the Way of St Francis. On the Western slopes of the Central Apennines the primary rivers are tributaries of the Arno and Tiber (Tevere), which catch rainfall from western Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio before flowing into the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian Seas.
Because of this rugged topography, the Way of St Francis is often a challenging walk. Veteran Camino de Santiago pilgrims may compare several of the days to a walk over the Route Napoleon that crosses the Pyrenees. A daily climb and descent of 500 to 1000 meters is not unusual.
Mount Terminillo and other snowy peaks in the Central Apennines create weather patterns that ensure regular rainfall, and the mountain streams and aquifers supply pure water that is bottled and shipped all over Italy at water plants like Cottorella near Rieti. For pilgrims, this environment means that sporadic rain is assured in any season of the year.
Some who haven’t visited Central Italy are surprised to discover this lovely region has four distinct seasons, with frequent freezing temperatures in the winter as well as very hot temperatures in the summer. Snow is common at the higher elevations included on this itinerary, with chilly temperatures and more rain in the lowlands. Summers bring the high temperatures expected of Italy, but rainfall averages year round show why the region remains green.
For pilgrims, the geography and climate offer rewards – breathtaking views from lofty mountain ridges and long walks in ancient forests or among green fields in quiet valleys. But it is also important for pilgrims to plan and prepare well for the challenges ahead.
Looking back toward Cantalice (Stage 23)
Getting there
Florence
Florence has a mid-sized international airport that can be reached from major airline hubs in Europe. Upon arrival, pilgrims can share a €25 taxi for the 30-minute ride to the center city or can wait for the VolaInBus – a shuttle to the Santa Maria Novella train station that leaves every 30 minutes (from 5.30am to 1.00am, €6, cash only, exact change preferred). Santa Maria Novella is the central train station in Florence and is served by trains from all over Europe. Florence’s main attractions are all a quick walk from here, as is the Basilica of Santa Croce, start of the pilgrimage.
You can also get to Florence from Rome, whose Fiumicino Airport has excellent connections to cities around the world. The 30-min express train from the airport to Rome’s Termini Station costs €14 and from there the 1hr 30min ride to Florence costs about €38.
Santuario della Verna
Without a car, a trip to La Verna requires a train and/or bus, most often through Bibbiena.
From Florence
By bus, take the Etruria Mobilitá (www.etruriamobilita.it) to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Pieve Santo Stefano bus to go to Santuario Della Verna. You can also take the train (www.trenitalia.com) from Florence to Arezzo, then transfer to a local TFT train (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) to Bibbiena and take the Etruria Mobilitá bus from there.
From Rome
Take the train to Arezzo, transfer to the TFT train from Arezzo to Bibbiena, and then transfer to the Etruria Mobilitá bus to Santuario della Verna as above.
Assisi
Most travelers to Assisi choose to fly to Florence or Rome and then take the train to Assisi’s nearest station, Santa Maria Degli Angeli. From the station there is a €1.50 each 30min for the last 2.5km uphill to Assisi. Otherwise it’s a 45-minute walk uphill on the ‘Pax et Bonum’ pedestrian walkway from the train station to Assisi.
Assisi also shares the Aeroporto San Francesco d’Assisi (PEG) with Perugia at Sant’Egidio, about 10km out of town (www.airport.umbria.it), with direct links to several European cities including London (Stansted), Catania, Tirana, Brussels (Charleroi) and Molta. Information on the infrequent local bus (number E007) can be found at www.umbriamobilita.it under ‘S Egidio Aeroporto’, but lack of frequent runs makes it most convenient to pay the approximately €25 cab fare for the 15-minute trip to Assisi.
See Appendix B for a directory of contact details including those of local and national transport providers.
Rocca Maggiore Castle of upper Assisi (Stage 16A)
Getting around
Once in Italy there are relatively economical and simple options for getting around the country.
By train
As with most of Europe, Italy has a good train infrastructure. The TrenItalia system (www.trenitalia.com) serves several stops on the itinerary for this walk, including Florence (Stage 1), Pontassieve (Stage 2), Assisi (Stage 16), Spello (Stage 17), Foligno and Trevi (Stage 18), Spoleto (Stage 19), Marmore (Stage 21), Rieti (Stage 24) and Monterotondo (Stage 27). TrenItalia tickets are purchased at automated kiosks in train stations which take cash, credit or debit cards (PIN required). They can also be purchased online, although the system requires a membership and identification.
As mentioned above, Tuscany has the small TFT train system (www.trasportoferroviariotoscano.it) that connects Stia (Stage 4) to Bibbiena with its bus connections to Camaldoli and La Verna, plus Arezzo with its TrenItalia station connecting TFT to the main rail network. Tickets are purchased at the station or at nearby tobacco stores or cafés.
Umbria has its FCO system, now run by Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) that to and Città di Castello (Stage 11) through Perugia (and in the near future to Terni). Perugia and Terni both offer TrenItalia connections. Tickets are purchased at the station.
In Italy, always make certain to validate your ticket by stamping it in the station’s validation machine after your purchase or be ready to pay a €40 fine.
By bus
Italy’s buses are
