Sansepolcro (Stage 9) the Etruria Mobilitá system (www.etruriamobilita.it) serves each stop on the itinerary. Umbria Mobilitá (www.umbriamobilita.it) serves the Umbrian portion between Sansepolcro and Piediluco (Stage 22), while Cotral (www.cotralspa.it) serves the Lazio portion from Poggio Bustone (Stage 23) to Rome (Stage 28). Bus schedules are usually posted at each bus stop, and tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops or from the driver. Always remember to stamp your ticket in the validation machine behind the driver’s seat.
Appendix B includes contact details for each region’s public transport providers.
The Piazza and tower in Valfabbrica (Stage 14)
When to go
April to June and mid-August through October are the best times to walk the Way of St Francis. During these months the temperatures range from mild to hot and the rainfall is at its lowest. The weeks between 1 July and 15 August are historically the hottest of the year and are best avoided unless you’re ready for very warm temperatures.
The month of August – particularly its last weeks – is when Italians take their own holidays. For the last 2000 years Italians have celebrated Ferragosto – a two-week holiday at the end of August when Italians close their shops and retreat to the mountains and beaches. It is not unusual for small businesses and restaurants to be closed the entire month, but shops dependent on tourism (or pilgrimage) business will most always remain open.
Due to the winter climate of the highlands and the likelihood of heavy rain and snow, a pilgrimage between November and March on certain portions of the Way of St Francis is unwise. The possibility of trail washouts, overflowing streams and signage lost due to snow – not to mention the danger of hypothermia and getting lost – outweigh any advantages of walking in these months. Likewise, walking in the shoulder months of November and April can mean that some accommodation is not yet open for the season and that tiny creeks mentioned here may be swollen with the rains and snowmelt.
Pilgrims may want to coordinate their journey around special holidays in the Italian communities on the pilgrimage. Gubbio’s Corsa dei Ceri is held on 15 May each year, and Spello’s Infiorata lands on the ninth Sunday after Easter. Near Assisi are Perugia’s Umbria Jazz in July and EuroChocolate in October, and Spoleto’s Due Mondi in June/July attracts classical artists from around the world. Although the festivals are a real treat, pilgrims should be aware that accommodation might be scarce without adequate advance reservations.
Accommodation
Stages have been arranged to coincide with available lodging. Where possible, at least three accommodation options are listed per daily stage. The daily listings include low-cost hotels, agriturismi, and foresterie (guest houses), and at least one hostel, if available. Where possible the address, phone number (exclusive of the +039 prefix for Italy), email address and price for a single and double room are included.
Wherever you stay, it is important to plan ahead and make a reservation, whether you use hotels, agriturismi or hostels. Make your reservations at least 2–3 days in advance so you know you’ll have a suitable place to stay. Hostels often do not use email and phone is sometimes the only option. Try not to make reservations more than 4–5 days ahead so you maintain some flexibility in your plans.
See Appendix B (Useful contacts) for a stage-by-stage list of tourist information offices; if you find yourself struggling to make a booking they may be able to help.
Hostels
A growing number of local parishes and monasteries have opened small hostels for use by pilgrims. In smaller towns along the route, many parishes or convents open up spare rooms for use by pilgrims. A sleeping bag is not required since virtually every hostel makes pillows and blankets available for free or for a small cost (except as noted). Do plan on bringing a sleeping bag liner, though, since sheets are seldom included.
Rifugios
These are mountain huts found in national parks (such as the Casentino) and they are maintained by the local chapters of the Club Alpino Italia (CAI). Extremely basic, there may simply be a bare cot, table and fireplace and no restaurant nearby. With only one rifugio along the way – just after Camaldoli – it’s likely not worth it to plan to stay there since an overnight would require a sleeping bag, food, cooking utensils and a gas stove.
Agriturismi
An agriturismo is a rural guesthouse, with eating accommodations that range from small dining rooms with prepared meals to apartments with kitchens. An overnight at an agriturismo with breakfast and dinner can be in the €70–90 range, and if it is remotely located there may be no other dining options. It’s always best to check in advance about the eating options so you can make the meal choice that best meets your budget. In a few cases this means opting out of the agriturismo dinner in favor of a walk or hitched ride to a nearby restaurant.
Hotels
Hotels in Italy almost always include a continental-style breakfast. Those featured in this guide usually range from €30–50 per person per night. Reduce the cost by sharing a double room with a companion. Expect to be asked for your passport when you check in, but not to pay until you check out; if you plan to leave early in the morning, ask to pay the night before. And don’t forget to pick up your passport before you leave.
Foresterie
A foresteria is a hotel run by a convent or monastery (such as Camaldoli and La Verna) that offers hotel-like rooms with breakfast and a one-menu dinner included in the price.
Camping
While it is possible to camp, you would need a tent or other gear for outdoor sleeping which would mean unnecessary extra weight. In Italy, camping is legal only in designated campgrounds.
Eating in Italy
An espresso with perhaps a croissant (cornetto in Italian) is an Italian breakfast. Lunch is served in early afternoon and is followed by the riposo (see ‘Business hours and the riposo’, below). Early evening is time for a snack – a glass of beer or wine with tiny bites of food. Although restaurants generally open around 7.30pm, Italians usually enjoy dinner from around 8.00pm until 10.30pm. Restaurants often are open until midnight, although the kitchen may close sooner. Efficiency-loving Northern Europeans and Americans may need to learn the ‘slow food’ pattern of Italian restaurant meals, where the kitchen expects you to take your time enjoying food, wine and conversation.
Pizza and pasta are, of course, omnipresent in Italy. However, almost every town has its special take on pasta, and you will endear yourself to your server by ordering the local specialty. In Tuscany and Umbria, beef and pork are highly prized and the many varieties of cured meats are famous the world over.
Even in a plain-looking restaurant a full Italian meal can be expensive, so if you’re on a budget (or simply can’t eat that much food) feel free to pick and choose from any of the courses. If you do, the server will want to know in what order you’d like your food.
Budgeting and cash
If you’re on a tight budget, plan ahead to take advantage of private and parochial hostels. If you prefer to stay in hotels you can save a lot of money by having a companion or two to share the cost. You can cut down on food expense by shopping for your lunch at a grocery store the night before. Only occasionally will you find a room or hostel with a kitchen,
