world of faith. This six-day part of the Way of St Francis carries the walker from the marble statues and frescoed vaults of Florence to remote mountain retreats where centuries earlier reclusive monks, nuns and friars tamed their inner demons to find union with their Creator. The goal, Santuario della Verna, is a mountaintop retreat held dear by St Francis, who loved it for its seclusion.
In Stage 2 comes the moment of transition: turning away from the cultivated vineyards and olive groves of the Arno River Valley at Diacceto, the path takes the pilgrim directly ahead into the deep forests of the looming Central Apennine mountain range. The cultured walls of Renaissance Florence fade into memory as the pilgrim meets the friendly solitude of nature, so prized by mystics.
The route, sometimes wild and untamed, climbs up mountains and down into valleys, all within the drainage of the Arno and its tributaries. After Pontassieve the settlements are mostly mountain hamlets, with Stia and its neighbor, Pratovecchio, the largest towns. From Consuma onward each village on the itinerary serves in some form as a gateway to the vast Casentino National Park and Forest, whose 826 square kilometers of forests and mountains are carefully managed by the Italian government. These rugged woodlands are home to diverse plants and wildlife, including deer, wolves and wild boar. Since this section of trail has only recently become official, waymarks can be spotty and trails poorly maintained.
Recreational tourists far outnumber pilgrim walkers on these mountain trails, but pilgrims benefit from an infrastructure of economical lodging and services. The route at times treads portions of other important trail routes – the Grande Escursione Appenninica, the Sentiero Italia, the Cammino di San Vicino, and the lush and beautiful Sentiero delle Foreste Sacre near La Verna.
Hermits, monks and friars – travelers along the active and cloistered walks toward God – can be found along these trails at two of Italy’s most revered religious communities. Eremo Camaldoli has been home to monks for nearly 1000 years, while this section’s end point, Santuario della Verna, is an active Franciscan community inaugurated by St Francis himself. Pilgrims may want to plan an extra night here to enjoy Franciscan hospitality, visit the many chapels and monuments, and spend extra hours in contemplation at one of Italy’s most holy sites.
STAGE 1
Florence to Pontassieve
| Start | Basilica of Santa Croce, Florence |
| Finish | Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, Pontassieve |
| Distance | 18.9km |
| Total ascent | 494m |
| Total descent | 450m |
| Difficulty | Easy |
| Duration | 4¾hrs |
| Note | Santa Croce doesn’t open until 9.30am so you should visit its bookshop the day before to acquire the stamp for your credential. |
Memories of Renaissance masterpieces fade quickly as this stage travels along quiet bends of the scenic Arno River and briefly among olive groves before coming to modern, but charming Pontassieve.
FLORENCE 50MPOP 367,796
Florence’s many works of art and culture deserve additional study beyond the scope of this book. If you have never visited Florence, plan at least 1–2 days to enjoy its sites with a good guide or guidebook.
Make your way from the most common entry point – Santa Maria Novella train station – to the starting point of the first stage of the Way of St Francis at the Basilica Santa Croce. As well as being the largest Franciscan church in the world, the Basilica Santa Croce is sometimes called the ‘mausoleum of Italy’ since it contains the tombs of some of Italy’s most revered citizens. The basilica itself is darker and more dense with color than its more famous sibling, the Duomo of Florence. Spend time here to enjoy the ornate tombs and rich frescoes. Entry costs €6 and visiting time is from 9.30am−5.00pm Monday to Saturday, and 1.00pm−5.00pm Sunday. Watch for closures on special holidays. A lovely pilgrim stamp (timbro) is available at the bookshop inside the main basilica.
As one of Italy’s main tourist destinations, Florence has hundreds of hotels. Two on the lower end of the price scale and near the train station are the recently renovated Hotel Eden (Via Nazionale 55, tel 055 483722, [email protected], €50/60, breakfast included) and Hotel Accademia (Via Faenza 7, tel 055 293451, [email protected], €50/55, breakfast included). Florence also has several hostels, but most popular among pilgrims and near the Campo di Marte is 7 Santi Hostel (Viale dei Mille 11, tel 055 5048452, [email protected], from €19), set in a former monastery. Another fine choice is Hostel Santa Monaca set in a 15th century-convent in the Santo Spirito quarter (Via S. Monaca 5, tel 055 268 338, [email protected], from €11).
At the steps of Basilica Santa Croce, facing the church, follow the street to the right until it ends in one block, then turn left onto Via dei Tintori. In just 1½ blocks you see the raised sidewalk alongside the Arno River. Cross the street and follow this sidewalk past the busy riverside hotels, with the old tower of Florenced’s original walls visible across the river. Car traffic crosses the Arno on successive bridges. Before the second bridge find a footpath down to the dirt trail alongside the river. This path will take you all the way out of urban Florence.
Not long after crossing under the railway bridge come to the town of San Jacopo al Girone (6.7km). At the entry to town and just before a childrend’s outdoor play area, turn left off the path and follow Via del Girone alongside the railroad tracks for two long blocks to the stoplight and piazza at the center of town. Cross left, under the tracks, and then veer right onto the white brick sidewalk of Via San Jacopo. At the end of the sidewalk turn left and follow Via dei Bassi as it winds its narrow way uphill along stone walls and through olive groves. At the second right, turn onto Via della Rosa which traverses the hillside then descends with views of Compiobbi below. Follow the road downhill past the railroad tracks where it finally ends at Strada Proviniciale 110 in Compiobbi (10km).
Now turn right at the Strada Provinciale, cross under the railroad tracks and then cross the Via Arentina highway. Here the official path heads back up into the hills, but a shorter and quieter option is across the street. Here in the small piazza are a bank, restaurant and cafá/bar.Take the trail just past the newspaper kiosk at the right side of the piazza along the slow and lazy Arno River. In 300m turn left at a yellow utility tower and walk the steps up to the protected walk beside the highway. In 400m you come to the riverside town of Ellera. Continue as the walkway becomes a sidewalk and then briefly rejoin the highway at a traffic circle in the town of Le Falle.
Just after the traffic circle look for a new, nondescript, yellow church on the left side of the road. Immediately after this turn left onto tiny Via Le Folle. Cross under the railroad tracks and cross the pedestrian bridge that spans the creek.
The official route rejoins here. Follow the walkway, then turn left at its end and follow Via Gricigliano uphill beside a yellow apartment building. At the fork in 300m turn right onto Via Paretaio.
The
