road veers to the right and in 700m crosses back under the railroad bridge. Turn left at the highway and carefully follow it on the left shoulder for 200m to the town of Sieci (13.4km). Walk on the highwayd’s sidewalk and cross the Arno tributary on the highway bridge. Just after the bridge, turn right onto the pedestrian walkway along the river.
The flat, gravel path along the Arno River makes for a relaxing and tranquil walk
Follow this trail to enjoy the last quiet moments along the beautiful Arno. Turn left, away from the river, at Via Toscanini after the park and continue across the Via Arentina highway at a roundabout. Cross under the railroad tracks on the right side of the road and immediately make a hard right, doubling back to a dirt road that follows alongside the tracks. Follow this road until it ends at a house.
Looking down toward Compiobbi
Turn left and aim uphill on the gravel road past a yellow, concrete utility tower. Turn right at the tower and follow the dirt road across the hillside among vineyards. The road turns right again to head down toward the tracks and when it is near, back up a path to the left that goes through a small woods. Soon come to a gravel road which you follow right and downhill. The gravel road becomes concrete as it enters the outskirts of Pontassieve.
Stay on this road as it passes a small piazza and then veers right and downhill, ending at the Via Gualdo Reni. Turn left here and follow the road through the Porta Fiorentina city gate, finding Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II on the right.
PONTASSIEVE 108MPOP 20,622
Central Pontassieve
In the Middle Ages, Pontassieve was called ‘Castel Sant’Angelo’ for the Florentine castle built here. The town later became known for its strategic bridge across the Sieve River, which opened to Florence the territories of Mugello and Casentino. By the 18th century Pontassieve’s location made it a regional economic hub, and in the 19th and 20th centuries the railroad made it an industrial center. Its economic importance led the Allies to bomb the town repeatedly during World War II. Although none of its medieval features remain, the town was rebuilt along its medieval lines, with winding roads that follow the contours of the riverbank. The modern town hall is built on the foundations of the original medieval castle, and Via Ghiberti, the bustling, central commercial road, connects it with the Sieve bridge as in days past. Today, Pontassieve is a hub for artisanal leather, Chianti wine, olive oil, and handmade glass and pottery.
Pilgrims receive a warm reception at Leonardo’s Rooms B&B (Via Piave 7, tel 360 923824, [email protected], €45/60/70/80. Hearty pilgrim breakfast). Also convenient is Toscani da Sempre (Via Fratelli Monzecchi 13/15, tel 558 392952, [email protected], €50/70). In the lower town, by the river, is Hotel i Villini (Viale Armando Diaz 28, tel 055 8368140, [email protected], from €40).
STAGE 2
Pontassieve to Passo della Consuma
| Start | Piazza Vittorio Emanuel II, Pontassieve |
| Finish | Main piazza, Consuma |
| Distance | 17.8km |
| Total ascent | 1021m |
| Total descent | 138m |
| Difficulty | Hard |
| Duration | 6hrs |
| Note | The sole possibility for refreshment after Pontassieve is the bar at Diacceto, so it may be wise to bring provisions for the whole day. |
A constant uphill track takes you from vineyards into the forests that will be your setting for the next five days. Today’s climb is to the top of a saddle of mountains that separate two sections of the Arno River. Although about two-thirds of today’s walk is on pavement, the often-spectacular views over vineyards and through forests to the green mountains of the Central Apennine range make this an enjoyable stage.
From Piazza Vittorio Emanuel II walk toward the Municipale and turn right onto Via Tanzini. Go under the clock tower arch and veer left as the road becomes Via Ghiberti. Note the grocery store and bakery for provisions.In 500m the road veers right and you cross the Sieve on a stout bridge. After the crossing continue along the road, passing the lovely Chiesa San Francesco on the right. One block later turn left on Via Bettini. At Via Farulla turn right and in one block come to the Via Forlivese, the main road up and down the Sieve Valley.
The view from the Ponte Mediceo bridge over the Sieve River in Pontassieve
Just across the street is the barely visible Via Tirolo. Take it uphill, first crossing a railroad bridge. You will climb uphill on this pleasant, asphalt lane for the next 2.9km, with beautiful views of the Sieve Valley and the 10th-century Castello di Nipozzano, now a prosperous winery of the historic Frescobaldi company. The asphalt road ends among olive orchards near the top of the hill at an intersection marked ‘Via di Castello Nipozzano.’
Cross the intersection onto the gravel road between two stone walls and continue uphill. In 800m cross an asphalt road and continue straight, enjoying the views of mountains and vineyards. Cross the highway in a couple hundred meters and continue uphill on the gravel vineyard road on the other side.
In 700m the vineyard road turns right toward a cemetery. Follow it 50m to the first wall of the cemetery, then turn left and follow the wall to the cemetery’s driveway. Turn left here and continue 100m to the highway. At the highway turn right, going uphill into the village of Diacceto (6km). The bar on the left side at the turnoff for Pelago is the last place for services until the end of the day’s walk.
San Pietro Ferrano is visible for several kilometers along the forested mountainside
Continue uphill 400m on the highway to the turnoff for Ferrano. Turn right here to follow this forested, quiet and fairly level asphalt road for 4.3km until it turns to gravel. Soon, dramatic vistas of the forests and mountains around Pelago become visible, and a castle-like villa and the pointed, yellow tower of Chiesa San Pietro in Ferrano can be seen to the right. (Thomas Muller, artist and priest, graciously welcomes pilgrims at Santa Maria a Feranno, Localita Ferrano Colle 68, 338 6901122, [email protected], €15 per person or €20 with linens.)
Just past the church (9.1km) a little bench offers a place for a rest and snack. About 20mins later the road turns to gravel and just afterward you come to an abandoned chapel on the right. Here you cross a bridge and just afterward on the left is the trailhead for the forested path to Consuma, signed ‘Consuma 1.45.’ Turn left and follow the gravel path, CAI 11, uphill, looking continually for the red/white painted waymarks
