when climbing at the higher levels, but fitness training is relevant to everyone, and essential if you wish to progress through the grades. Several books give advice on the best way to train, and sessions are available at climbing walls and with individual instructors. Nutritional information can be accessed through publications and via the Internet. A visit to a climbing wall during the winter months, or whenever there is an enforced lay-off due to bad weather, will help to keep your climbing fitness levels high. It is also a great way to meet people and make contacts, useful for finding partners and arranging car-shares to more distant crags.
If you are interested in taking your climbing forward, you may like to work towards a formal qualification. A very popular award in the UK is the Single Pitch Award (SPA), which trains and assesses candidates at a level of competence based on a well laid-out syllabus, and looks at personal skills as well as those needed for taking others climbing and abseiling. As there is no formal requirement in the UK for such a qualification when taking people climbing, many who go through the SPA process do so for their own personal benefit and to get themselves assessed at the national standard – a great boost to their confidence. Other countries around the world have similar schemes, and details of these can be obtained from their relevant mountaineering governing bodies.
I hope that you find the contents of this book useful. Although it covers many techniques, you will probably come across alternatives when climbing with other people. Make sure that the skills demonstrated are both safe and relevant to you and your style of climbing, and beware of ‘quick fixes’ which may appear to save time but may be either inappropriate or just downright dangerous. If in doubt, stick to what you know.
Above all – be safe and have fun.
PART 1: BASICS
Sandstone climbing on ‘Centre’, Mild VS 4b, Cummingston
1 GETTING STARTED
Understanding guidebooks and grades can be one of the most daunting aspects of going out climbing. If you can decipher ‘guidebook speak’, and have an idea of how the grading system works, you will have mastered one of the hardest parts of your day at the crag! It takes time to learn how to relate the descriptions and drawings in the guidebook to the rock in front of you, but a little time and perseverance will pay dividends.
Understanding Guidebooks
One of the joys of a good guidebook is that you can sit at home and work out in advance almost every detail of the route that you are going to climb. You’ll know where to park, how to get to the crag and how long the climb will take. There’ll be information about the different sections, which routes are where and the relevant grades. There will probably be a ‘topo’, a topographical diagram of the cliff with lines depicting the route. Descents are also regularly described when not obvious, as will key crag features such as prominent trees, rock features and the like. Most guidebooks will also contain a number of inspiring photographs, designed to make you want to rush out there and get going!
An assortment of guidebooks
A typical guidebook will cover a number of crags in a geographical area, the clue being in the title: ‘Swanage and Portland’ or ‘The Ogwen Valley’, for example. Decide where you want to go, then find a copy of the relevant guidebook in a climbing shop or via the Internet. Inside the book cover there will often be a rough sketch map of the area with the crags marked, along with any relevant towns or other features. The first few pages will contain a general description of the site, access, history and so on. The crags will then be listed, either alphabetically or grouped by location. Each chapter will detail where the crag is, how to get there and where to park, plus a bit about its character and any access issues.
The routes will be listed in a logical manner, although this section may be a little confusing at first. On a small single-pitch crag the climbs will commonly be described starting from either right or left, or perhaps from an obvious feature such as a huge oak tree in the centre. Anything else noteworthy on the crag will be mentioned, and this can help you get your bearings. For instance, there may be a large corner and a route description telling you to start ‘3 metres to the right’, leaving no doubt as to where the climb is.
Where crags have a number of buttresses, these will often be described in the sequence in which you approach them from the parking and access point. A time may be given for the walk to each section (although this tends to be very subjective). Obvious features will be mentioned, and the topos will also usually give a clue as how the sections relate to each other.
Multi-pitch crags should be looked at from a different aspect (literally). With a single-pitch route you can probably get all the information you need by standing at the bottom and looking up it. A crag with a series of long routes on it will, by definition, be high, so stop some distance from it and, using the guidebook and your own observations, pick out relevant features. Chimneys, crack lines, overhangs and similar formations should all be discernible from a distance, and you can then relate these to the description of your chosen route in the book.
Choice of Route
You will probably have decided, well before arriving at the venue, which route or routes you intend to do. An ideal route on a single-pitch crag – if one exists – will include the following features:
Ease of access.
Flat, clean base at the bottom of the climb.
Safe and suitable gearing-up area.
No mass of people queuing to get on it.
Should look appealing.
Rock will be dry and the weather lovely.
Opportunity for ground anchors.
Plenty of cracks and so on for gear placements.
Selection of good anchors at the top.
Belay position for the leader will allow good line of sight and communication with the second.
No objective danger, such as loose rocks.
Descent will be a simple walk off.
Many similarly perfect routes very near by.
Perhaps there aren’t that many routes like this around – but you will be surprised just how many of these criteria can be met at a good venue.
A lot of guidebook compilers will use a star rating, often ranging from one to three. These are only applied to those routes that, in the opinion of the author, merit special mention. Although this is a good way to highlight climbs that might be worth seeking out, bear in mind that this is the author’s idea of a good route, which may not be the same as yours. Also, a route with no stars is not necessarily a poor climb, and may suit your particular style or aspirations perfectly. Conversely, a three-star route may not impress you in the slightest. Use this system as a guideline; at the end of the day deciding what to climb will be down to you.
Note
The first ascensionist names and grades the route. The grade will usually be about right and will be accepted straight away by other climbers. However, sometimes routes have been under-
