alt="Image"/>
Getting to the route can be more exciting than the actual climbing!
2 EQUIPMENT
If you have ever strolled through a climbing shop or looked at sites on the Internet, you will be aware that there is a huge array of tantalising climbing equipment available. The trick is to buy what will be appropriate for the type of climbing you wish to do and avoid the ‘toys’ – those fancy pieces of kit that look great but have no particular use at the crag.
There are important standards for climbing equipment manufacture. The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme) has had a very sound voluntary code of practice in place for a number of years, and gear meeting their test criteria will bear a UIAA stamp. However, the PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) standards have been a legal requirement for a number of years in Europe. Equipment that satisfies this standard will be marketed with a CE (Conformité Européene) symbol. This shows that it conforms to the relevant sections of the European legislation as far as manufacturing requirements are concerned, and indicates that it can legally be sold in the European member countries.
I have listed below some items of the most important kit, and given a few pointers as to what may be appropriate where. There will inevitably be many factors to consider when buying kit, and your final choice will be largely down to personal preference.
Helmet
This is an essential piece of gear, and should be one of your first purchases. Gone are the days when helmets looked like (and weighed the same as) coal scuttles. Modern helmets are lightweight, strong and comfortable. Take a hat with you when buying a helmet to make sure that it can be adjusted sufficiently to accommodate your hat underneath it during the colder months.
Note
A helmet will not only save you from debris or gear dropped from above, it will also protect your head in the event of a fall. In addition, if you are belaying, it will prevent you from banging your head if you are pulled forward when holding a leader fall. Although a lot of magazines show pictures of climbers without helmets, any type of head injury is extremely serious, and it is not worth taking a chance with your life.
Modern helmets are lightweight and strong
Harness
There are many different types of harness available, and the final decision will often come down simply to how comfortable it feels when being worn. There are a few other points worth taking into account.
Firstly, if the harness is just going to be used for rock climbing you may decide to go for non-adjustable leg loops. This will make the harness a little lighter and less elaborate, but will preclude it from being worn if you are wearing bulky clothing, as in the winter or when a cold wind is blowing. If you want an all-round harness, suitable for rock climbing all year, go for adjustable leg loops.
Good, all-round harness
One of the most important sections will be the abseil loop, the sewn loop at the front that serves as a strong point. I wouldn’t think about buying a harness without one of these as it has so many uses. The gear-racking layout is also important, as you need to have plenty of space for equipment. I prefer to have my gear loops forwards, with two on each side, so that I can get to everything easily. Padding aids comfort, although too much tends to get in the way and can also make the harness a bit sweaty in hot weather.
Rock boots
There are probably as many types of rock boot as there are harness! As these will be worn for long periods comfort is an important issue. My advice would be not to go for the eye-wateringly tight fit that some shops will try to persuade you to buy, but for something that feels quite snug. If your boots feel firm in the shop without socks they are probably the right size, as they will stretch up to half a size after some use. Really tight boots are the preserve of those climbing at the very top levels; you can always graduate to a pair of these after a while, once you have decided which direction your climbing career is going to take.
Rock boots often come with a choice of fastenings, either laces or Velcro. The lacing system will be better at this stage, as Velcro tends to be used on very technical boots where the fit is skin-tight, meaning that little adjustment is possible.
Rope
Ropes come in a bewildering array of sizes and colours, and everyone you talk to will have their own view as to what type will be best for you to begin with. As a starting-out rope I would suggest that 50m of 10.5mm with a dry treatment would be a good all-rounder. A 60m rope would be more appropriate for climbing multi-pitch routes, but even here a 50m rope will be adequate. It needs to be designated as a ‘full-weight’ rope, denoted by a ‘1’ in a circle on the tape around the end, and also on the packaging. Thinner ropes are designated as ‘half ropes’, denoted by a ‘½’ in the circle. These must be used alongside another rope to give full strength, using techniques known as double- or twin-roping. This book covers predominantly single-rope climbing skills, and so a full-weight rope will fulfil your needs for now.
The information at the end of a climbing rope will tell you if it is the right one for you
Carrying a rope
Step 1 Starting flaking the rope by laying lap coils across your hand
Step 2 Wrap a few turns of rope around the coils
Step 3 Pull a loop through the top and place this over all the coils, pulling the ends tight
Step 4 The completed flaked rope will not kink or knot when uncoiled
This is best done by ‘flaking’. Flaking stops the rope from twisting and kinking, which does tend to happen if a rope is ‘coiled’ in the old-fashioned manner. It also enables you to carry the rope on your back, in much the same manner as a rucksack, when walking down from the top of the crag or when abseiling.
A rope carried in this way will be easy to undo when needed. Simply lift off the final loop and unwrap the coils. You can now place the whole rope on the ground and run it through hand over hand to check it for knots. If it has been flaked correctly the only thing you may find is a loop through a loop, which is easily remedied.
To carry the rope on your back, leave a couple of metres of tail. Put the rope behind you and bring the ends forward over your shoulders, around your back (over the flaked rope to keep it from swinging about) and then round to the front again. Tie the ends together with a reef knot.
A flaked rope tied to the climber’s back is easy to carry
Note
Take good care of your rope as this will extend its life. Carefully read and follow the instructions that are attached to it when bought, as these will outline cleaning procedures and give details about its lifespan, as well as other useful information. Make sure that you don’t tread on your rope, as this can cause grit
