Cam sling at normal length
Cam sling extended
Rockcentrics
These are basically a large version of a wire – but without the wire! Also referred to as chocks (and a reworking of the original ‘Hexentrics’ – still favourite with many people), the Rockcentric is available in large sizes and nicely complements our rack of wires. However, they are a slightly different shape and work well in a variety of placements.
Rockcentrics
They are frequently supplied with the tape or rope already stitched or tied in place. It is possible to buy them loose and tie them yourself, but in this case make sure you are using the correct material for the job. For instance, tying Spectra or Dyneema tape will not work as the fibres are quite slippery, and the resulting piece of gear will be very dangerous. Check with the supplier of the rope or tape you intend to use to thread the chocks to ensure that it is up to the job, also as to the best knot to use.
Rockcentrics work by a basic camming action, with the pull on the affixed tape making them jam tighter in a crack. If we have a rack of wires up to number 10, I would choose to start my Rockcentric sizing from there and go up for perhaps four sizes. You would end up with quite a large piece of gear, handy for a variety of situations and placements.
Nut key
This will be the best money you’ll ever spend! A nut key is an invaluable tool for a second to carry in order to remove wires and other gear that has become jammed in place. Normally consisting of a long flat bar with a hook at one end, a key will very soon pay for itself (and may even get you some free gear by allowing you to winkle out someone else’s kit!).
Nut key
Chalk bag
This is included here only for completeness, and hopefully you won’t be rushing out to buy one. Chalk is useful where the climbing is hard and fingers get sweaty, such as when training on an indoor climbing wall. Outside, however – unless the route is quite hard – the use of chalk should be discouraged. Chalk is slightly abrasive, which is how it aids finger friction. If used on the holds of an easy route, the hands and feet of subsequent climbers will have the effect of polishing the hold: the chalk particles work as a scourer. As more people will tend to climb easier graded routes than hard ones, and if many of them use chalk, the rock will very quickly become polished and slippery. Only use chalk on a hard route, when you are bouldering or climbing indoors.
Chalk bag, with ball and block chalk
Prusik loops
A prusik loop is a very useful piece of kit, with two being carried for more advanced techniques. It is commonly used for protecting an abseil, and can also be used in a simple hauling system to get your partner over a hard section of the climb. The loop is made up from just over 1m of 6mm accessory cord, purchased direct from the reel in a climbing shop. It is tied together with a double fisherman’s knot, and should measure about 40cm long from end to end when laid flat.
Prusik loop, tied with a double fisherman’s knot
Note
These days all technical equipment is manufactured and sold to rigorous standards. However, there is some cheap gear on the market (although not normally in reputable shops) which has been made in Eastern Europe and the Far East. This kit will often not have gone through the same processes and testing as stamped gear, and should be treated with extreme caution – or rejected altogether.
GEAR RACK
Rack of gear laid out on the ground
I have outlined a list of kit below that would be a really good rack for starting out. As far as possible I have put them in the order in which they should be purchased: buying a rope will probably be more important than getting hold of a couple of prusik loops, for example. This gear list will be ideal for routes up to VS (and probably higher).
Bear in mind that some rock types will predispose themselves to accepting different types of gear. For instance, if you are climbing on sandstone regularly you may wish to increase the number of camming devices. Conversely if you are climbing on limestone a good range of wires will possibly be of more use.
Harness
Helmet
Rock boots
Belay device
Rope (50m × 10.5mm)
HMS screwgate karabiners × 3
4ft (60cm) sling × 2
8ft (120cm) sling × 2
16ft (240cm) sling × 1
D-shape screwgates × 3
Curved wires 1–10 × 2 sets
Rockcentrics 6, 7, 8, 9
Nut key and small carrying karabiner × 1
Camming devices, flexible stem, 1, 2, 3
Extenders × 6
Snapgate karabiners: 2 for carrying wires, 4 for carrying hex’s, 12 for extenders, 4 for 4ft (60cm) slings, 3 for camming devices. Total = 25
Prusik loops × 2
Chalk bag
3 KNOTS
If there is one subject that is likely to send shivers down the spine of anyone starting out in climbing, this is it! There is a plethora of books available extolling the virtues of this one or that, often resulting in general confusion. Luckily you only need to learn a few in order to get started, and you could even get away with just a figure of eight (in all its forms) and a clove hitch. The following knots, however, are worth learning.
Figure of eight rewoven
This very important knot is the standard way of attaching yourself to your harness. It looks like an ‘8’ and so is easily recognised on both you and your partner. It should be tied so that the loop created is no bigger than the abseil loop on the front of your harness; if any larger it will be awkward to use when belaying and tying onto anchors. Once the knot is tied it should be finished off with half a double fisherman’s (see below) as a stopper knot, pushed up snug to the eight. The resulting tail should be no more than 3–10cm long.
