eight may be chosen instead. It is also used as a knot for joining abseil ropes (see Chapter 11), where it is essential that a figure of eight is not used.
Overhand knot
Lark’s-foot
This knot is sometimes used to attach a sling to an anchor. However, it is quite a weak method and there are better options available, such as simply clipping the ends of the sling together with a karabiner. A lark’s-foot is suitable when attaching a cow’s-tail to your harness when abseiling in a multi-pitch situation. It can be used to join two slings together if you are running out of karabiners, but make sure that the resulting knot is neat and looks like a reef knot (see below).
(Top) A sling lark’s-footed around an anchor, not a very strong way to belay and not recommended
(Bottom) Joining two slings with a double lark’s-foot
Reef knot
This is a useful knot for a couple of reasons. Firstly, it is handy if you are wrapping the flaked rope behind you in order to carry it like a rucksack, as it is a good way to tie the ends off in front of you. Secondly, it is a handy knot to use inside a double fisherman’s when joining two abseil ropes together, as it stops the knots from jamming together and becoming difficult to untie. If you remember the phrase ‘right over left, left over right’ you will end up with the correct knot each time. The ‘left’ and ‘right’ relate to the tails of the rope.
Reef knot
PART 2: SKILLS
‘Eclair de lune’, 5+, Gorbio, Maritime Alps
4 TYING ON
In this section we will look at a number of basic yet essential skills which must be mastered before attempting to climb.
How to tie onto the end of the rope, obviously important for both the leader and second.
Different ways of tying onto one or more anchors.
How to use a sling to bring two or three anchors down to one point, often useful in a multi-pitch climbing situation, or when fixing up a system such as a bottom rope (see Chapters 12 and 13).
Tying onto Your Harness
Being able to tie onto your harness effectively and securely is pivotal to being safe whilst climbing. It is amazing how often you see people on the crags with sloppy knots or tied onto the wrong point and so incorrectly connected to what is, in every sense of the word, their safety line.
Usually, you and your partner will need to be tied onto your harnesses. This not only gives a very strong attachment to the rope, it also provides a point from which the belay device can be operated, and a position to which any anchor ropes can be connected. The figure of eight rewoven will be the usual choice (although the bowline can also be used). The only drawback of the latter is that the stopper knot is on the inside radius of the loop created by tying in, and can get in the way of subsequent connections.
Note
Don’t let anyone disturb you for the few seconds it takes to tie onto the end of the rope, whether you are leading, seconding, top- or bottom-roping (see Chapters 9, 10 and 13). Being passed a piece of gear, for example, is distracting; it’s easy to forget to finish the knot properly and to leave it half-tied. If someone calls you or hands you some gear when tying in, tell them to wait for a moment and complete the job properly.
A WORD OF WARNING
Clipping into the abseil loop with a karabiner will work if you are going to be top- or bottom-roping over a short distance, but it should never be used as a method of attachment to the rope when leading. If a fall occurred and the karabiner slipped sideways, the rope could run over the gate at the point of loading, greatly reducing the karabiner’s strength. If you do choose to clip into the rope with a screwgate for top- or bottom-roping, some manufacturers sensibly recommend two screwgate karabiners are used, clipped so that the gates open in opposition to each other. A figure of eight knot on the end of the rope would be the best one to use.
(Left) Clipped onto the rope using two screwgates back to back. Do not use this method of attachment for leading routes.
(Right) Tied on with a figure of eight rewoven and half a double fisherman’s stopper knot
It is important that the correct section of the harness is threaded, normally the same line as taken by the abseil loop. Some harness designs – particularly those made for group use – have a single flat-loop attachment point, and the rope will be tied around this. Check in the instruction booklet that came with your harness to ensure that you are threading the rope around the correct sections.
Once tied, the resulting loop should be no bigger than the abseil loop, or a little smaller than fist size. Any larger and subsequent attachments will be awkward to complete and there may be problems with belaying. Any smaller and there won’t be enough room for any subsequent connections to be tied on or clipped in.
Tying onto Anchors with the Rope
There are a number of methods of securing the belayer to one or more anchors. Not understanding how this process works – and how vital it is – risks putting the climber in real danger. Efficiently tying onto an anchor is relevant whether belaying from the top or the bottom of a cliff, and the process for both is the same.
To get to this point, make sure you know how to tie a clove hitch and a figure of eight on the bight. Remember that a clove hitch is only of use if you can reach the karabiner into which it is clipped. If the anchor karabiner is much more than an arm’s length away it’s better to use a figure of eight on the bight.
One anchor point within reach
As the screwgate karabiner to which you will be attaching yourself is easily within reach, you can clip into this with a clove hitch. The clove hitch is very adjustable, but will lock off under load.
A clove hitch tying-on system
1 The hitch is tied onto the rope coming from the tie-in point on your harness.
2 Clip it in and then adjust it so that the rope between you and the anchor is tight.
3 Make sure that you end up seated not too close to the edge of the cliff but where you can see and communicate with your climbing partner effectively.
One anchor point out of reach
