A map of southwest England reveals a complex and convoluted coastline between Minehead, in Somerset, and Poole harbour, in Dorset. The crinkly coast adds up to a considerable distance, and where numerous ascents and descents have also to be negotiated, requires a lot of effort to complete. This is no beach walk, but often involves steep paths over rugged cliffs, tight zigzag paths and innumerable steps. Walkers often cross deep, steep-sided, wooded ravines, which separate remote and rocky headlands, and there are also extensive areas of dunes and pebbly storm beaches. Of course, there are also plenty of villages tucked into hidden coves, along with a number of bustling seaside resorts and even a major city. This is an immensely rich and varied coastline with an intensely absorbing history and heritage.
The South West Coast Path was opened in stages between 1973 and 1978, though from the outset the South West Coast Path Association has lobbied tirelessly for improvements, so there are mini openings of short stretches to this day. The route starts at Minehead and traverses Exmoor National Park, then along the rest of its length there are designated areas of outstanding natural beauty, heritage coasts and two extensive world heritage sites. Many stretches of the coast are owned by the National Trust, or preserved as national nature reserves. With this level of protection, it simply has to be good, and no other stretch of English coast enjoys so much attention.
Obviously, walkers who wish to complete the South West Coast Path in one fell swoop will have to walk every day for six or seven weeks. The alternative is to complete it over a period of time, one or two weeks at a stretch.
Bear in mind that while all facilities are in full swing in the summer months, accommodation options are drastically reduced in the winter, and some of the ferries that provide essential links along the route may be withdrawn. Careful planning is the key to success along this trail, but even at the height of summer, when there is most pressure on facilities, tourist information centres work exceptionally hard to find accommodation for those who need it. If you choose to camp, you don’t really need to carry cooking equipment, as this is a trail where there are shops and cafés at regular intervals.
DAY 1 MINEHEAD TO PORLOCK WEIR 15KM (9½ MILES)
The long journey starts at a monument on the promenade at Minehead, then unexpectedly heads uphill and inland, well away from the coast. Walk across North Hill and Selworthy Beacon, climbing as high as 290m (950ft) to enjoy views over Exmoor National Park. There is a ‘Rugged Alternative Coast Path’ signposted, which runs closer to the sea, is rather more arduous, but very scenic. It links with the main coast path later on Bossington Hill above Hurlstone Point. Views stretch along the coast to Foreland Point and across the Bristol Channel to south Wales.
The route originally traversed a shingle ridge from Bossington to Porlock Weir, but this was breached during a storm in 1996 and walkers must now wander through fields and marshes behind the ridge. Porlock and Porlock Weir provide well for walkers, though both villages appear quite early in the day. Stronger walkers could continue to Lynmouth or Lynton, but at the risk of burning themselves out too early in this long trek. Better to take things easy, settle into a sustainable pace and aim for a successful completion in due course.
DAY 2 PORLOCK WEIR TO LYNMOUTH 20KM (12½ MILES)
Start on the Worthy Combe Toll Road, then follow paths and tracks through woods to reach Culbone church. A choice of routes is available: either walk on a wooded slope close to the sea, or follow paths and farm tracks at a higher level, until both routes meet again on Sugarloaf Hill. Shortly afterwards, in remarkably mixed woodlands, there is access to County Gate and Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre. Somerset gives way to Devon and the coast path finally leaves the woods and traverses a steep and rugged slope on the way to Foreland Point, which is the most northerly point in Devon.
Don’t be drawn off-route to the lighthouse, but turn Foreland Point and stay high on the coast path. There is easy access to the tiny village of Countisbury, which has a pub, but most walkers will be happy to start the descent towards Lynmouth. If you have organised accommodation here, it is a good idea to know exactly where you are heading. Lynmouth, naturally, is down by the sea, while Lynton is stacked high up a steep and wooded slope. A cliff lift links both places. Note the Lynmouth Flood Memorial Centre, recalling the devastating floods of August 1952, which resulted in the deaths of 34 people. Also note, after covering the distance from Porlock to Lynmouth, that in January 1899 the Lynmouth lifeboat had to be towed the same distance, in the other direction, during a storm, before it could be launched to aid the stricken vessel Forrest Hall off Hurlstone Point.
DAY 3 LYNMOUTH TO COMBE MARTIN 21KM (13 MILES)
After climbing high above Lynmouth, walkers follow a fine path across a steep slope and suddenly reach the Valley of the Rocks. Amazingly complex rocky outcrops have delighted visitors for decades, so expect the place to be busy. Walk down the road to Lee Abbey, then follow a path across an exceedingly steep and wooded slope at Woody Bay. The precarious ‘hanging’ oak woods, a refuge for red deer, are preserved as a nature reserve. Cross Hollow Brook at a little waterfall, then turn round Highveer Point to enter a deep and steep-sided valley at Heddon’s Mouth. There is access inland to the popular Hunter’s Inn.
Castle Rock rises high above the sea as the coast path heads into the Valley of the Rocks
After climbing steeply from Heddon’s Mouth the coast path makes its way towards Holdstone Down, where it suddenly drops into another steep-sided valley at Sherrycombe. The climb uphill leads to the summit of the Great Hangman, which at 318m (1043ft) is the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path. Enjoy the views inland to Exmoor National Park, as the park is left behind on the descent from the Little Hangman to Combe Martin. The village proclaims itself to be the second longest village in England, which begs the question, which is the longest village in England?
DAY 4 COMBE MARTIN TO WOOLACOMBE 20KM (12½ MILES)
Take care following the complex and convoluted coast path from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe, or you could find yourself walking round Widmouth Head, which is not part of the route. There is a bird’s-eye view of Ilfracombe on the descent from Hillsborough. St Nicholas’ Church on Lantern Hill dates from the 14th century, but the town largely developed as a 19th-century resort following the arrival of the railway, now long closed.
Use the popular Torrs Walk to leave the town, looking to see how it has been hacked from the bedrock in places as it works its way round the cliffs. On the descent to Lee Bay a detour could include Lee village, just inland. A fine stretch of cliff coast continues to Bull Point and its lighthouse, then later there is a marked change of direction while turning round Morte Point. The little resort of Woolacombe, which developed from a farming settlement, is reached, with its most notable feature – a broad, golden, sandy surfers’ beach.
DAY 5 WOOLACOMBE TO BRAUNTON 25KM (15½ MILES)
Walkers who have found the first few days of the South West Coast Path a struggle will be pleased to enjoy a much easier walk today. While it is possible to walk the length of Woolacombe Sands, the route actually stays onshore among scrubby dunes. Leaving Putsborough Sands, a low-lying cliff coast is followed around Baggy Point to Croyde Bay. Another popular golden strand is passed, then the route climbs above a busy coastal road and cuts across Saunton Down to reach the village of Saunton. Walkers who are struggling, or looking for opportunities to short cut, will be sorely tempted
