and attractive little headlands and coves. The Rocky Valley is particularly scenic, but most walkers will find themselves looking ahead to spot legendary Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head, reputed to be the birthplace of King Arthur. The promontory has at least 2000 years of history behind it, and is undoubtedly a splendid strategic site, reached by crossing a footbridge over a crumbling neck of land. The castle has been in ruins since the 16th century. Nearby Tintagel youth hostel also enjoys a fine setting close to the cliff edge.
Slate quarrying has cut into the cliffs over the past five centuries, and broken cast-off slates are incorporated into the zigzag-patterned ‘curzyway’ drystone walls and embankments that surround nearby fields. After dropping down to Trebarwith Strand and its pub, note that there are no refreshments until distant Port Isaac, and the coast path includes strenuous ascents and descents. Port Gaverne and Port Isaac are villages that have gradually turned from fishing to tourism, but fishing still continues and the day’s catch can be inspected in an odd-shaped building beside the little beach.
Attractive Rocky Valley is passed on the way from Boscastle Harbour to Tintagel Head
DAY 12 PORT ISAAC TO PADSTOW 19KM (12 MILES)
Shortly after leaving Port Isaac, a steep-sided little valley is crossed at Pine Haven, then the coast path runs from Varley Head to Kellan Head to reach Port Quin. A tiny settlement stands at the head of the narrow inlet, then a splendid stretch of undulating coast path hugs the low cliffs all the way round Port Quin Bay and Carnweather Point. A complete circuit is made around Pentire Point, then Padstow Bay and the tidal River Camel have to be negotiated. Follow the coast path around Polzeath, then trudge along soft and sandy paths around little Brea Hill.
A ferry runs from Rock to Padstow all year, except winter Sundays, and the nearest bridge is far inland at Wadebridge. Always check ferry crossings in advance around the South West Coast Path, taking particular note when several need to be used in quick succession later on the long trail. Padstow’s narrow streets are full of charm, and often full of tourists too. Spend the evening exploring if staying here. St Petroc’s Church dates from the 6th century. Sir Walter Raleigh lived at the Court House when he was Warden of Cornwall, while Prideaux Place is a fine Elizabethan manor house.
Mother Ivey’s Bay, with its golden sandy beach and distant lifeboat station
DAY 13 PADSTOW TO PORTHCOTHAN PORTHCOTHAN 22KM (13½ MILES)
Fine headlands and sandy bays are passed one after another during this day’s walk. The coast path from Padstow passes a sandy beach at Harbour Cove, then turns round Stepper Point to leave Padstow Bay. Pass the deep crater of Pepper Hole and walk round the rocky cove of Butter Hole. The little villages of Trevone and Harlyn offer refreshments, and if you reach the latter at high water, you may have to take a break and wait for the water to recede before you continue along the beach. Mother Ivey’s Bay is wonderfully scenic, with its low cliffs and lumpy outcrops rising from the golden strand. A lifeboat station is located at the far end of the bay, but the coast path detours inland before that point, passing a lighthouse on Trevose Head. Booby’s Bay and Constantine Bay feature golden sands, then lots of little headlands are passed before the route reaches Porthcothan.
DAY 14 PORTHCOTHAN TO NEWQUAY 18KM (11½ MILES)
The low cliffs beyond Porthcothan are broken by the narrow inlet of Porth Mear, and the scenery is lovely throughout. All of a sudden, after turning round Park Head, popular Bedruthan Steps are reached and there are likely to be a lot of people around. The beach is studded with a series of huge and highly individual rock stacks, named, from north to south: Diggory’s Island, Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Rock, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island. Enjoy wonderful views before walking round Trenance Point to reach the villages of Trenance and Mawgan Porth.
A climb to Berryl’s Point leads back onto the cliffs, where the next break occurs at Watergate Bay – there is a huddle of hotels here. Keep walking along the cliffs to reach Trevelgue Head, which is actually an island connected to the Cornish coast by a footbridge. The coast path negotiates the suburbs of Newquay, which sit high on the cliffs, then after a walk through the town centre the harbour is reached. The original settlement here was called Towanblistra, where a ‘new quay’ was built in the 16th century. The town developed as a cargo port with a thriving fishing trade, with tourism becoming important following the arrival of the railway. Newquay’s ‘surf scene’ has grown from nothing to assume great importance to the town in recent years.
DAY 15 NEWQUAY TO PERRANPORTH 17KM (10½ MILES)
A couple of little headlands are visited on the way out of Newquay, then the long and narrow tidal inlet of the Gannel is reached. At low water there is a tidal footbridge, while at high water a ferry runs from the Fern Pit Café. If neither of these is available, it’s a long walk round to Crantock. The coast path turns grassy Pentire Point West and passes a little sandy inlet at Porth Joke. Kelsey Head gives way to a beach walk round Holywell Bay, where the village of Holywell offers refreshments. The path passes the Penhale army training area, where it is essential to follow the route exactly as marked. Beyond Ligger Point, most walkers will stroll along the sands of Perran Beach, but the coast path actually crosses the steep slope above the beach. Either way, the busy little resort of Perranporth is reached at the battered rocky headland of Droskyn Point.
A razor-edged ridge is passed at Ralph’s Cupboard on the way out of Portreath (Day 17)
DAY 16 PERRANPORTH TO PORTREATH 20KM (12½ MILES)
Bustling Perranporth is left behind as the coast path continues along bleak and rugged cliffs, passing old mine shafts, crumbling engine houses and gaunt chimneys. Around St Agnes there was once a thriving mining area, and anyone wishing to know more about the industry should visit the Blue Hills Tin Streams. Exhibits show how tin ore was crushed, washed and smelted. Because of its past industry, this area, together with other places along the coast to St Just, has been designated a world heritage site. After passing Trevaunance Cove, where the old harbour has been destroyed by storms, the trail runs round rugged St Agnes Head and later drops down to Chapel Porth. Paths climbing direct from this point are dangerous, so head inland as signposted and pick up the cliff path to Porthtowan. Walk from the Unicorn to the Beach Hotel to get back onto the cliffs, and pass a landmark flue chimney. Walk beside an extensive MOD property on Nancekuke Common until diverted onto a road at Lighthouse Hill. Walk down into Portreath, whose little harbour is made of stout stonework.
DAY 17 PORTREATH TO ST IVES 29KM (18 MILES)
The cliff scenery beyond Portreath is remarkable, especially around Ralph’s Cupboard, where there is an impressive razor-edged cliff. There are several short and steep ascents and descents along the Carvannel Downs and Reskajeague Downs, then the coast path runs close to a road. Deadman’s Cove and Hell’s Mouth sound fraught with danger, then the trail pulls away from the road to go round Navax Point and Godrevy Point. Godrevy Island is crowned with a lighthouse. The rough and rocky part of the day is over, and the rest is easy, though it is still a long way to St Ives.
At low water a broad strand sweeps round St Ives Bay, and most will be happy to walk along it. The coast path actually weaves about among the extensive dunes of the Towans, which takes longer to negotiate. The tidal mouth of the River Hayle cannot be forded and there is no ferry, so walkers either follow roads to Lelant, or sneak onto a bus or train to avoid the traffic. An intricate coast path runs from Lelant to Carbis
