huts on the slopes of Mont Vèlen and the Grand Combin, while the western side of the valley is largely snow-free and much lower than its neighbour. Here the Combe de l’A makes a long inroad into the mountains and offers a way over a col at its head into the upper reaches of the Val Ferret.
Val Ferret
Traversed by walkers tackling the Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB), the Val Ferret is a distinctly pastoral valley that lies on the outer edge of the Mont Blanc massif. Several small villages and hamlets inhabit the valley, but these mostly disregard the needs of visitors. Only La Fouly, which gazes into a cirque topped by Mont Dolent and the Tour Noir, devotes itself to walkers and climbers, and it is well worth seeking out for there are some splendid walks and views to enjoy. Like the Vals d’Entremont and Bagnes, the valley is reached from Martigny via Sembrancher. The St Bernard Express (a very slow train despite its name) continues as far as Orsières, where the Vals Ferret and d’Entremont part company. Just out of Orsières a road breaks away to climb in numerous hairpins to Champex, a delightful, small but attractive resort also visited by trekkers on the TMB. With the unspoilt Val d’Arpette behind it, Champex is another worthwhile base for a few days of a walking holiday.
Vallée du Trient
This, the most westerly of the region’s valleys, lies to the southwest of Martigny, by which it is reached across the Col de Forclaz. A very short, glacier-carved glen, Trient is its only village (discounting neighbouring Le Peuty, which is just a hamlet), but being on the route of both the Tour of Mont Blanc and the Walker’s Haute Route it has a disproportionate amount of accommodation almost entirely aimed at the outdoor fraternity. The village looks up to glaciers that hang from abrupt rocky slopes, the view framed by dark pinewoods. It’s an appealing sight, and the various walks on offer make the most of such views. One of the recommended routes climbs easily to the French border at Col de Balme, where an unforgettable scene reveals the Aiguilles Verte and Drus, and the massive snow dome of Mont Blanc shining in the distance. As Alpine connoisseur RLG Irving once wrote: ‘If that view does not thrill you, you are better away from the Alps.’
Getting there
By air
Readers are warned that information about air travel is especially vulnerable to change. Even without mentioning a host of different fare structures, schedules are frequently rearranged, routes introduced and cancelled, airlines go out of business and others are formed year by year to increase competition. Information given below can, therefore, be offered only as a rough guide. The best advice is to either visit your local travel agent for current offers or browse the Internet. In any case, shop around.
Switzerland’s main international airports are at Geneva and Zürich, both of which are just an escalator ride from a mainline railway station. Bern and Basel are also used, but by a smaller number of flights, and involve bus transfers to the nearest stations. Geneva is the most convenient airport for a visit to the Valais, with a direct rail link to all main Rhône valley stations.
Daily scheduled flights are operated by British Airways from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Geneva and Zürich. BA flies direct from Manchester to Zürich and, six times a week, to Geneva. Less convenient for visitors to the Valais, BA also flies between Heathrow and Basel. For travellers from Ireland, BA has a service from Dublin to Geneva via Gatwick (www.britishairways.com).
SWISS (the national carrier formed after the collapse of Swissair) at present offers 42 daily scheduled departures from London Heathrow, London City, Birmingham, Manchester and the Channel Islands to Geneva, Zürich and Basel (Tel 0845 607 3000, www.swiss.com).
Swisswings Airlines (a Swiss regional carrier) operates a daily service between London City and Bern.
Currently by far the cheapest scheduled flights are by Easyjet, which operates between London Gatwick and Geneva and Zürich, Luton and Zürich, and also Liverpool to Geneva (www.easyjet.com).
Several airlines fly from North America to Geneva and/or Zürich, with departures from Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York and Washington. Check with www.travelocity.com or www.expedia.com for the latest fares.
By rail
By a combination of Eurostar (London St Pancras to Paris via the Channel Tunnel) and TGV (Paris to Geneva or Lausanne) high-speed rail travel offers an alternative to flying, although the overall cost may be no less than an air fare. Assuming connections are made, the journey time from London to Geneva or Lausanne can be as little as 8 hours, although you should allow for 12 hours or so to reach your final destination.
At least 14 Eurostar trains per day travel between St Pancras and the Gare du Nord in Paris, the journey time being around 3 hours. In Paris transfer to the Gare de Lyon for the TGV departure to either Geneva or Lausanne – there’s a choice of several trains each day and the journey time is around 4–4½ hours (timings vary from season to season).
For up-to-date rail information contact Rail Europe (Tel 08705 848 848, www.raileurope.com).
By road
If planning to drive to Switzerland, remember that French motorways are toll roads, and that a special sticker (Vignette) must be purchased for travel on the Swiss motorway system. This is available at border crossings, or in advance from the Switzerland Travel Centre, 10th Floor, 10 Wardour St., London W1D 6QF (Tel 00800 100 200 30, [email protected], www.MySwitzerland.com). The minimum age to drive in Switzerland is 18, and both UK and North American drivers’ licences are accepted.
BAGGAGE TRANSFER
When flying you can take advantage of a unique ‘Fly Rail Baggage’ scheme which enables you to check in your baggage at the departure airport, and on arrival in Switzerland it will be transported directly to the railway station of your chosen resort. There’s no waiting at the arrival airport’s carousel or hustling your baggage from plane to train. The system is straightforward, safe and convenient, and also works on the homeward journey. But you pay for each item of luggage transferred. When booking your flight, ask for details.
Note: Only ‘Nothing to Declare’ baggage can be included in this scheme, which is not available on Go or EasyJet airlines, or for British Airways passengers with ‘E’ tickets.
Transport within the Valais
Switzerland’s extensive public transport system is second to none. It is truly integrated, famously efficient, clean, punctual and of great value to the walker. Schedules are dovetailed not only between different train operators but also to concide with bus services. In short, travel by public transport in Switzerland is a pleasure, not a frustration.
A main-line railway runs the length of the Rhône valley providing fast and frequent links with other parts of the country. From Visp a branch line (the BVZ) extends through the Mattertal to Zermatt; from Martigny the St Bernard Express serves Sembrancher, Le Châble (Val de Bagnes), Orsières, and the Val d’Entremont; while further north, in Val d’Illiez below the Dents du Midi, a branch line runs from Monthey to Champery.
For access to the Lötschental, a rail link is provided by the Brig–Kandersteg line via Goppenstein, from where a connecting postbus ferries Lötschental-bound passengers into the valley proper.
