Walking in the Valais. Kev Reynolds

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      The yellow postbus travels practically everywhere there’s a motorable road, and is as predictably punctual as the rail system. In village centres the main bus stop will be outside the Post Office (PTT). Elsewhere the postbus calls at railway stations and main points of habitation, but the PTT Haltestelle sign is also seen at strategic locations such as a junction of valleys or where there’s access to a popular walk.

      Various incentives are available to holiday makers to encourage use of either the railways or postbus services. These are outlined below, and can be purchased in the UK from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London (Tel 00800 100 200 30, [email protected], www.MySwitzerland.com; further information is available at www.rail.ch/sts).

      Swiss Pass: This entitles the holder to unlimited travel by postbus, rail and lake ferry for periods of 4, 8, 15 and 22 days, or a month. Discounts are also given on most forms of mountain transport.

      Swiss Youth Pass: Advantages are the same as for the Swiss Pass, but young people under the age of 26 can obtain the Swiss Youth Pass at a discount of 25 per cent.

      Swiss Flexi Pass: Similar to the above, except that the Flexi Pass is valid for 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 days within a month.

      Swiss Half-Fare Card: Valid for one month, the card allows unlimited purchase of train, bus, boat and some cablecar tickets at half price.

      Swiss Transfer Ticket: The STT is useful for visitors planning to stay in a single base. It is valid for a period of one month and gives one free round-trip to any destination in Switzerland. The trip can start at any Swiss airport or border, and each leg of the trip must be completed on the same day. Holders of the Swiss Transfer Ticket can also claim discounts on most mountain lift systems.

      Swiss Card: An extended version of the Swiss Transfer Ticket, the Swiss Card gives the holder a 50 per cent discount on all further train, bus or boat travel.

      Swiss Travel System Family Card: Children under 16 years of age travel free if accompanied by at least one parent in possession of a Swiss Card, Swiss Pass or Flexi Pass. Non-family members between 6 and 16 years old receive a 50 per cent discount. The Family Card is available free of charge from the Switzerland Travel Centre in London.

      Regionalpass Oberwallis: Within the Oberwallis region (the German-speaking part of the canton), this 7-day pass gives 3 days free travel – simply enter the days of your choice on the pass – and reductions of 50 and 25 per cent on the other 4 days. The Regional Pass can be obtained from all public transport stations and tourist offices in the Oberwallis.

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      Gspon, above the Saastal’s entrance, with the Bietschhorn as a backdrop (Walk 16)

      A wide range of accommodation is available within the area covered by this guidebook, from the most basic campsite to the ultimate in hotel luxury. Outline details are given within the main body of this guide, but for specific information you are advised to contact the local tourist offices, which can usually supply printed lists of facilities, addresses and prices (tourist office contact details are given in the introductory section of each valley covered in the guide). It is perhaps worth stressing that good accommodation may not be as expensive as imagined. Prices are often more modest than the official star-rating might suggest.

      Official campsites

      Most of the region’s valleys have official campsites. Some of these are rather basic, although the majority have first-class toilet and washing blocks, and some boast laundry facilities and drying rooms. Do not assume that the larger the resort, the better the campsite, for the converse is often true! Note that off-site camping in Switzerland is officially forbidden. Annual lists of camping and caravan sites are published by the Touring Club of Switzerland (www.tcs.ch) and the Swiss Camping Association (www.campingswiss.ch). Another website which lists campsites throughout the country is www.campingnet.ch, while the Switzerland Travel Centre will send a camping guide to the Valais on request.

      Youth hostels

      Swiss Youth Hostels (Auberge de Jeunesse Suisse or Schweizer Jugendherbergen) provide reasonably priced accommodation, are affiliated to Hostelling International, and are open to all young people holding a current membership card. Small dormitories and family rooms are generally available. For a current list visit www.youthhostel.ch or contact Schweizer Jugendherbergen, Schaffhauserstr. 14, Postfach, CH-8042 Zürich.

      Gîtes d’étape

      In many respects a gîte d’étape is like a private youth hostel, with modestly priced dormitory accommodation, communal washrooms and, usually, meals provided. Almost exclusively aimed at walkers and trekkers, a few of these establishments exist within the area covered by this guide. Again, contact the local tourist office for specific addresses.

      Dortoirs/Matratzenlager

      Several Valaisian hotels provide low-cost communal dormitories in addition to standard bedrooms. Some have traditional two-tier bunk beds, others merely a supply of mattresses on the floor of a large room. Enquire at the local tourist office.

      Bed and Breakfast

      Similar to bed and breakfast establishments in the UK, private rooms (Chambres d’hôtes or Gästezimmer) are located in a number of villages and resorts throughout the Valais, and their details are usually available from the local tourist office. An annual booklet listing those in the Valais region is published in Sierre. Write to: Chambres d’hôtes VS13, Cathy Renggli, Route des Liddes 12, CH-3960 Sierre ([email protected], www.homestay.ch or www.bnb.ch).

      Mountain huts

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      A cosy atmosphere is created in the dining room of the Burg Hut (Walk 1)

      Since the majority of mountain huts (refuge, cabane, hütte) are located in spectacular surroundings, they usually provide a memorable experience for the first-time user. Although primarily intended as an overnight base for climbers, a number of Valaisian huts are accessible to walkers. Mostly owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, but open to all, mixed-sex dormitories are the norm for sleeping accommodation (take your own sheet sleeping bag) and washing facilities can be primitive, but where a guardian (hut keeper) is in residence for the summer, meals and refreshments are usually available. Basic details are given in the main section of this book, but further information is available at www.sac-cas.ch, which provides a list.

      As a number of routes contained in this guide visit mountain huts, a note on hut etiquette may be useful for newcomers intending to stay. Upon arrival remove your boots and change into a pair of special hut shoes (clogs or slippers) found on racks in the boot room or porch. Locate the guardian to book sleeping space for the night and any meals required. Meal times are usually fixed, and a choice of menu is sometimes, but not always, available. Payment should be made in cash the night before your departure. Although you will be allocated a place in a dormitory, access to it may not be possible until the evening. Since the room may be unlit, keep your headtorch

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