Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps. Bill O'Connor

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short or the ascent of a particular peak too demanding. With a little care it is always possible to alter the route to suit your needs and the prevailing conditions to ensure the safest route.

      If you decide not to follow the route exactly as described in the guide, you may be tempted to follow an existing ski track not yet filled in by fresh or windblown snow. Before following it, however, be in no doubt that the track is leading where you want to go. Many a skier has followed a trail carelessly only to arrive at the wrong col or summit! As a skier you have the option of making fresh tracks, both in ascent and descent, especially if the track in place takes a bad line or climbs inefficiently. It is satisfying to look back at a well-made track and know it is your own. On the descent, if too many tracks have trashed a fine slope it may be possible to make new ones, thus giving you the satisfaction of looking back at a set of cleanly carved turns – or not. Of course there is wisdom in following an established track through difficult terrain, say on a crevassed glacier or after heavy snowfall.

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      Planning before setting off on tour

      Maps and Diagrams

      Accompanying each route description is a route profile, a diagram giving a clear indication of the ups and downs involved in each day's touring. Combined with the sketch map and description this should provide a useful impression of the rhythm of the day's stage.

      The sketch maps of each tour will allow you to plan your route in conjunction with the route description and the recommended 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 maps. The sketch maps indicate cols, glaciers and significant spot heights mentioned in the text. They are not intended as a substitute for the recommended maps. They provide an indication of the route only.

      For each tour a particular map or set of maps is recommended. Unfortunately several of the tours require numerous maps. Ideally use those at 1:25,000 scale. The Swiss, in conjunction with their National Ski Federation, have produced special ski maps at 1:50,000 scale. These have ski routes marked and also have a wealth of information about routes printed on the back of the map. These are very useful. For general planning 1:100,000 scale maps are recommended. Although useless for navigation, unless you are in a car, they are ideal for plotting the route and getting a feeling for the areas surrounding a given tour.

      Huts and Other Useful Contacts

      A list of addresses and telephone numbers for each tour, including the telephone numbers of the Alpine huts mentioned in the route, is given in Appendix 3. Specific details about huts have been included in the tour description where necessary. Also given at the end of each tour is contact information for tourist offices, police, rescue services and weather information.

      Always take time to consider the weather conditions, not just on the day you start but over the days and weeks before your tour. They will have an effect on the snowpack and your safety. The snowpack will, in turn, affect the difficulty of the route, the time a stage takes and the dangers that exist. No guidebook can cover all the variables. The descriptions are based on known routes done in stable conditions. Just occasionally conditions for a tour will be idyllic: perfect snow, few crevasses and a track in place, all of which will make for a direct route and a fast time. Much more likely is a varied mix of good and unskiable snow, blue sky and bad visibility, as well as easy or complex crevasse systems to negotiate. The key is to expect the unexpected and allow yourself time to deal with problems.

      Remember, if you can't see the slope ahead, be it an icefall, cliff, couloir or valley, it is all but impossible to make an informed judgement about the dangers you face or to ski it safely. In these conditions the best option may well be to stay put in the hut, read a book or practise a few rope skills nearby.

      Times and Conditions

      The time given in the guide for any particular stage is an average one for a party of reasonably fit skiers moving steadily and climbing at around 300m per hour. Where appropriate they provide generous timings, rather than assuming a fast pace. The times given cannot take into account problems arising from poor fitness, skiing ability, navigation or conditions. In the unlikely event that any of these apply to your party you will need to adjust the tour accordingly.

      If you arrive at the Alps tired after travelling, and with no acclimatisation, the first few days may well feel tough. If you haven't toured for a year your equipment may feel unfamiliar – and like your legs might not work very well! As a friend of mine says: ‘Don't let your enthusiasm make appointments your legs and lungs can't keep!’

      Once on tour most skiers find they acclimatise quickly and become more efficient and familiar with their kit. It takes a while to fall into the delightful rhythm of skinning, carrying a rucksack and, of course, hut life. After a while you are likely to find that the times given in the guide seem more generous. However, that's as it should be. Remember, having time in hand means having a safety margin should problems arise.

      By late spring, when the days lengthen, it is normal to arrive back at the huts in the early afternoon with plenty of daylight left. It can feel as if half the day has been wasted. In fact it is often the case that the snow by then is too soft or dangerous for enjoyable skiing. You can always spend the afternoon doing a transceiver search or crevasse rescue.

      Remember, weather and snow can change rapidly on tour. A slope on which a party an hour or so ahead of you were able to make perfect linked turns may have become a nightmare by the time you come to descend it. It pays to plan ahead and think about slope aspect, weather conditions and timing.

      Start Times

      These vary throughout the season for the same route and will depend on a mixture of things: touring objective, party fitness, snow, weather conditions and, of course, the whim of the hut guardian. Most Alpine huts have a set breakfast period during the ski-touring season. Find this out from the guardian on arrival at the hut and plan accordingly. If you want to leave early let the guardian know. If you are lucky he might put a flask and some food out for you. On popular tours like the Haute Route you will invariably be involved in a massed start in the morning, which is all but impossible to avoid. Once underway in the morning groups quickly disperse, invariably coming together at bottlenecks such as steep climbs or abseil descents. If you want to get away quickly in the morning you need to get packed and organised the night before and get down to breakfast quickly!

      Route-Finding and Navigation

      It goes without saying that a 1:25,000 scale map, compass and altimeter, and the ability to use them, are essential for accurate navigation when ski touring. More and more skiers are using a Global Positioning System (GPS), and many maps provide a useful table of GPS co-ordinates to help plot waymarks quickly. Of course all maps have a grid system. Whatever tools you have, make sure you are skilful in using them. It is also advisable to spend time studying the map – mental rehearsal combined with map memory is a great benefit once skiing.

      Altimeter

      When skiing it is unusual to be able follow a direct compass bearing. Occasionally, on a well-covered glacier such as the Grosser Aletsch, it is possible, but normally crevasses have to be avoided and turns are essential. An altimeter when skiing is an indispensable piece of equipment for accurate navigation in poor visibility. Wristwatch-style altimeters that can be worn outside a jacket are particularly useful. They can be referred to whilst on the move without loss of time or rhythm. Trying to gauge your speed of descent when skiing in poor visibility is all but impossible. An altimeter will save the day and give your altitude, if not your exact position, on a particular slope. In addition, they act as a barometer, indicating pressure variation and therefore potential changes in the weather.

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