Global Positioning Systems are increasingly being used by skiers. They are not a substitute for good navigation, which is as much about good judgement and route choice as simply about knowing where you are. However, when combined with sound navigational skill they are very useful, and very reassuring in white-out conditions.
Drying out boots and skins on the terrace of the Konkordia Hut
The Alpine Hut System
One of the benefits of skiing in the Alps is the extensive chain of mountain huts available there. The building of huts began early in the history of Alpinism, and they serve us well. Above all they make it possible to enjoy extensive ski touring without the need to carry heavy camping, cooking and sleeping equipment, and food; the combined weight of which, for a long tour, would make touring unbearable, if not impossible, for many skiers. Alpine Huts have been built and are owned by various national Alpine clubs – namely the Swiss Alpine Club (CAS), French Alpine Club (CAF), Italian Alpine Club (CAI), Austrian Alpine Club (AAV) and German Alpine Club (DAV). Non-Alpine countries have contributed financially to some. There are also a growing number of private huts.
The huts are open to everyone, and usually offer mixed dormitory-style accommodation. Members of an Alpine club or organisations affiliated to the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations) may have reciprocal rights giving them discounted bed-nights at most huts. Non-members simply pay a little more. The huts currently represent very good value for money. Most huts are open during the main season, usually mid-March until the end of April or May, during which time a hut warden is resident who provides meals and advice.
There are huts and then there are bivi huts – just remember to close the door when you leave
Winter Rooms
Not all huts are open or guarded during the ski season. Those that are not usually have a ‘winter-room’ that is left open. This is usually quite a small space, with bunks and blankets, a stove and wood for fuel, although a few have gas stoves and a limited supply of utensils. They can have a great atmosphere, although most are pretty cold. To be on the safe side, I normally carry a stove and fuel when I'm using winter rooms, just in case I arrive at the end of a busy period and the fuel has run out.
Payment in Unguarded Huts
There is an honesty-box system for payment. Envelopes and a safe-box will be found on the wall inside the hut – fill in your details on the envelope and deposit your money in it inside the safe-box.
Hut Etiquette
If you use the winter room, remember to leave it tidy, fold all blankets and close all shutters and doors. There's nothing more depressing after a hard day's touring than to find the doors or windows open and the winter room full of snow and the blankets wet. If you decide to leave food for others to use, make sure it's sealed; don't leave half-used scraps that can go rotten. I've certainly been grateful in the past to find spare tea bags or packet of soup powder available.
Booking the Huts
It is recommended that you book your place at the hut in advance; this allows the guardian to plan meals and accommodation properly and thus avoid gross overcrowding. Failure to do so can make for watery soup and worse! Guardians make a great effort to find everyone a place; you will rarely be turned away. However, some huts get very busy during the holidays, particularly over Easter on the more famous haute routes. If you change your plans, let the guardian know so that your place can be made available to others. Guardians, if they are expecting you, may also be concerned about your non-arrival if you have failed to cancel your booking. Many skiers also phone ahead let the guardian know they are on their way. Most huts have radio-telephones, which you can use.
Meals
Many huts offer a near restaurant-style service throughout the day, although both the breakfast and evening meal are normally set menus. Food at huts is not discounted to members of any Alpine club. Vegetarians should make a point of informing the guardian before (or when) they arrive at the hut as meat is the norm. Vegetarian options are limited – eggs, cheese and pasta head the list. Breakfast remains light in most huts, some say slight. It is certainly traditional: tea, coffee or hot chocolate with bread, butter, jam and sometimes a little cheese. A few huts have improved their breakfast offering by providing cereal and yoghurt.
Most huts sell sweets, chocolates and a small selection of food items. Some will provide a simple packed lunch. However, if you need a packed lunch be sure to order it the night before and not during the morning rush.
Some huts allow self-catering, but you normally have to provide (which means carry) your own stove, fuel and utensils. Guardians will also cook simple food such as pasta and soup for you, charging a fee to do so. Understandably, they don't always like doing it, especially if the hut is crowded.
Water
Water is an obvious problem during the ski season. There is plenty of snow and ice, but hopefully it will remain frozen, which means that running water will be in short supply. Hut water supplies have to be melted from snow and ice, or in some cases helicoptered to the huts. It comes as a surprise to many hut users that water has to be paid for, and that during the ski season very few have running water for washing or lavatories. Be prepared to buy bottled water or to have hot water or tea in your drinking bottle in the morning. Some guardians fill water bottles the evening before so that they can cool before morning. It's not uncommon to see them being taken to bed to serve as a hot-water bottle!
Basic Advice for Hut Virgins
For the first-time visitor a busy Alpine hut can seem a bit daunting. However, once you have stayed in one and survived the system you will quickly get the hang of it. The organisation of the huts is basically the same through-out the Alps, although there are a few guardians who introduce idiosyncratic and novel variations.
Arriving at the Martin Busch Hut having traversed from the Hochwildehaus, Ötztal
Boot room
When you arrive, there is usually an ante-room to leave boots and rucksacks, skis and hardware such as axe and crampons. Try, if you are part of a large group, to keep your equipment organised and in one place. The same goes for ski boots – in the early hours of the morning it's easy to have a mix-up and find someone else wearing your plastic shells. It's a good idea to write your name on the plastic shell to help prevent mistakes. Most huts supply some kind of rubber hut shoe for you to use, but that's not always the case.
Book in on arrival
Once you have got your boots off, go to reception and book in officially. You will be asked to show (and perhaps deposit) your Alpine Club or reciprocal-rights card, if you have one. This is the time to let the guardian know if you are a vegetarian, and for you to ask about meal times and filling water bottles. Tell him your plans for the morning. At this time you will probably be given a room and bed number/slot.
Sleeping quarters
Some huts have bunks, and others have a matrazenlager – usually mattresses laid side by side on large bunk beds. Close-quarter sleeping is usually the order of the day. At busy times, expect to double up! You will normally get a pillow and a couple of rough wool blankets – of an uncertain age but
