is surprisingly hard to find. Whether camping or self-catering, make sure that you are happy with the driving times to the canyons you plan to do. Note that the lakeside campsites are likely to be full in peak season. See Appendix C for details of campsites in the area.
The most useful websites for self-catering accommodation are that of the Comunità Montana Valli dell’Ossola (www.cmvo.it/UnDormire.asp), Ossolaland (www.ossolaland.com) and the Lake District tourist information (www.distrettolaghi.it). Local tourist offices (see Appendix D) may also be able to help.
PRACTICALITIES
Shops and services
While most settlements along principal roads have at least basic amenities, the major shops, banks and supermarkets can be found in and around Domodossola. The biggest supermarket is just off the SS33, near the Bognanco turn-off.
Gear shops
There are a few gear shops in the area. Surprisingly, given the popularity of canyoning in the area, none have much in the way of canyoning equipment. The options (at the time of writing) are
Mosoni Sport on the northern fringes of Domodossola, on the main road that runs through town (Via Giovanni XXIII 74, tel +39 0324 242879, www.mosonisport.it).
Sport Extreme in Domodossola, en route to Bognanco from the SS33 (Via Nosera, tel +39 0324 248390, www.sportextrem.it)
Decontecno in Crodo (tel +39 0324 618888, www.decontecno.it)
Sportway, in Parco Commerciali Laghi, just outside Gravellona-Toce (tel +39 0323 865206, www.sportway.net).
Hospitals
The only hospitals in the area are in Domodossola, Verbania and Brig.
Weather forecast
The weather forecast for the area can be found on the Italian-language ARPA website (www.arpa.piemonte.it), but many people use the Meteo Swiss website (www.meteoswiss.ch) because of the reliability of Swiss weather forecasting. Longer range forecasts can be obtained from 3B Meteo (www.3bmeteo.com) and Il Meteo (www.ilmeteo.it).
Maps
Both IGC and IGM (official Italian mapping), as well as Kompass, produce maps that cover the whole area at 1:50,000. The Swiss Survey 1:50,000 maps cover the area in just two sheets and are more detailed and reliable. Some 1:25,000 maps are available from IGM and Edizioni Multigraphic, but coverage and availability are currently limited.
Practicalities in Switzerland (Routes 1 and 2)
There is a simple campsite, Camping Tropic, just off the road into Brig (between Termen and Ried-Brig). A larger campsite with swimming pool (Camping Geschina) can be found a little closer to Brig. Brig itself is a large town with a range of facilities, including banks, hotels, train station, tourist information and a hospital.
TRAVEL AND TRANSPORT
Rail
The train line from Milan traverses Val d’Ossola on its way to Brig in Switzerland. The slower ‘Regionale’ trains stop in a number of small towns en route, including Mergozzo and Varzo. A small scenic train connects Domodossola and Locarno via Val Vigezzo, stopping at numerous places along the way, including Santa Maria Maggiore and Craveggia (where there are campsites). Details from www.centovalli.ch. Car hire is not available in the area.
The clear green waters of Variola Superiore (Route 4) (photo: Simon Flower)
Driving
Val d’Ossola is linked to Milan by the A26 motorway. North of Gravellona-Toce it becomes the SS33, a dual carriageway free of toll booths, which in turn becomes a single-lane highway at Domodossola. Junctions off the SS33 are not always straightforward. An exit possible in one direction is not always possible in the other. Describing directions is therefore not always easy.
OTHER ACTIVITIES
Although Val d’Ossola lacks the crowd-pulling scenery found elsewhere in the Alps, there is still plenty here to attract walkers. The region is home to two surprisingly little-visited protected parks which have a wild, rugged beauty. Visitors could also venture onto the lofty peaks along the Swiss border. A stroll in the forested hillsides has a charm, the slopes strewn with tumbledown hamlets, or baite, usually miles from any road and only sparsely inhabited at best. Some houses are used as summer retreats, while others are falling into disrepair. Many appear to be getting a new lease of life as ambitious building projects of wealthy city dwellers.
PROTECTED AREAS
Parco Regionale Alpe Véglia e Alpe Dévero (www.parcovegliadevero.it)
Parco Nazionale Val Grande (www.parcovalgrande.it)
For those looking for more action, try the Schmugglerweg near Gondo or the pricey Via Ferrata Gabi-Simplon a little further west (see Appendix B). Alternatively, head for the local crags. The main climbing guidebook to the area is Ossola e Valesia – Sportive e Moderne (available from the publishers direct at www.versantesud.it or through local gear shops). Some route information is also available online – try www.ossolaclimbing.org, www.planetmountain.com or the ‘logbooks’ page of www.UKclimbing.com.
Finally, it’s worth wandering down to the tourist information office to find out about the frequent festivals that spring up all over the valley throughout the summer months.
ROUTE 1: MASSASCHLUCT
MASSASCHLUCT
| Rock | Gneiss |
| Dimensions | Depth 480m (1290m–810m); length 3500m |
| Ideal season | Early summer to autumn |
| Location | Switzerland |
| Time | Approach
|
