Canyoning in the Alps. Simon Flower
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First-aid kit (and mobile phone)
A first-aid kit should include pain-relief medication, gaffer tape and a survival bag as a minimum. A small splint such as a SAM splint is highly recommended. If going to north-east Italy, take fine-tipped tweezers or a specialist tick-removing tool (see the introduction to ‘The Belluno and Friuli Dolomites’ for details). Mobile phones may work in some canyons.
Choosing ropes
There are a number of points to consider.
Number and length
The route summary table (Appendix A) will help in choosing the length of rope needed.
Note that with repeated wet–dry cycles a rope can shrink by ten per cent of its original length, sometimes more. It is advisable to soak and dry the rope a few times, then measure it again before using it. Bear in mind that pitch lengths quoted in this guide assume a pre-shrunk rope. Best practice is to carry a spare rope, so that the canyon can be completed safely if a rope is lost.
Dynamic versus static/semi-static
Semi-static ropes are most suited to canyoning, offering far greater control when abseiling and prusiking. They are dangerous for lead-climbing, but if this need arises (for example, if a rope gets stuck) tying three or more knots next to the harness will increase the dynamic nature of the rope a little.
Colour
Ropes of differing colours would be an advantage to aid with untwisting them before pulling through.
The final encased section in Fogarè Inferiore (Route 62 in the Belluno Dolomites)
Diameter
The diameter affects the weight and durability of the rope. Thick ropes (>10mm) have a longer life span, but are heavy when wet and take up more space in bags. On the other hand, the bounce on thin ropes is greater, thus increasing the sawing action over sharp edges – beware!
Flotability
A few manufacturers produce special canyoning ropes that float, with obvious advantages. However, they are made of polypropylene rather than polyamide, which takes less punishment before breaking. Polypropylene melts at about 160°C and must therefore be used wet.
Choosing your descender
For the lack of a perfect device, the figure-of-8 is most often used by our European neighbours. It is cheap, lightweight, provides a smooth abseil and can be used with single or double ropes. For canyoning a figure-of-8 is better threaded differently to the usual method (see photo). This alternative method enables the device to be kept on the karabiner at all times and therefore reduces the very real risk of it being dropped while loading or unloading ropes.
The figure-of-8: canyoning set-up
The figure-of-8: extra braking
The Petzl Pirana (see photo), designed especially for canyoning, eliminates this risk altogether. It also prevents cross-loading an open screw-gate, a potentially fatal side effect of normal figure-of-8 usage. The rope runs quicker in the canyoning set-up, although there are several methods for increasing friction, such as putting in an extra twist or running a loop back through a karabiner clipped to the harness.
The most significant drawback of figure-of-8 use is that it twists the rope. At the least this can cause problems with rope retrieval, particularly if double-rope technique is used. On longer abseils it can cause a great nest of rope to bunch up beneath the device, making further descent impossible if not noticed in time.
Common alternatives to a figure-of-8 are a rack, a bobbin device and a standard belay device. None of these cause rope twisting, but all have their own drawbacks.
Racks
A rack is heavy and pendulous, time-consuming to rig and very difficult to release in turbulent water. Double ropes can be used, but may jam if previously twisted by figure-of-8 use. Racks are not recommended for aquatic canyons.
Bobbin devices
Bobbin devices give a horrible jerky descent in inexperienced hands (bounce = sawing action) and can’t be used with double ropes. Bobbin devices with an automatic brake (such as the Petzl Stop) provide the most control over any device, but require two hands to operate – not always easy in high water.
Belay devices
Standard belay devices are cheap, lightweight and can be used with double ropes, but controlling speed is difficult and they are easily lost when unloading them in turbulent pools. Belay devices are not recommended for canyoning at all.
In addition to these is the Kong Hydrobot, another specialist canyoning descender, currently unavailable in UK high streets. It is essentially a single-barred rack – much less cumbersome than a standard rack and certainly much easier to rig and release. A central bar keeps double ropes separate, reducing the chances of jamming if twisted. However, it is dangerously slick when used with new or small-diameter single ropes, and applying extra friction or stopping mid-descent is not at all easy or reliable. Use the Hydrobot with caution.
The Petzl Stop, Kong Hydrobot and Petzl Pirana (photo: Simon Flower)
Canyon safety – precautions and pre-trip preparations
To help prevent accidents, and prepare for their eventuality, consider the following points.
Before leaving home
Take out rescue insurance and know how to summon a rescue if needed.
Learn some first aid, ideally with a wilderness slant – rescue can be a long way off.
Get a European Health Insurance Card.
Soak, dry, then remeasure your rope – it could shrink by 10 per cent of its original length.
Familiarise yourself with canyoning risks and techniques, and have the correct equipment.
Keep an eye on the weather a couple of weeks prior to your trip.
Before going canyoning
Familiarise yourself with the route, making a note of specific hazards and escape points. Take a photo of the route in the guidebook, if taking a digital camera into the canyon.
Know where the nearest hospital is.
Leave a call-out, and make sure the person with your call-out knows what to do if you are overdue.
Know your team well and limit party size on long