gradually dissolves over time to form a number of characteristic landforms, including caves, dissected plateaus and deep slot canyons.
The regions and their rock types
The canyons of Val d’Ossola, Ticino and the north-western shores of Lake Como are for the most part formed in gneiss, a highly metamorphic rock of the Penninic nappes. At extremes of temperature and pressure within the Earth’s interior, minerals of a similar type within the parent rock (here mainly granite) have migrated and aligned together. This gives the rock a beautiful decorative quality with swirls and bands of different colours, polished smooth by the action of glaciers and flowing water. These canyons are often sporting, with deep green pools and gently sculpted waterfalls ideal for jumps and toboggans.
Impressive limestone scenery in Rio Simon (Route 85 in the Julian Alps)
The area around Lake Como is geologically complex, and gneiss is only one of a number of rock types in the area. Valtellina, a broad valley extending east from the northern tip of the lake, is part of a long fault line – a weak point in the Earth’s crust – that runs east–west across the Alps. The fault, known as the Insubric Line, marks the boundary between the Italian and European plates. This weakness has allowed liquid magma to ascend from beneath, cooling slowly within the Earth’s crust to form coarse-grained rocks such as granite and diorite. These have been exposed in a number of places along the fault, creating some of the youngest mountains in the Alps. Among these is Piz Badile, a granite peak on the Swiss border, where a couple of canyons reside. Although granite is hard it erodes quickly on account of its grainy structure, leaving well-rounded canyons open to sunlight.
Just east of Piz Badile is Piz Bernina, one of the most celebrated mountaineering peaks in the eastern Alps. Its southern slopes are formed of a distinct grouping of rocks that includes basalt, gabbro and serpentinite. These rocky assemblages are common throughout the Alps. Termed ‘ophiolites’ in the early 19th century (a word derived from the Greek for snake-stone), it would be another 100 years before their significance was understood. They are now believed to be fragments of the ancient ocean crust, scraped off as they dipped beneath the advancing Italian plate. Serpentinite, derived from the deepest layer, is the most significant from a canyoner’s perspective. It has a mottled greenish tinge and waxy polished surfaces similar to soapstone (to which it is closely related). Serpentinite canyons are extremely rare. Perhaps the best known is Cormor on the flanks of Piz Bernina, famous for its sculpted cave-like passages, almost totally devoid of light. There is nowhere else in Europe like it.
To the south of the Insubric Line, from Lake Como to Slovenia, lie the Southern Limestone Alps, home to the limestone areas described in this guide. All limestone (and dolomite) in the Alps originated in the ancient seas that once separated Italy and Europe. It is formed from calcium-rich minerals mainly derived from the shells of marine organisms laid down throughout the Mesozoic Era (the ‘Age of the Dinosaurs’ – around 65–250 million years ago). Owing to the solubility of limestone in rainwater, limestone canyons tend to be narrow, twisting and deeply encased, resembling cave passages open to sunlight. Like their subterranean counterparts, karst features such as stalactites, flowstone and rock arches are common. Distinct bands are often visible on the canyon walls, each representing a different age of limestone formation, although the banding is now rarely horizontal owing to folding and buckling of the Earth’s crust. Older layers underlie more recent ones, and a descent through a limestone canyon may take you through several million years of Earth’s history.
Weather and when to go
Water levels in a canyon are a reflection of weather conditions (chiefly rain, snow and temperature) over the preceding weeks to months. Ideally, it would be possible to plan a holiday when water levels are sensible (or not so sensible, depending on your persuasion) during periods of fine, settled weather. Unfortunately, predicting both water levels and the likelihood of having good weather is difficult, as the weather conditions in any given month differ dramatically from one year to the next. For example, a snowy winter or a wet spring will mean water levels remain elevated in summer, even if the summer is hot and stable. In other years, the spring months will be dry and canyoning perfectly feasible. Recommending when to visit is therefore a little tricky, and the advice given here must be taken with a degree of caution.
In general, the summer months (mid-July to mid-September) are the best time for canyoning in the Italian Alps and Ticino. Days are frequently sunny and periods of prolonged rain unusual. August is the hottest month – often rising to 30°C in the middle of the day – and the cool mountain streams make very welcome retreats. However, this is the peak month for Italian tourism – accommodation is expensive and harder to find, and certain canyons can get busy with groups (although this is much less a problem than in southern France or Spain). Afternoon storms, the canyoner’s nemesis, are also a feature of the Alps in the summer months. This is especially true in northern Italy and Ticino, where the warm, moist air of the Mediterranean meets the cool air of the mountains. More than at any other time of year, it is essential to check the weather forecasts (details given in each chapter) and monitor the sky for signs of cloud build-up.
Bouldery going in Massaschluct (Route 1 in the Valais Alps)
As the summer wears on, water levels usually decrease. Days cool off a little and the crowds go home. Good weather can stretch into October, although tourist facilities start to close down. Without the heat, any rain that falls tends to augment the rivers for much longer, and on the higher slopes it may fall as snow. Although certain canyons may remain feasible into autumn, canyoning in winter conditions is an entirely different sport. Rivers freeze over and narrow passages become choked with snow. Different skills and equipment are needed, such as ice axes, crampons and specialist clothing. It is not within the scope of this guidebook to describe canyon descents at this time of year. Nevertheless, it is a sport gaining in popularity.
Spring is generally too wet for alpine canyoning. Long periods of rain can render all descents impossible, and the canyons draining the higher slopes become swollen with melt-water. Additionally, dangerous pockets of snow can persist in sun-deprived canyons until early summer.
Visiting in early summer is a possibility. June, for example, is often a pleasant time in the Alps. The heat isn’t as intense, the mountains are lush green and there are far fewer tourists around. Rainy days may be more frequent, but certain descents remain feasible or even preferable, depending on your level of expertise and thirst for challenge. Ticino in particular enjoys a slightly longer season than the rest on account of its many hydroelectric installations, which act to moderate the flow of water (see the Ticino chapter for details). Be warned, however – the more aquatic canyons will be very dangerous at this time of year.
Getting there
By air
The Val d’Ossola, Lake Como and Ticino areas are all within a 90-minute drive of Milan. The plethora of cheap flights to Milan’s airports makes it the first choice destination. These are, from west to east – Malpensa, Linate and Orio al Serio (in Bergamo). Malpensa airport is best for Val d’Ossola and Ticino, but there isn’t a great deal in it, and there are also trains from Geneva airport to Domodossola. For the Dolomites, flying to Venice Marco Polo or Treviso are generally better options, as Milan is a three- to four-hour drive away. For Carnia and the Julian Alps, which are further east still, Trieste and Klagenfurt serve as well as the Venice airports. Zurich airport is also convenient for the Ticino area, being about a two-hour drive or train journey away.
By train
All areas are well served by rail (see individual chapters for details). Useful websites are www.raileurope.co.uk and
