submerged branches and boulders
the two strands of rope may twist around each other into a friction knot, making the rope difficult to pull down.
Using single-rope technique in Pontirone Inferiore (Route 29 in the Ticino region)
Using a guide-line to steer clear of the current during a ‘wet run’ in Cormor (Route 49 in the Lake Como region)
Although double-rope technique has its place, single-rope technique is infinitely more suited to canyoning. The main advantage is that the rope length can be ‘set’ to the length of the pitch. Where pitch length is uncertain, the first person can be put on belay using one of the releasable rigs described below. They can then be lowered if the rope turns out to be too short (communicating this need may have to be through pre-agreed shouts, whistle blasts or hand gestures). The remainder of the rope, still in the bag, can either be brought down by the next person, zip-lined down the abseil rope or (if sensible to do so) thrown down to waiting team mates. The two ends of the rope can now be kept well clear of each other, ensuring a trouble-free pull-through.
Another advantage of single-rope technique is that it is easier to steer the course of an otherwise aquatic abseil by means of deviations (where the abseil rope is clipped into intermediate anchors) and guided abseils (a taut line secured between the top and base of a pitch, into which abseiling canyoners can clip their cow’s tails).
The main disadvantage of single-rope technique is the risk of rope damage. Single ropes stretch and bounce more than double ropes, increasing the sawing action over sharp edges. If sharp edges are anticipated, the options are to:
run the rope over a tackle-sac secured to the rigging above (a method which is effective only if the rub-point is near the pitch-head)
pay out/take in rope between abseils to vary the position of the rub-point
use double-rope technique.
Releasable rigs
Although they are more time-consuming to rig, releasable systems should be used when possible in technical canyons. If a team mate gets strung up mid-rope (for example if hair, a glove or wetsuit gets caught in the descender), they can be quickly lowered out of danger.
Methods include
an indirect belay (very quick and simple)
a direct belay (an Italian hitch is often used)
the figure-of-8 block.
The figure-of-8 block works well (see photos 1 to 6 for how to tie one) and is the technique most commonly used on the continent. With the other two methods, the last person down needs to convert the belay to a non-releasable system.
The figure-of-8 block
1 Thread the figure-of-8.
2 Cross the rope (important: not doing so may result in the device being difficult to undo when loaded).
3 Pass a bight of rope up through the large ring
4 Pull the loop down and 5 pass it over the small ring.
6 Pull everything tight. To prevent people abseiling on the wrong end, a quick-draw could be clipped between the small ring of the figure-of-8 and the anchor (do not use an ordinary karabiner for this purpose – it will be difficult to undo under load).
A clove hitch and locking karabiner (top) and a stopper-knot crabbed to the live rope (bottom)
Non-releasable rigs
a clove hitch and locking karabiner (see photo) (important: ensure that the knot lies away from the gate and that the gate is locked – a twist-lock karabiner is recommended here), and
a stopper-knot crabbed to the live rope (see photo). This may be safer in the absence of a twist-lock karabiner, but the knot can be difficult to undo. Also, the rope can be more difficult to pull through from an oblique angle.
All these systems are fairly bulky and have the potential to jam when pulling through. If this is anticipated the last person down can remove the knot or figure-of-8 device, then either use double-rope technique or have the live rope counterweighted by team mates waiting below (the ‘fireman’s belay’).
Whichever method is used, the last person to descend should be confident that the rope will pull-through.
A FEW TIPS FOR ROPE MANAGEMENT
Pack the rope so that you can get easily at both ends in the tackle-sac. This will be useful when tying two ropes together or rigging traverses.
Flake the rope into the tackle-sac rather than coiling it. A three-person approach will speed things up – one to pull down, one to hold the bag open, one to pack.
While a number of knots are suitable for joining ropes together, a double overhand knot (see photo) is quick, simple, safe and easy to undo after loading. It is also asymmetrical, reducing the chances of it jamming. Tie two neatly laid overhand knots very close to each other, with a 30cm tail. Warning Do not use a figure-of-8 knot in this situation. It rolls back on itself, and those with short tails can completely undo at loads as low as 50kg.
At intermediate ledges on multi-pitch abseils, thread the pull-down rope through the next anchor before pulling-through. This limits the chances of the rope getting dropped down the pitch.
A double overhand knot – a quick and effective method of attaching two ropes together (photo: Simon Flower)
ABSEILING INTO TURBULENT PLUNGE POOLS
If abseiling into turbulent plunge-pools, take the following steps to reduce the risks of entanglement and other problems.
Do not tie stopper-knots in the end of the rope.
Do not use prusik loops or shunts to control the rate of descent.
Consider zip-lining tackle-sacs down the abseil rope, rather than abseiling with them.
Try to release the rope from your abseil device before entering the water or, if this is not possible, swim away into calmer water first.
If you anticipate submersion, taking three or four deep breaths beforehand will increase the time you can hold your breath.
Those standing by at the bottom should have a throw-rope ready to pull people out of danger.
Equipment and
