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Spiced apple pie with cream – and why not after all that effort?
You may not be able to get the type of accommodation you prefer close to the start or finish of each of the touring routes in this guidebook. Consequently, you may have to curtail your day before the end of a route, ride further into the next route or ride off the route and return the next day. For instance, the touring routes through the northeastern fells end at Troutbeck, where there are some B&Bs and a campsite. But if your preference is for hostels you would need to end your day earlier at Patterdale or Glenridding hostels, ride into the next stage and stay at the hostels at Scales, Keswick or Heskett Newmarket, or perhaps even make a detour to Penrith if everywhere else is full.
There may be lots of hostels, but there are also lots of hostellers, so it pays to book early. Hostels are always busy during the summer months and those in the more popular locations and along the route of the Coast to Coast (C2C) cycleway can be full at weekends, even in the depths of winter. The Youth Hostel Association – www.yha.org.uk – has a number of hostels in the Lake District and there is an increasing number of independent hostels – see www.independenthostelguide.co.uk or similar for lists. There is also a growing number of camping barns, but you would need to carry a three-season sleeping bag as they typically only provide a mattress. Some barns lack cooking facilities and others have no electricity, so it is imperative to check the facilities of every barn before you book.
Many of Visit England’s star-graded B&Bs, guest houses and hotels have enrolled with ‘Cyclists Welcome’ scheme and these are worth seeking out. Properties with the accreditation have drying facilities and bike storage and offer other services. Whatever you choose, if you want to arrive early to drop off your bike and go sightseeing or anticipate arriving later due to an unforeseen delay, it is only courteous to ring ahead and let them know. You should also remember that accommodation is in short supply and in the peak season even campsites can get full, so it is advisable to make a reservation as far ahead as possible. See Appendix B for a list of accommodation options.
What type of bike?
Both touring routes and day rides can be ridden on any type of bicycle as there are no off-road sections that require a mountain bike. Routes follow quieter, secondary roads wherever possible. But as the region has a limited road network, main roads are used occasionally and you do need to be confident cycling alongside moving traffic.
Without wanting to offend the fans of tandems, tricycles, and folding and recumbent cycles, there are broadly three types of bike and all are suitable for the routes in this book. However, there are some things that you can do to make your rides more comfortable.
Road bikes
Touring bikes are usually made out of steel and have a longer frame than a normal road bike. This makes them springy and allows you to stretch out more. But there is nothing wrong with using a road bike for touring and all you really need to do is add a rack and fit the widest tyres that your wheel rims and frame clearance will allow. Most ‘roadies’ ride on 23mm tyres but moving up 25mm or 28mm tyres will give that extra bit of comfort and leave you less prone to punctures.
If your bike does not have threaded braze-ons, you will need to use a rack that clamps on to an alloy seat post. This is entirely adequate for lightweight ‘credit card’ touring. But if you are riding a bike with a carbon frame, you are probably best to try to go ultra-lightweight and limit yourself to frame bags or a single rack bag. And don’t even think about clamping a rack to a carbon seat post. Buy a cheap alloy one instead.
Hybrid or city bikes
The only difference between road bikes and city bikes is normally the quality of the fittings and that most city bikes have flat handlebars. So in addition to fitting wider tyres, many people fit bar ends or even butterfly bars to give more choice in resting tired hands.
Mountain bikes
It is also worth considering fitting bar ends or butterfly bars to a mountain bike – and if your bike has full suspension you may need to fit the type of rack that clamps on to the seat tube. You might want to consider changing the knobbly tyres for lower profile urban tyres, which have less rolling resistance giving a far quieter ride. Locking off the suspension will also waste less energy when riding on good tarmac roads.
An obligatory cake stop in Great Langdale (Stage 5A and Route 2)
Preparing your bike
It is not a good idea to buy a new bike immediately before setting out on a touring holiday as new brake and gear cables will undoubtedly stretch and require fine tuning and you need time to become accustomed to the bike. You will be riding for extended periods of time, so it is very important that you adjust the bike to your size. The saddle is at the right height when there is still a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of the stroke. The way to check this is to place your heel flat on the pedal when it is at the bottom of the stroke and set the saddle height to this. Then when you put your foot on the pedal in a normal riding position with the ball of the foot centred on the pedal you should find your leg is still slightly bent. The handlebars should be level with, or just below, the height of your saddle but try a couple of positions until you feel comfortable. Riding for long periods can result in cramps in the hand, so consider adding bar-ends to flat handlebars and changing hand positions frequently. Having padded bars and cycling gloves with gel inserts in the palms all add to comfort, but remember to take each hand off the bars from time to time to flex and stretch the fingers too. One of the commonest aches suffered by riding for long periods of time is across the shoulders and occasionally in the lower back. The best way to prevent these is to pay attention to your posture, try to keep your upper body relaxed and to ride with your arms slightly flexed rather than locked on to the handlebars.
Laden for an autumn tour complete with a heavy DSLR, lenses and a tripod – since replaced by a light mirror-less camera
Unless the gears on your bike are suitable for the terrain you will be riding, you will find yourself struggling up any hills. It is always better to have a low gear in reserve than a high gear you never use and typically this means having a cassette with the largest sprocket having virtually the same number of teeth as the smallest chain ring – say a 28 or 30 tooth sprocket with a 34 or 36 tooth chain ring. However, if you explain where you are going to the folk at your local bike shop and tell them about the biggest climb you are likely to encounter, they will be able to fit the gears you need.
It is always advisable to have your bike serviced a couple of weeks before your trip, allowing sufficient time for any worn parts to be replaced and run-in before your departure. Some people will have the knowledge and tools to do this themselves; otherwise your local bike shop will be happy to do this for you.
Wheels should run smoothly and show no signs of dishing or buckling. Check to see if there is any side-to-side play in the hubs or any missing or slack spokes.
Tyres should be in good condition with plenty of tread left on them and no signs of weathering or weaknesses in the walls. They should also be inflated to the pressure recommended by the manufacturer as the less rubber there is in contact with the road, the easier it will be to pedal. You should also remember that the Lake District is not just stone walls. Hawthorn is common in roadside hedges in the farmlands on the periphery of the national park and from midsummer onwards roads can
