if you are a European citizen, carry a European Health Insurance Card, which will allow at least some of the cost of treatments to be recovered.
The island's wildlife should cause few problems. Mosquitoes remain, and, while irritating at times, they carry no harmful diseases. There are snakes, although these will usually slip away when disturbed and will not bite unless cornered or handled. Honeybees will react aggressively towards anyone getting too close to hives, so give a wide berth to any hives you might see.
Flocks of sheep are often guarded by large white dogs that bark menacingly when approached. These are related to Pyrenean sheepdogs, and work unsupervised by man. They are extremely loyal to their flocks, living and travelling full-time with them. These dogs are not dangerous, provided that they are treated properly. Do nothing to alarm the sheep, as the dogs will interpret this as a threat and will react accordingly. Do not threaten the dogs by shouting or waving arms or sticks. If a dog approaches you, stand absolutely still and keep calm and quiet. The dog is simply trying to identify whether you are a ‘threat', and while it may bark, it will not attack without provocation. Once the dog is satisfied that you pose no threat, it will return to the flock. Do not attempt to pet, feed or distract it in any way. It is a working dog whose first responsibility is to the flock it guards.
Sheepdogs often guard flocks, and it is important not to aggravate or threaten them
Travel insurance can be useful, but check the wording of the policy, since some might class mountain walking in Sardinia as a ‘hazardous pursuit'. Mountain rescue is available and is provided free of charge (see ‘Emergencies', page 32).
Food and Drink
Surprisingly, for a large Mediterranean island, Sardinia is not noted for seafood. However, sea urchins, or ricci, are firm favourites around Cagliari, and fish are featuring more and more on menus. The reason for the dearth of seafood is historical. The cliff coast lacked natural harbours in many places, and accessible stretches of coast were subject to pirate attacks. As the coast was also malarial, settlers gravitated inland towards the mountains.
Cows, sheep and goats provide meat, and most of their milk is used for a variety of cheeses. Ricottas, provolas and pecorinos are Sardinian specialities. Arborea, an old name for Sardinia, is the brand name for local cow's milk. Pigs are widespread, often free range, and a roast suckling pig forms the centrepiece of parties around the island. Pork is used in salamis, hams and other products. Wild boars, rarely seen by walkers, are hunted in the forests. Horse-meat occasionally features on menus. Vegetarians will struggle to find a variety of meat-free items on menus.
Sardinian meals have courses named in the same way as Italian meals, and while some foodstuffs are instantly recognisable, others may be unfamiliar. Anything that is currently in season will be described as stagione. Local wines are derived from cannonau grapes, while the name of the local weak beer, Ichnusa, harks back to an ancient name for the island of Sardinia, meaning ‘footprint'.
Appetisers, or antipasta, often include crispy, poppadum-like pane carasau, along with a mixed plate of hams, salamis, pecorino and olives. A thicker crisp-bread, pistoccu, is likely to be served if the first course is a broth. Dip the bread into the broth, or into olive oil containing tomato, garlic and basil, to soften it.
The first course, primi, commonly includes ravioli-like culurgionis, containing pecorino and potato. Also popular is malloreddus (often likened to gnocchi, but different), commonly served with sausage and tomato sauce. Spaghetti is also frequently on the menu.
The secondi, or main course, is usually spit-roast meat or offal, served on a wooden platter with perhaps no more accompaniment than a scattering of herbs, a little salad or a few fava beans. It could be pig-, goat-, or horse-meat, or even a lamb's head, in which case the brains provide the greatest nourishment!
For dolci, or dessert, large ravioli-like, deep-fried, sweet sebadas may be produced. A selection of small cakes or biscuits will usually contain almonds. Ricotta may be served. Coffee may be served at the close of a meal, but, more importantly, highly alcoholic grappa or mirto may be offered. As they say in Sardinia, ‘no mirto, no party', and it would be an insult to refuse it!
A good track, flanked by cistus bushes, enters a forest and gradually climbs uphill (Walk 28)
The author enjoyed a particularly fine, typically Sardinian meal at the Sant' Efisio restaurant near Lotzoraì, www.hotel-santefisio.com, located close to several of the walking routes in this guidebook.
Language
Italian is widely spoken and understood around Sardinia, but bear in mind that the native island language, Sard, which is quite distinct from Italian, is also widely spoken. Sard comes in many dialects, which vary remarkably from place to place around the island. Common place-names on maps are in Sard (see Appendix 2 for a glossary of topographical terms) and vary widely in spelling, depending on the dialect. English is often spoken by people working in popular tourist locations and large hotels, but is rarely spoken in rural and mountainous areas of the island. A few basic Italian phrases go a long way (see Appendix 2), and in most places people are remarkably patient while dealing with visitors whose command of the language is limited.
Money Matters
The Euro is the currency of Sardinia. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and the €100 notes if you can. The rest – €50, €20, €10 and €5 – are the most useful. Coins come in €2 and €1. Small denomination coins come in values of 50c, 20c, 10c, 5c, 2c and 1c. Banks and/or ATMs are often available even in remote mountain villages. Many accommodation providers will accept major credit and debit cards, but be ready to pay cash just in case they don't.
Communications
Post offices are located in towns and large villages, but may not be available in small villages. Public telephones are also available wherever there are settlements, but if not, ask at a bar. Mobile phone signals are usually good around settlements, but the nature and remoteness of the countryside usually ensures that there are plenty of dead areas where signals cannot be accessed. There are very few internet outlets, but some accommodation providers may offer a service. If access is needed, enquire before booking. (Curiously, the internet service provider Tiscali was named after a remote Sardinian archaeological site.)
Tourist Information
Tourist information for the whole of Sardinia is available at www.sardegna turismo.it. Two regional tourism bodies cover the area featured in this guidebook, Nuoro www.provincia.nuoro.it and Ogliastra www.turismo.ogliastra.it. Tourist information offices are rarely encountered while travelling around such a remote area, but can be found in towns and larger villages. Offices in the following locations may prove useful when looking for information about accommodation and local attractions.
Nuoro, Piazza Italia, tel 0784-238878
Oliena, Piazza Berlinguer, tel 0784-286078
Dorgali, Via Lamarmora, tel 0784-96243
Cala Gonone, Viale Bue Marino, tel 0784-93696
Santa Maria Navarrese, Piazza Principessa, tel 0782-614037
Tortolì, Via
