highlighted – Ogliastra – published by Balzano Edizioni. A similar, but simpler version is published by Edizioni Serinet. Balzano Edizioni also publishes a good 1:50,000 scale Comunità Montana map, and sheet 9 covers the mountains around Nuoro. There may be other maps that show walking routes with varying degrees of usefulness and accuracy, but the ones mentioned here are the best.
Travelling around this part of Sardinia requires the use of a suitable road map. Michelin and DeAgostini both publish maps with a good level of detail at a scale of 1:200,000.
Emergencies
Depending on the nature of an emergency, phone for the police (carabinieri) on 112, fire service (vigili del fuoco) on 115, ambulance (ambulanza) on 118, or road rescue (ICA) on 116. There is an organised mountain rescue service on Sardinia, based in Nuoro, with a branch in Urzulei (both in the area covered by this guide). If a rescue is required, call 118 and specify that mountain rescue (intervento tecnico in montagna) is needed.
Using this guide
This guidebook covers a selection of walking routes stretching from the cliff coast of Ogliastra to the highest mountains of Gennargentu. Routes include short, easy and popular walks as well as long, difficult and less frequented walks – the information box at the start of each route gives key details about the walk. Always read the route descriptions in advance and don't be tempted to tackle anything beyond your ability.
The higher parts of the track climb gently around the slopes at Su Arcu Mannu (Walk 43)
The routes in the guide are arranged by location – the guide first describes those in the north of the region, then routes further south and east, and subsequently walks in the west. Not all the walks are circular, and for linear routes information on transport back to the start is provided in the route description. Many of the walks adjoin or overlap each other, and can be joined together to create longer walks (the maps show some of the adjoining routes in order to help the reader do this).
Take note of the length of each walk, the time needed to complete it, and the nature of the terrain, then take account of the day's weather. Timings vary from person to person, so if you need more time for one route than that given in the information box, then you will probably need more time for all the routes in the guide. Just work out how much extra time you are likely to need. Conversely, if you finish early on one route, you might well finish early on all of them, and should take this into account when planning each day's walk. The timings are walking times and do not include time spent resting, stopping for lunch, or in long contemplation.
Macchia-covered hills around Giustizieri are easily explored while following clear tracks (Walk 13)
The strip maps in the guidebook concentrate on features close to the walking routes, and if you want to explore further you will need maps extending beyond the area covered. The more remote the route, the more important it is to carry extra mapping. Step-by-step route descriptions are given in the guide, and place-names shown in bold in the route description also appear on the strip maps, allowing walkers to keep track of progress. Any shops, bars or restaurants along the way are mentioned, otherwise walkers need to be completely self-sufficient. Although some routes include spring-fed water sources, these cannot be guaranteed during a long, hot and dry spell, so always carry sufficient drinking water.
Sardinia is a huge island, and the 50 walking routes in this guidebook, covering around 750km (465 miles), represent only a fraction of what is available. After completing several routes, walkers should have a good understanding of the nature of the Sardinian landscape, and should be able to approach other parts of the island with greater confidence.
THE WALKS
WALK 1
Monte Ortobene from Nuoro
| Start/Finish | Chiesa la Solitudine, Nuoro |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Total Ascent/Descent | 650m (2130ft) |
| Time | 5hrs |
| Terrain | Roads and tracks, from farmland to wooded slopes, and a steep wooded path for the descent |
| Maps | IGMI ‘Serie 50’ 500, ‘Serie 25’ 500 IV |
| Refreshment | Plenty of choice in Nuoro; bars on top of Monte Ortobene |
| Transport/Access | ATP city buses run between Nuoro and Monte Ortobene |
| Note | Descent uses waymarked trail 101 |
Monte Ortobene is a very popular destination for motorists, although plenty of walkers also climb it. Farm and woodland tracks can be linked to approach the busy summit for exceptional views. A winding, waymarked path can be used on a well-wooded descent to return to Nuoro.
Start at a chapel, Chiesa la Solitudine, on the outskirts of Nuoro. A small bar and gelateria are available, and the walk goes up the road Via Monte Ortobene. When it bends sharp right, go through a gateway and down a concrete track into holm oak woods. Climb gently and turn right down to a picnic site in mixed woodland. Turn left down a track, and left again at a junction down to the road. Turn right and quickly right again, following a track running parallel to the road for a while. Cross a bridge and pass a turning signposted ‘Chiesa di N S di Valverde'. If visiting the chapel, return here afterwards.
The road reaches a ‘Km2’ sign at Janna Ventosa. Turn right and go through the middle of three gateways. A track descends steeply, then more gently past pines and eucalyptus, while the slopes of Monte Ortobene are dotted with granite tors. Climb a bit then continue down the track, across bouldery slopes of scrub woodland. Cross a stream-bed and climb gently, through a gateway and over a rise. The tallest trees are cork oaks, then the track climbs past olives, steepening and passing a ruin. The climb continues relentlessly on Cuccuru Sinnurtui, with dense macchia, cork oaks and pines alongside.
Turn left at a junction, undulating among mixed woodlands. Stay on the main track, avoiding all others to left and right, and later climb a concrete track with a power line alongside. A derelict sports centre stands to the right, around 700m (2300ft). Turn left along a road to reach a turning space beside a weed-grown sports pitch. Continue along and down a track into woods, then climb and watch for a vague path on the right. If you climb too far a grotesque outcrop is seen, with a gateway alongside. Go back down and look more carefully for the path.
The path is narrow and brambly, then clearer as it climbs through dense woods, a clearing, and more woods. Turn right up a broken concrete track and pass a few properties, reaching a road over 900m (2950ft). Turn left up the road, which curves round Cuccuru Nigheddu, offering splendid views, with Monte Bardia to the east, Monte Corrasi south-east, and Gennargentu sprawling south. Reach a couple of restaurants and turn right up a road, then go sharp left up a path to a chapel on a wooded hilltop. Follow a narrow path past a building further along the crest and head down to a car park. (This point is served by ATP buses from Nuoro.)
A pleasant, easy and obvious track runs round the northern slopes of Monte Ortobene
Follow a broad, stone-paved path, rising and falling through the woods. Climb stone steps to the huge bronze statue of Il Redentore (‘The Redeemer'), at 925m (3035ft) on Monte Ortobene. Enjoy extensive views, marred only by communication masts nearby at 955m (3133ft). Double back to the road and walk round the back of a nearby café/bar called Il Parco. A short concrete track leads onto a winding woodland track. Keep left of a house, passing a corner of a fence, to pick up a path flashed red/white, numbered 101. Walk down
