words and phrases
Appendix C Further reading
Appendix D Glacier travel and rescue techniques
At the Col Cornu enjoying splendid views of Mont Blanc (Classic Walk, Route 5)
The crux scramble of the Aiguille du Belvédère (Adventure Walks, Route 3)
INTRODUCTION
The Chamonix Valley seen from the Cosmiques Arête (Alpine Mountaineering, Route 1)
Chamonix, the place of dreams, the home of huge glaciated mountains, including western Europe’s highest peak, Mont Blanc; the playground of serious mountaineers … in summer alpinists frequent the sheer rocky faces and steep icy couloirs, in winter extreme skiers launch themselves down audacious slopes and aspirant North Face climbers tackle the cold dark ice faces.
There is another Chamonix, one that offers a plethora of different mountain activities for those who are searching for a mountain holiday not confined to one sport. There are walks both on and off glaciers for all levels; easily accessed climbs for beginners as well as experts; bike rides both on and off road for those just learning how to pedal as well as those looking for daredevil jumps and long hard ascents; miles of trails perfect for runners; and, if you know where to look, there are some very adventurous walks and via ferrata which venture onto terrain normally off limits for non-climbers. Add to this a practical and reliable infrastructure of public transport and lift systems, which make Chamonix an easily accessible and user-friendly resort. Put succinctly, Chamonix is a playground for anyone looking for adventure in whatever form, against one of the most splendid and inspiring mountain backdrops you could dream of.
This guide aims to open up this world of multi-activity to anyone who wants to explore it. Classic hikes and challenging adventurous expeditions are described, along with walks that will suit all the family, from dog to granny. Regular valley mountain bike routes are included here as well as the very latest in dedicated descents using cable cars and the fabulously spectacular ‘Dirt Zones’ and bike parks – strictly for those under 30 with shock-absorbing bodies as well as bikes. The most popular and accessible rock-climbing venues are also briefly outlined, with some of the favourite moderate routes described as well as the increasingly popular bouldering sites.
Approaching the Chéserys Slabs (Rock Climbing, Area 4)
Walks up to mountain huts will appeal to those who fancy a night far from the madness of town, where you can watch the sun set while enjoying true mountain hospitality. Meanwhile, those who like their adventure sprinkled with a frisson of verticality will savour the two via ferratas that are not too far from Chamonix to be feasible in a day.
Finally, other activities are noted and there is a full list of guidebooks for each activity where these exist, in addition to information on resources and valley facilities.
This is a book designed to inspire, to motivate and to inform but it doesn’t stand alone: for the walks you’ll require a proper map; for climbing, via ferrata and for glacier travel you’ll need appropriate experience and equipment, topos and maybe even a Mountain Guide.
This is your starting point – the rest of your adventure is up to you!
The region
Chamonix is in the Haute Savoie region of France and is situated about an hour’s drive from Geneva airport. The valley runs south-west to north-east, with the Vallorcine valley continuing to the Swiss frontier. However, although known as ‘Chamonix Mont Blanc’, the actual summit of that mountain falls squarely within the territory of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, which is a source of contention between the two towns and means that Saint-Gervais can claim the distinction of being the highest municipality in western Europe.
Sunset on the Chamonix Aiguilles
Chamonix is at an altitude of 1050m and the valley in which it lies is formed by the Mont Blanc massif to the east and the Aiguilles Rouges to the west. Originally gouged out by the huge forces of the glaciers, the continuing slow erosion of the valley is now just due to the Arve, the main river.
The Mont Blanc massif itself straddles the frontiers of France, Italy and Switzerland, and travel from Chamonix into Italy and Switzerland is very easy. It is said that Chamonix is the third most visited natural site in the world and certainly on a busy day in high season you could easily believe that all the world is strolling down Chamonix main street!
It’s important to get a fix on the two sides of the valley as they provide very different terrain for mountain adventures. Generally, people refer to the north-facing (Mont Blanc massif) and south-facing (Aiguilles Rouges) sides of the valley, although really they are more north-west and south-east facing. The important thing is that the glaciers have to all intents and purposes died away on the north side (Aiguilles Rouges) so this is where you can hike, bike and climb in non-glaciated terrain, while the south side forms the slopes of the massif and that’s where you go for snow and ice.
Glaciers
The Mer de Glace may be shrinking but the scenery is nonetheless fabulous. Near the Lacs Noirs (Classic Walks, Route 5)
Chamonix is dominated by its glaciers and glaciated peaks and they will form the backdrop for almost any hike, ride or climb in the region. The valleys have been carved by ice and what remains of these huge frozen rivers is what many people now come to see.
Chamonix has about 40 glaciers – it’s said that from La Flégère cable car top station you can see 14 of them all at once. There are two very striking ones, the Bossons Glacier and the Mer de Glace Glacier. These are each quite different, the Bossons Glacier being very steep and moving at around 250m a year, while the Mer de Glace is relatively flat for much of its length and moves at a leisurely 50m a year. But what they and all other glaciers in the region have in common is that they are very much smaller and shorter than they were 150 years ago.
Previously the glaciers snaked all the way down to the main Chamonix valley, and 15,000 years ago ice filled the Chamonix valley and onwards all the way to Lyon. The glaciers have been retreating, with small exceptions, for the last 150 years. While this is not the first time that the temperatures have warmed up, it’s certainly the fastest change known about and threatens to have consequences far more wide-ranging than just shortening the ski season.
Nevertheless, the glaciated scenery still adds immensely to any mountain adventures in the Chamonix region. The glaciers look their best after a light dusting of snow, giving them a fresh coat of paint. On sunny days the ice picks up the rays and throws them back, glinting and sparkling; on cloudy days the glaciers reflect the grey. So pick your activities carefully – save those especially picturesque hikes, climbs and rides for a perfect day.
Flowers and animals
Whether you’re hiking, climbing, running or biking, there’s lots to see in the Alps. Throughout the
