changed, except that it has been established that dragons probably don’t inhabit the peaks, or if they do they’re fairly innocuous.
The routes in this guide can be planned for a first alpine season, but it must be stressed that mountaineering in the Alps is potentially a deadly activity and each alpine summer sees many accidents on the peaks and glaciers, some of them fatal. Appropriate knowledge and training must be undertaken to climb safely in the high mountains and for this reason these walks and climbs are very often done with professional guides.
Mountain biking
Mountain biking near Le Tour (photo: Marc Volorio)
Chamonix has embraced the evolution of mountain biking over the last 20 years or so and now has several dedicated venues for descent and aerobatics. These places are briefly described in this book, but there are also lots of trails that lend themselves to knobbly tyres and low gears and the best of these rides are described.
However, the relationship between hikers and bikers remains fragile, so restrictions have been set and some trails are off limits, especially in the peak holiday season, July and August. Nevertheless, bikers and hikers can live in harmony and, thanks to these clear regulations, there are some really good rides where any mountain biker, from beginner to expert, can have a great time and not be shouted at or risk killing anyone in the process. A series of rides are detailed in this book, and reference is made to other resources for those who decide riding the trails is for them.
Road biking
Cycling on the road in the Alps has its roots in deep-seated tradition, with the annual Tour de France always passing through the alpine chain within view of Mont Blanc. However, until fairly recently it seemed to be the preserve of the bronzed and honed Lance Armstrong look-alikes. The last few years have seen an explosion in the popularity of the sport and now, as soon as the roads are snow-free, cyclists of all abilities are to be seen powering and puffing their way up the local passes. And there’s certainly plenty to go at, from the major passes of the Haute Savoie to minor roads that give a more varied and less relentless ride. There are also options to make life easier by riding from one place to another and taking the train back.
Trail running
Trail running is another activity that has massively increased in popularity in the last few years. Time was, when the odd lightly clad runner smoking past overburdened hikers on the trail was a fairly rare occurrence. Now it’s quite normal, especially when one of the local races is coming up. These days, people run year round in Chamonix, taking to the hard-packed snowy valley trails in the depth of winter. The prestigious Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc has ensured that Chamonix is fast becoming the Holy Grail of mountain running – and with good cause, given the vast array of trails available.
Rock climbing and bouldering
Sunny climbing on perfect rock at the central sector of Les Chéserys
Chamonix has a whole collection of crags in the valley, with approaches of just a few minutes. These crags all offer bolted climbing, with lots of routes in the more moderate grade range. Many crags are suitable for children too (as long as they’re well-behaved!). Just a few routes on each of the selected crags are described, but if sampling these climbs makes you want more, the local guidebooks will ensure a lifetime of climbing adventures.
In addition to the roped brigade, more and more climbers seem to have decided to forego the time, expense and weight of ropes and gear, and have taken to walking around with big pads. Several bouldering sites in and around the Chamonix valley cater to the needs of the Pad People.
Via ferratas
It’s perhaps surprising, but there are no real via ferratas in the Chamonix and Vallorcine valleys. There are lots of cabled sections of path (which often feature on the Adventure Walks) and some mountain hut approaches are enabled by ladders and chains. But there are no via ferratas where you need to use proper gear and where the cabled way is purely an entity in itself. However, if this is what you want to do, do not despair. An hour or so’s drive from Chamonix gives access to several via ferratas in the Haute Savoie region, all of which are listed here and two of which are described.
Other activities
There are lots of other sporty activities to occupy you in and around Chamonix. Here are some of them:
Golf Chamonix boasts a fine course, the big attraction being the backdrop of prestigious peaks – Mont Blanc, the Drus, the Aiguille Verte, the Chamonix Needles … it doesn’t come much more scenic than this! Open every day from late April to early November.
Tennis The courts are just off the Place Mont Blanc near the river and are open from early May to the end of September.
Swimming The swimming centre has had a recent makeover and features various pools, indoors and out, with lots of exciting slides and other aquatic joys. Also near the Place Mont Blanc.
Skating rink There’s an indoor Olympic rink and outdoor rink in winter, next to the swimming pool.
Planpraz is one of the main take-off zones for paragliders
Paragliding Known as parapente in French, there are several take-off points from the Chamonix lifts. There is a special lift pass for paragliders. There are also several companies offering tandem rides. The world championships are regularly held at the Planpraz lift and this is a good place to go any hot summer’s day to watch people taking off. During July and August take-off is forbidden from the Aiguille du Midi.
Rafting The River Arve seems to give a great rafting experience and there are several companies offering this in Chamonix.
Canyoning Various good canyoning sites exist in and around Chamonix. The Compagnie de Guides in Chamonix offer guided descents.
Canyoning at Barberine, near Vallorcine
Summer luge This thrilling toboggan ride is accessed by a chairlift at Les Planards, near the centre of town, just after the road crossing of the Montenvers railway.
Indoor climbing There is a climbing wall at Les Houches for you to hone your skills.
Rainy day activities
Just occasionally it rains in Chamonix. Of course, hiking and biking are perfectly feasible in the rain but once the attraction of this wears off you might be looking for drier activities.
The cinema often has films in English.
The Alpine Museum is a good way to while away an afternoon.
The Espace Tairraz has a fascinating crystals museum, the Musée des Cristaux. There is also an interactive alpine exhibition. An entrance ticket here also gets you entry to the Alpine Museum.
The Petit Train Touristique offers a tour of town with guided commentary and would more or less keep you dry in the rain.
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