du Tour, Chardonnet and Argentière – all unseen from the village – but it is the proximity of such huts as the Cabanes d’Orny and Trient that puts Champex-based climbers in touch with these mountains today.
Champex has an Office du Tourisme (www.verbier-st-bernard.ch) which is located along the main street on the northeast side of the lake. The village has only a few shops, but there’s a post office, a handful of restaurants, a renowned alpine garden with an impressive collection of plants (open daily May to September), a chairlift to La Breya at 2194m, and a terraced campsite open throughout the year situated at the upper end of the village. A small selection of hotels range from 1 to 3-star, and dormitory accommodation is available at the Pension En Plein Air (www.pensionenpleinair.ch), and at the Au Club Alpin (www.auclubalpin.ch). Less than an hour’s walk west of the village, just inside Val d’Arpette, the Relais d’Arpette has standard hotel bedrooms, 80 dormitory places, and space for camping at the rear of the hotel (www.arpette.ch). Being on the route of both the TMB and the Chamonix to Zermatt Walker’s Haute Route, Champex is busy with rucksack-laden trekkers throughout the summer months, and in the spring ski-touring season Haute Route skiers arrive here from Cabane du Trient to await transport to Bourg-St-Pierre or Verbier for the next stage of their journey to Zermatt.
Champex, one-time mountaineering centre
Above and to the west of the village, Val d’Arpette is very different from the immediate surroundings of Champex. This is a wild valley, wooded but with open meadows in its lower reaches, rougher in its middle section and rugged and untamed towards its head where it’s confused by boulder tips and patches of grit and old snow. Though only one of the walling mountains reaches 3200m, the valley seems dwarfed by abrupt slopes. The south flank is swept by a vast ramp of scree, while the headwall is topped by a bristling ridge containing the spiked summits of Pointe d’Orny and Pointe des Ecandies; this latter summit pushes forward a spur that effectively divides the western end of the valley in two. Used by both the TMB and Walker’s Haute Route (see box) the 2665m Fenêtre d’Arpette cuts through the ridge just north of Pointe des Ecandies, but the more challenging Col des Ecandies (2796m) below the Petite Pointe d’Orny is adopted by skiers on the classic Haute Route when departing the Trient refuge.
Making a two-week journey from Chamonix to Zermatt across the grain of the Pennine Alps, the Walker’s Haute Route counts among the finest treks in Europe. The 180km route crosses 11 passes and gains in excess of 12,000m in height, so it’s a reasonably tough undertaking.
Accommodation includes valley hotels, dortoirs and mountain huts – for full details see Chamonix to Zermatt, the Walker’s Haute Route published by Cicerone.
Day 1: Assuming arrival in Chamonix on Day 1, this short first stage (2–2½hrs) remains in the valley and usually ends at Argentière.
Day 2: Three options exist here: the normal route crosses Col de Balme (2204m) and descends to Trient, the first village in Switzerland (see 1:5) for a 5–5½hr day, but an alternative from Col de Balme takes the trekker round to the unmanned Refuge les Grands (4½hrs), or continues from there to Col de la Forclaz where there’s hotel and dormitory accommodation (6½–7hrs).
Day 3: Another stage with an alternative route, the choice is of either crossing the Fenêtre d’Arpette, or taking the less demanding trail past Alp Bovine. Much will depend on weather conditions; if good, the Fenêtre is the favoured option. Both routes lead to Champex.
Day 4: From Champex to Le Châble in Val de Bagnes is an easy trek of 3½–4hrs through a gentle landscape punctuated with small villages.
Day 5: By direct contrast with Day 4, this is a demanding trek with more than 1600m of height to gain in order to reach Cabane du Mont Fort after 6–6½hrs. But memorable views from the hut make the effort worthwhile.
Day 6: Once again two options are offered for the trek to Cabane de Prafleuri. From the Mont Fort Hut the main route goes along the balcony trail of the Sentier des Chamois with stunning views of the Combin massif, before turning to Col de Louvie; while the alternative takes a more direct route to Col de Louvie by way of the rocky Col de la Chaux. From Col de Louvie the way descends below the Grand Désert glacier, before making a long approach to Col de Prafleuri, followed by descent into a bleak basin in which stands Cabane de Prafleuri (6–6½hrs by the main route, 5½hrs via Col de la Chaux).
Day 7: A delightful 6½hr walk leads to Arolla via Col des Roux and either Col de Riedmatten or Pas de Chèvres, with an option of visiting Cabane des Dix below the North Face of Mont Blanc de Cheilon. This is one of the finest stages of the Haute Route, with a choice of accommodation to be had in Arolla.
Day 8: A gentle valley stroll takes the Walker’s Haute Route down to Les Haudères, followed by a short uphill stretch leading to La Sage – a relaxing 4hr stage.
Day 9: Above La Sage either Col de Torrent or the rougher Col du Tsaté lead to the Val de Moiry (see 2:7). For accommodation Cabane de Moiry is highly recommended (5–5½hrs), otherwise you could stay in a dortoir above the Barrage de Moiry (5hrs), or descend to a choice of hotels in Grimentz in 6½–7hrs.
Day 10: The main Walker’s Haute Route descends from Cabane de Moiry, then contours across a hillside above Lac de Moiry before climbing to Col de Sorebois and plunging steeply down to Zinal near the head of the wonderful Val d’Anniviers (5–5½hrs). If starting from the Barrage de Moiry, Zinal is reached in 4–4½hrs.
Day 11: Turning away from the big mountains, this stage either makes a 3½–4hr trek to Hotel Weisshorn (or continues for a further hour to Cabane Bella Tola) in readiness for crossing the Meidpass into the Turtmanntal next day, or it avoids the hotel and hut completely by crossing the lovely Forcletta on a direct route into the Turtmanntal (5½–6hrs), to overnight in the tiny village of Gruben.
Day 12: The final crossing of the Haute Route is the 2894m Augstbordpass which gives access to the Mattertal. Once over this the trail descends (with beautiful views throughout) for more than 1700m to St Niklaus (7½hrs) by way of the charming little hamlet of Jungen (5½hrs), which has a limited amount of dormitory accommodation (but check first).
Day 13: It’s possible to have a 5½hr valley walk of 18km to reach Zermatt, but the preferred option ascends the east flank of the valley to Gasenried (4hrs) where a night is spent before tackling the Europaweg.
Day 14: Created in 1996, the 31km Europaweg from Grächen to Zermatt is unstable in many places and there may be significant diversions, but it makes an exhilarating two-day trek high above the Mattertal with great views for much of the way. This first stage ends at the comfortable Europa Hut about 5½–6hrs from Gasenried.
Day 15: The final stage of the Walker’s Haute Route completes the Europaweg by continuing beyond Täschalp and the hamlet of Tufteren to visit Findeln, with its spectacular Matterhorn view, before descending to Zermatt at the end of a 6½–7hr day.
Walks and climbs from Champex
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