Above it short, modest routes suitable for first-season alpinists, can be found on the easily accessible Further north along the frontier ridge, between the Aiguille d’Argentière and Grande Fourche, the beautiful
La Fouly
Continuing deeper into Val Ferret beyond Praz de Fort, more meadows, groups of chalets and haybarns underline the pastoral nature of the valley. Shortly before reaching La Fouly, the hamlet of L’Amône has significance for climbers; not for the proximity of any great peak, but for the 400m white limestone crag known as the
Standing astride the road at 1592m La Fouly is the undisputed mountaineering centre of the valley. Hardly a resort, this small village has a large campsite at the entrance to the l’A Neuve cirque crowned by the Tour Noir. La Fouly has a Bureau des Guides et Accompagnateurs, a ski school, some 15km of marked pistes for cross-country skiing, 160km of waymarked paths, several shops and restaurants, and an Office du Tourisme (www.verbier-st-bernard.ch) in the main street. For accommodation there are three hotels that also have dormitories: the Grand-Hotel du Val Ferret (www.ghvf.ch), Hotel Edelweiss, and Hotel des Glaciers, while Camping des Glaciers sprawls just below the village.
Mont Dolent, on whose summit the borders of Switzerland, France and Italy unite
Built on the north side of l’A Neuve cirque, in a spectacular position under the crest of the Pointes des Essettes at 2735m, and with a direct view of Mont Dolent’s steep North Face, Cabane de l’A Neuve is another SAC hut owned by the Diablerets section. With just 28 places it has a guardian from mid-March to mid-May, and from the middle of June to the end of September (www.aneuve.ch). The approach route, which takes about 3½hrs from La Fouly and is signed from near the campsite, is a challenging one, aided in places by fixed chains or cables and with a glacial torrent for company part of the way.
Above the hut the rock peaks of the
MONT DOLENT
Acting as the southeast cornerstone of the Mont Blanc range, the 3820m summit of Mont Dolent is significant for being the point where the borders of Switzerland, France and Italy meet. An attractive mountain with four irregular faces, it was first approached from the Italian side on 9 July 1864 by Edward Whymper and Adams-Reilly with their guides Michel Croz and Michel Payot, and Henri Charlet as porter. It was a straightforward climb from the Petit Col Ferret using the SE Ridge as the most obvious route; ‘a miniature ascent’ according to Whymper. As for the summit, ‘it was the loveliest little cone of snow that was ever piled up on a mountain-top … But there was nothing little about the view from the Mont Dolent’ – as many have commented since. ‘A superb view,’ said Rébuffet, ‘very extensive, over a whole series of different landscapes, from the wild to the pastoral.’ Adams-Reilly was emphatic: ‘Situated at a junction of three mountain ridges, it rises in a positive steeple far above anything in its immediate neighbourhood; and certain gaps in the surrounding ridges … extend the view in almost every direction… The view is as extensive, and far more lovely than that from Mont Blanc itself.’
The Upper Val Ferret
Outside La Fouly the road curves southeastward, drawing away from the main wall of peaks and in so doing gains a better prospect of them. The path used by the TMB (albeit more often walked in the opposite direction) crosses the river and gives an option of climbing to the Petit Col Ferret, while the more popular Grand Col Ferret route keeps company with the Drance de Ferret as far as Ferret. Before reaching this final village (in reality little more than a hamlet), a short diversion leads to the Gîte de la Léchère which is open from June to the end of September, has 35 dorm places, self-catering facilities and meals provision (tel 027 783 30 64).
The tiny chapel at Ferret
Ferret (1705m) clusters at what was formerly the roadhead, and now marks the terminus of the postbus route from Orsières. Standing near the tiny chapel with fine mountain views, Hotel Col de Fenêtre is open from June until the end of September, and provides the only accommodation, with 17 beds and 18 dormitory places (www.hotelcoldefenetre.theyellowpages.ch).
High above Val Ferret the Lacs de Fenêtre lie in a charming plateau with views to the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Dolent and Tour Noir
Upstream beyond Ferret the road passes through light woodland, then emerges to open pastures loud with the clatter of cowbells. Ahead the valley seems to be enclosed by rolling green hills, while a backward glance shows a dramatic cluster of peaks and glaciers. The official roadhead
