of the Bernese Oberland to the green rolling Kitzbüheler Alps and the bizarre towers of the Dolomites of South Tirol, the routes having been especially selected in an attempt to show the amazing diversity of this wonderful mountain chain.
There are walks to suit every taste: gentle and undemanding, long and tough, and everything in between. Most of the routes avoid climbing of a technical nature, beyond the odd scramble aided by a fixed rope. Glacier crossings where crevasses lurk for the unwary have also been avoided in the main, although just a small handful of walks stray onto ice in order to reach a distant hut. And it is, of course, the huts which give this collection a unique flavour.
Mountain huts are found right across the Alpine chain and provide a focus for these walks. On some of the outings a hut will be reached in time to have lunch in the dining room, or outside on the terrace with a view, and then return to your valley base. But some are located too far from the valley to make a round-trip in a single day, so one would need to spend a night there. On a few occasions I’ve suggested making a short hut to hut tour, as an introduction to one of the most satisfying methods of spending an active mountain holiday. Some of the huts visited will be familiar to regular Alpine walkers and climbers, but I’ve also included a number that are likely to be unheard of. Each has its particular merit, its own character, and will be worth seeking out.
Mountain Huts
Private hut above Les Contamines (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The Alpine hut system is a tremendous boon to both walkers and climbers. Initially built as simple overnight bases in order to reduce the time mountaineers might need to tackle a chosen peak, a comprehensive series of huts (cabane, capanna, refuge, or rifugio) gradually developed that were of use to mountain walkers too. It is now virtually possible to traverse the Alps from one end to the other using huts throughout.
Most have been built by mountaineering clubs, but there are many – especially in Austria – that are privately-owned but open to all. Accommodation is not cheap, so if it is your intention to stay in a number of them during your holiday, consider joining the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) or an Alpine club to benefit from a discount on each overnight, although meals are not subject to reductions. Note that in Italian huts members should be of the same nationality as the club they belong to in order to benefit from discounts. Addresses are given in Appendix A, but it is worth noting that it is cheaper to join the Austrian Alpine Club, which has a UK branch, whose membership card is accepted for reduced rates in all huts other than those that are privately owned. (Another benefit of AAC membership is that of automatic insurance for mountain rescue, medical treatment and repatriation worldwide.)
Strategically placed, most huts visited in this book are looked after in the summer season by a guardian, or warden, who provides hot meals, snacks and drinks. French huts sometimes have a separate room for self-catering where you can prepare food on your own stove. Meals provided by the guardian are usually served at set times. They may not be haute cuisine, other than by definition of the hut’s altitude, but they are often good and fairly substantial as to quantity – apart from breakfast, that is. In huts owned by the Austrian Alpine Club there’s usually a choice of menu, the cheapest item being the Bergsteigeressen (literally the mountaineer’s meal) which must contain at least 500 calories. It is often possible to buy a jug of boiled water to make your own hot drinks, so it’s worth taking your own tea bags or coffee. A bag of muesli, pre-mixed with milk powder (simply add water), could also be carried to enhance a breakfast that would otherwise be limited to a few meagre slices of bread and jam or cheese.
Sleeping arrangements in huts vary little from one end of the Alps to the other. Dormitory accommodation is the norm. Not in individual youth hostel-type bunks, but on a large communal ‘shelf’ of mattresses with a space allocated by the guardian. Blankets or duvets and pillows are provided, but not bed linen, so it is advisable to carry a sheet sleeping bag (obligatory in AAC huts). There is no segregation of the sexes, and in the more popular buildings in the height of the season these dormitories can become overcrowded and airless. If it’s a climbing hut, expect disturbance in the early pre-dawn darkness as climbers get up to begin their route; at the same time you should be aware of the need for quiet during the evening while others try to get a few hours of sleep before making their 1:00 or 2:00am start. Some huts operate a ‘silent time’ from 10:00pm until 6:00am, while in the larger huts, and this is especially true in Austria, it’s possible for a couple or a family to have a two- or four-bedded room as opposed to sleeping in a communal dormitory – at a higher cost, naturally, but often well worth the price.
Nearly all huts have a supply of slippers, or ‘hut shoes’, stored on racks in the boot room at the entrance. On arrival you should exchange your boots for a pair of these slippers, and leave trekking poles, ice axe and/or crampons on a rack too. It’s unacceptable to take these into the hut’s communal rooms, whether you plan to stay overnight or just call in for a bowl of soup in the middle of the day. In some huts rucksacks are banned beyond the boot room, and in such cases a basket is usually supplied in which you place your essentials to carry into the hut proper.
The ambience of a hut often depends as much on the sociability of the guardian as on other users. The best are hospitable and friendly, who tend their hut with care, and have a deep love of the surrounding mountains. Most are knowledgable with regard to the condition of onward routes, and their advice can be usefully sought. Some are known to produce a guitar or accordian and at the drop of a hat will fill the evenings with music. The service they provide is to be appreciated.
Except in the more remote and little-known regions (some of which are included in this book) it will be rare indeed to have a hut to yourself. In the height of the summer season, or at weekends, a number of huts will be fully booked, and it is essential to make a phone call in advance should it be your intention to stay. Telephone numbers are given with the walk descriptions.
Monte Rosa, from the terrace of the Hörnli Hut on the Matterhorn (Walk 28)
Walking in the Alps
Above Jüngen the view takes in the whole eastern side of the Mattertäl with the Nadelhorn, Dom and Tasch (photo: Jonathan Williams)
The key to a successful walking holiday in the Alps lies in preparation. To gain the most from such a holiday it is important to get fit before leaving home, then you’ll enjoy each day’s exercise, from first to last. Alpine walking can be demanding, so don’t be over ambitious as soon as you arrive, but instead gradually increase distance and height-gain as the holiday progresses. Acclimatisation to altitude varies from one person to another. Unless you attempt to climb one of the 4000m peaks during the first few days of your holiday, it’s unlikely that you’ll notice much change, although some may be a little breathless above 1800m or so even when walking on the flat. Headaches and loss of appetite may be experienced, but these should disappear as you acclimatise. First-time visitors to the Alps sometimes find the sheer scale of the mountains intimidating, but this will soon pass as you become accustomed to wandering amongst them.
Choosing the right footwear to take is of prime importance. Good walking boots will be needed on practically every hut approach described in these pages. Anything less and you’re bound to regret it. Trekking poles are now used throughout the Alps and are recommended, for they ease the strain on knees and thighs, especially when tackling steep descents, and have a beneficial long-term effect. On multi-day routes they are almost indispensable.
When planning your day’s walk read the route description beforehand and study the map so you can follow the route upon it and thereby gain an idea of what to expect. Although an estimated time
