04 93 04 64 64, www.cafnice.org) Located on the south bank of Lac Long, it is linked with Refuge de Valmasque (see Walk 1) by a trail which crosses the Baisse de Valmasque at the head of the Merveilles valley.
To vary the return to Lac des Mesches, follow the track all the way (2hrs). This gives surprisingly fine views, especially in its upper reaches. But you should also allow a minimum of 2½hrs to explore part of the narrow Vallée des Merveilles northwest of the hut where many fine pictographs are to be found, then return along the north side of Lac Long to rejoin the track east of the refuge.
WALK 3
Refuge de Nice (2232m: 7323ft)
| Start | Pont de Countet (1692m: 5551ft) |
| Valley base | St-Martin-Vésubie |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) round trip |
| Total ascent | 540m (1772ft) |
| Time | 2–2½hrs up, 1¾hrs down |
| Map | Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000 |
Located in a rocky cirque at the head of the Vallon de la Gordolasque – a long tributary of the important Vésubie – Refuge de Nice is suited equally to climbers and trekkers. Peaks that rim the cirque offer a variety of routes, while the summit of Mont Clapier (3045m) rewards with one of the finest panoramas of the whole Maritime Alps. Since the hut is also on the route of the long-distance GR52, it’s well-used by trekkers, and by day visitors too who tackle the following route from the roadhead car park at Pont de Countet. It’s a fine walk which exchanges the gentle pastoral nature of the lower Gordolasque for the wild inner recesses of the mountains.
Vallon de la Gordolasque is gained by a serpentine road which climbs out of the Vésubie valley at Roquebillière to reach Belvédère village. Pont de Countet lies about 12km upvalley where there’s ample parking space. The path to the Nice hut begins by the bridge and heads along the left (west) side of the stream, and soon passes a small shepherd’s hut. Beyond this it weaves among huge boulders on which routes have been marked by a local climbing school, and about 20mins from the start comes to a junction of trails. The righthand option offers an alternative way to the hut via the so-called Murdes Italiens, and has a spur to Lac Autiers – a recommended walk for another day.
Remain on the left of the stream where the path tacks to and fro up long switchbacks over scree, in order to rise above huge smooth slabs that form a mid-valley barrier. Eventually gain a high point above the slabs and slope down slightly to stream level, where the alternative Mur des Italiens path rejoins ours. This is a brief respite only, for the way resumes climbing among slabs with cairns provided where the trail is a little indistinct. After topping another high point, the path then eases into a marshy meadow below a barrage behind which (unseen as yet) lies Lac de la Fous. On the far side of the meadow the path rises again to another junction at 2173m. The left-hand trail here crosses Pas du Mont Colomb and offers a way to neighbouring Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre, but we veer right along GR52 and soon gain a track on the west bank of Lac de la Fous. The Nice hut can be seen on a knoll above the northeast shore. Keep well above the lake, and at the far end cross a stream and climb directly to the hut.
Vallon de la Gordolasque, below Refuge de Nice
Owned by the CAF, Refuge de Nice has 90 places and meals provision when the guardian is in residence. This is usually from mid-June to end of September. (Tel: 04 93 04 62 74, www.cafnice.org).
Return to Pont de Countet either by the same route of approach, or descend by the steep, but straightforward, Mur des Italiens path.
WALK 4
Refuge de Cougourde (2090m: 6857ft)
| Start | Vallée du Boréon (1680m: 5512ft) |
| Valley base | St-Martin-Vésubie |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) in all |
| Total ascent | 470m (1542ft) |
| Time | 2hrs to the hut, 1hr down |
| Map | Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000 |
The standard approach to this hut is interesting enough, since it rises through a charming valley with a clear stream for company much of the way. But what is suggested here is a diversion to visit first a lake in a magical setting before making a traverse round the mountain flank to the hut itself. Refuge de Cougourde is a chalet-style hut built in 2002 to replace the odd-looking original. Its location on the edge of meadowland under peaks that form the Franco-Italian border is delightful.
From Le Boréon hamlet, northeast of St-Martin, drive towards the head of the Vallée du Boréon (taxi possible). The tarmac road ends with plenty of parking spaces and picnic sites near the Vacherie du Boréon, but a broad track continues to an upper car park (Parking Supérieure) in the woods just above the vacherie. The walk begins here, by an information board. Initially follow a track through forest, but when it swings right in about 3mins, walk ahead on a stony path, then when it forks take the upper option. This leads to a forest clearing with a pool, a small building, and views to nearby cascades. Beyond this clearing the path twists uphill and comes to a bridge over the stream at 1838m. Cross this and wander upvalley with the stream for company, and rocky peaks looming ahead. Reach a junction where the left-hand path goes to the Lacs Bessons, but continue ahead for another 3mins to another junction on the north side of a dock-covered pasture below the little Pierastrèche cabin (1936m). The left-hand path is the direct route to the hut, but we bear right and recross the stream.
Lac de Trecolpas, near Refuge de Cougourde
At first the path slants across the hillside among alpenroses, then twists more steeply up the south side of a broad spur dividing two stems of the upper Boréon valley. This is blocked by Cime de l’Agnellière and its consort of slabs and cliffs. Just below an obvious brief saddle there’s another path junction. (Left to the hut, straight ahead to the lake.) Climb to the saddle, beyond which you’ll find the lovely Lac de Trecolpas (2150m), then when you can tear yourself away, return to the junction and bear right. The path makes a traverse of rocks and scree below the Tête de Trecolpas, then among larch and alpenroses before negotiating yet more rocks. Finally cross a stream to gain Refuge de Cougourde, about 30mins from the lake.
Refuge de Cougourde is owned by the Nice section of the CAF, with 40 places and full meals service. It is staffed from mid-June to the end of September. (Tel: 04 93 03 26 00, www.cafnice.org).
The downward path begins from the hut and descends steeply to the Pierastrèche junction where you rejoin the main trail used on the upward route.
WALK
