Mini Spicy Sichuan Cooking. Daniel Reid

      Chilies are indispensable in Sichuanese cooking. The commonly-used red and green finger-length chilies are moderately hot. Dried chilies are usually cut in lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use.

      Chili oil is made from dried chilies or chili powder steeped in oil, and is used to flavor some Sichuan dishes. Bottled chili oil is also available in Asian markets.

      Chili paste consists of ground fresh chilies, sometimes mixed with other ingredients such as vinegar, garlic or black beans, and commonly sold in jars. You may make your own and store it in the refrigerator, or purchase ready-made chili paste in Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.

      Dried black Chinese mushrooms are used widely in Asian cooking. They are easily available from the dry food sections in wet markets and supermarkets. They must be soaked in hot water to soften before use. The stems are removed and discarded; only the caps are used. Dry or fresh shiitake mushrooms are a good substitute.

      Dried prawns are tiny, orange prawns that have been dried in the sun. They come in different sizes. Available in Asian markets, they should look orangy-pink and plump; avoid any with a grayish appearance or an unpleasant smell. Dried prawns will keep for several months.

      Fermented bean paste (tau cheo or dou ban jiang) is a richly-flavored seasoning made from soybeans, similar to Japanese miso (which may be used as a substitute). The beans are fermented and salted and sold in jars. They vary in color from dark brown to light golden. The basic fermented bean paste contains only soybeans, water and salt. It is also possible to buy slightly sweetened versions or those with added chili. The beans are usually mashed with the back of a spoon before use.

      Rice wine is used frequently in Chinese cooking. The best wine for Chinese cooking is hua diao rice wine, Japanese sake or mirin. A good alternative is dry sherry.

      Sesame oil is pressed from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dense and highly aromatic oil that can be used for cooking, marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smokey flavor has become a hallmark of Chinese cuisine.

      Sesame paste is made from ground, roasted sesame seeds and comes covered with oil in glass jars. It is quite hard and needs to be mixed with a little sesame oil or water to make it into a smooth paste. If you can't find it, use Middle Eastern tahini mixed with some sesame oil to give it a more pronounced flavor. Not to be confused with the sweet sesame paste made from black sesame seeds which is used in some snacks and desserts.

      Sichuan peppercorns, also known as Chinese pepper or flower pepper (hua jiao in Mandarin) have a sharp pungency that tingles and slightly numbs the lips and tongue, an effect known in Chinese as ma la "numb hot."

      Sichuan pepper-salt powder may be prepared by roasting 2 tablespoons Sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan with 1 teaspoon of sea salt, then grinding them to a fine powder. This makes an excellent table condiment.

      Tofu is rich in protein and amazingly versatile. Silken or soft tofu has a very fine texture, high water content and tends to break easily. Firm tofu holds its shape better when cut or cooked and has a stronger, slightly sour taste.

      Vinegar is used to balance flavors in sauces and to bring out the natural tastes of foods, almost always in conjunction with a bit of sugar; unless the recipe calls for a specific variety of Chinese vinegar, the best choices are rice vinegar or apple cider vinegar; red wine vinegars do not go well with Chinese food.

      Wood ear fungus, is a thin, crinkly mushroom added to dishes for its crunchy texture. It is available both fresh and dried. Wash well and discard any hard patch in the center. Soak dried wood ear fungus in water until soft before using.

      Soy sauce is brewed from soybeans and wheat fermented with salt. It is salty and used as a table condiment and cooking seasoning. Regular soy sauce is a light clear brown liquid with a salty taste. Black soy sauce is denser, less salty

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