rocky summit of An Caisteal. This seemingly impenetrable mass of rock is in fact easily gained by heading to its west side from where a small path takes you to the summit (765m) (578 488, 7.5km, 3hr). All other routes would involve a serious rock climb. From its elevated position, this rocky castle offers brilliant 360° views.
Looking down on the Kyle of Tongue
To return, retrace your steps to the shoulder between An Caisteal and Sgor a’Bhatain, then head east down gentle slopes towards Loch na Creige Riabhaich. Just north of the loch you can pick up a path that runs north-northeast across the broad plateau, then zigzags down more steeply to rejoin the original path into the Bealach Clais nan Ceap. Follow this to return to the start via the outward route (14km, 5hr30).
Alternatives
A Full Traverse of the Ridge
For a full traverse, return to the west side of the summit of An Caisteal, then go south along the ridge to Beinn Bheag (744m). Carry on south taking you down then back up to the top of Carn an Tionail (716m), the last top of the ridge. From here, head west down grass and heather slopes to come to the top of a gully. Follow the gully down to meet the Allt Fhionnaich and head down its left bank, crossing it before it enters a steeper gorge (564 476). Head north then northwest around Sgor Fhionnaich before following a second burn steeply down through the birch forest to level ground below. Continue northwest across rough grassland to rejoin the path just before Cunside (20km, 960m, shown in blue).
2
Quinag (808m) from the Gaelic cuinneag, meaning ‘milking pail’
| Start | GR 232 273 |
| Distance | 13km |
| Ascent | 1200m |
| Time | 5hr30 |
| Terrain | This is a long, challenging route across rocky, narrow ridges, with some exposure and a lot of ups and downs. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 442 |
| Access | Quinag is owned by the John Muir Trust and there are no access restrictions. Contact the JMT on 0131 554 0114 or visit www.jmt.org. |
| Getting there | Start at the car park on the A837 (232 273). There are buses during the summer from Inverness to Skiag Bridge at the junction of the A837 and the A894 (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Take a walk around the ruins of Ardvreck Castle or visit the Bone Caves at nearby Inchnadamph, where human remains dating back 4500 years were found. |
Five tops, stunning scenery, several ridge walks and sea views make this an absolute epic, one of the best mountains in one of the wildest parts of Scotland.
More of a massif than a single mountain, Quinag has five tops, three of them Corbetts (if you are counting). Its huge Y-shaped form dominates north Assynt, stretching from Loch Assynt at the foot of its southern slopes, to the village of Kylesku to the north.
Loch Assynt is home to the ruins of Ardvreck Castle, standing on a peninsula jutting out into the loch. Built by the Clan MacLeod, who had owned much of Assynt since the 13th century, Ardvreck Castle is the scene of betrayal, conflict and ghosts.
Heading towards to Quinag
The Marquis of Montrose, a famous Royalist fighting against the Covenanters, sought sanctuary in the castle following his defeat at the Battle of Carbisdale in 1650. But instead of finding sanctuary, he was tricked into capture and transported to his execution in Edinburgh. The ghost of Montrose is said to still haunt the ruins.
Less than three decades later, the castle and much of Assynt were captured by the Mackenzie clan, who went on to build neighbouring Calda House, now also in ruins. Their stay was short lived too, as the Crown seized the castle and land following the Mackenzies’ participation in the failed Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.
From Kylesku, to Quinag’s north, you can travel by boat along Loch Glencoul to the site of Britain’s highest waterfall – Eas a’Chual Aluinn. At 200m, it is more than three times as high as Niagara Falls, though perhaps not quite as wide!
Now owned and protected by the John Muir Trust, Quinag is part of both the North West Highlands Geopark and the Assynt National Scenic Area. Its long ridges and fine peaks give rise to views over one of the wildest landscapes in Scotland. The surrounding land is studded with myriad lochs and lochans with white sandy beaches, stretched along the west coast beyond.
Route
From the car park, cross the A894 to take the small path that starts on the opposite side. This good path heads gently up towards the large east corrie of Quinag and the Lochan Bealach Cornaidh. It passes above the north side of the lochan, with its tantalising sandy beach, to come to steeper slopes below the Bealach a’Chornaidh.
Instead of climbing directly to the bealach, take the path off to the right (202 285) to double-back on yourself and traverse steeply northeast up onto the shoulder of Sail Gharbh by a large cairn (203 289). From here, head right along the broad rocky shoulder to reach the summit of Sail Gharbh (808m) (209 291, 5km, 2hr). Looking south you see the rocky buttresses of your last top of the day, Spidean Coinich.
Spidean Coinich and Lochan Bealach Cornaidh
Retrace your steps along the shoulder, but once at the cairn continue straight on, dropping slightly before making the steep ascent up the grassy slope of an unnamed peak at 745m. From here, on a clear day, the views out to sea and the Summer Isles are magical.
A steep path leads you north-northwest down off the top and along a narrow section of ridge. Once past an impressive square-topped knoll, a long but gradual ridge, with great views west, takes you all the way to the summit of Sail Gorm (776m) (198 303, 7km, 3hr).
Again retrace your steps, this time back to the unnamed top, from which the path zigzags steeply south on loose rock down to the Bealach a’Chornaidh. You could choose to return to the start from this point for a shorter day, but it is well worth continuing.
Climb very steeply south on an increasingly narrow ridge and along its interesting and airy rocky crest to reach a second unnamed top (713m). A gentler descent brings you to a small lochan and the final climb of the day. Pass the lochan on its left to gain the steep, rocky path to the summit of Spidean Coinich (764m) (206 277, 10km, 4hr30). Here the best views are over Loch Assynt and the peaks of Canisp and Suilven to the south.
To descend, head steeply southeast, balancing your way down across the large boulders of Spidean Coinich’s summit. The gradient soon lessens and the large boulders shrink, giving way to smaller stones and large slabs of rock. Use these slabs to pick a way east down the stony slopes, keeping near the edge of the shoulder. As you near the bottom, a small cairn (226 272) marks the start of a newer section of path that leads you north, avoiding boggy ground, to rejoin the outward path by a large cairn (228 276), from where it is a short walk back to the start (13km, 5hr30).
Alternatives
The route up Quinag can be easily reversed or shortened by only climbing the peaks to the north or to the south of the Bealach a’Chornaidh, or by omitting Sail Gorm.
From Loch Assynt
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