its new path.
Route
From the car park cross the road to take the well-built path on the other side. This starts off steep, but the gradient soon eases. When the path divides, take the left fork to pass through a gate in a deer fence and climb steadily northwest.
The path then heads north to bring you over the west shoulder of Stac Pollaidh and round the back of the hill. As you come round the back, ignore an older, eroded path off to the right that leads to the pinnacles. Instead, continue round until the path divides again, the left fork heading down to the east. You take the right fork, climbing steeply southeast up some rock steps and then along the top of a fence line to gain the ridge and a large cairn at 543m (110 104, 2km, 1hr15).
Stac Pollaidh from Ben More Coigach
This point, with its great views south to Coigach and north to Suilven, is where many walkers stop. The ridge from here involves some reasonably serious exposed scrambling, particularly on the final top, which is classed as a grade 3 scramble.
To continue, head west, making use of the small path that runs along the north side of the ridge to avoid the first rocky towers. This brings you to the unavoidable final tower for which you will need a good head for heights and scrambling skills to gain the summit (613m) (107 106, 2.5km, 1hr45). You are rewarded with great views west to the Summer Isles and across to neighbouring peaks.
Retrace your steps to the cairn, then head northeast down a path on the far side of the previously mentioned fence line. This brings you down to the main path around the hill, which this time takes you round the east of the peak.
A few large zigzags bring you to the front of Stac Pollaidh again, then back to car park (5km, 2hr–2hr30).
Alternatives
Avoiding the Ridge
An easy circular route of Stac Pollaidh can be made without gaining the ridge at all. To do this, take the left turn when the path divides to the north of the peak and continue round (3.5km, 400m).
6
Ben More Coigach (743m) and Sgurr An Fhidhleir (705m) ‘big hill of Coigach’, Coigach coming from the Gaelic coigeach, meaning ‘a fifth share of land’, in this case thought to mean a fifth of the then Cromarties; Sgurr an Fhidhleir translates literally as ‘peak of the fiddler’
| Start | GR 061 041 |
| Distance | 10km |
| Ascent | 900m |
| Time | 4hr |
| Terrain | A short route with some steep slopes and exposed sections of ridge. Stretches without paths make for some rough walking and the need for good navigation in poor visibility. |
| Maps | OS Landranger 15, OS Explorer 439 |
| Access | Ben More Coigach is located in its entirety within the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve. For up-to-date access information, contact 0131 312 7765. |
| Getting there | Park in a lay-by at Culnacraig, near the very end of the road that passes through Achiltibuie (061 041). There are some buses from Ullapool to Achiltibuie (Traveline Scotland 0871 200 22 33, www.travelinescotland.com). |
| Something else | Take a boat trip on the Hectoria from Achilitibuie to the seal colonies of the Summer Isles (01571 622200). |
Rising dramatically out of the sea, the Ben More Coigach range dominates the Coigach peninsula while remaining fairly unknown to walkers. The great ridge walk combined with some of the best views in the world make for a brilliant day out.
The long ridge to Ben More Coigach
Ben More Coigach is the highest peak on the peninsula that gives it its name. Together with its neighbour and subsidiary peak, Sgurr an Fhidhleir, it forms part of a stunning mountain massif.
Carved out of sandstone by glaciers, the peaks form part of the North West Highland Geopark. The first of its kind in Scotland, the geopark celebrates the unique geology, landscape and communities of the far northwest of Scotland. With the Ben More Coigach ridge dominating the view north from Ullapool, it is easy to see why it is geology to be celebrated.
The ridge ends abruptly, dropping dramatically to the sea, with the spectacular views out to the Summer Isles more famous than the peaks themselves. The Summer Isles, a collection of picturesque islands out to the west, when caught at sunset on a descent from Ben More Coigach and Sgurr an Fhidhleir, offer one of the best vistas there is.
While once widely inhabited by farmers, herring fishermen and even illicit whisky distillers, it is now only Tanera Mor, the largest of the Summer Isles, that still has a few occupants, though it is a very popular destination for day-trippers in the summer months.
History has played its part in shaping the landscape of the Coigach peninsula too. Visited or occupied at various times by Vikings, Bronze Age farmers and Picts, some evidence of these prehistoric settlers remains. Perched on a promontory not far from Ben More’s crags are the remains of the Pictish fort of Dun Canna.
More recently, the settlements of Achiltbuie, Culnacraig and others came into being as people crofted the land and fished off its shores. Perhaps surprisingly, the post office has played a role too. The current 10km path from Blughasary, and a potential route to Ben More Coigach, was formed by a hardy postman delivering the mail to Achiltibuie from Ullapool.
Route
From the car parking area walk left down the road to cross the bridge. Take a small path off to the left just after the bridge to climb steeply northeast (this path looks as if it is used by sheep more than people). At about 280m the path levels out and heads southeast towards Garbh Choireachan and the start of the ridge.
The path divides soon afterwards – go right to continue towards the ridge, contouring southeast still. The path disappears just before the gorge of the Allt nan Coisiche, or ‘walker’s burn’, but bear east along the burn to find a crossing place. Once across, head southeast again towards the end of the ridge. This is ascended on the west side by bearing east all the way to the top and making use of bits of sheep paths. While steep, and on some well-eroded rock, it is never too difficult.
Once on Garbh Choireachan (738m), follow the path along the hugely enjoyable ridge. It sticks to the west side to avoid some rockier sections, though there is the option of scrambling along the very top. This brings you to the summit of Ben More Coigach (743m) (094 042, 4km, 2hr). The view from here over to better-known neighbour Stac Pollaidh is spectacular and unique.
From the summit head northeast briefly until the gradient down to the left lessens, then head north diagonally down across short grass to the bealach (544m).
From the bealach the prominent peak of Sgurr an Fhidhleir (705m) (094 054, 6km, 2hr45) lies ahead. Climb northwest to gain the summit, and stunning views over its precipitous northern edge.
To return, head southeast, picking up a path that runs the length of the shoulder from the summit back to the junction where you originally turned right. This gentle descent allows you to take in the great view out over the sea to the Summer Isles. Once back on the original path, follow it back to the start (4hr, 10km).
Alternatives
One Peak Only
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