Cheviot Hills, Tweeddale, Ettrick Forest and the Tweedsmuir Hills, at levels below 1500ft (457m), are traversed either by farm tracks or grass-covered paths and invariably provide good dry walking. Above 1500ft (457m) conditions vary a great deal, from narrow dry traces over short and springy grass (as found on Hedgehope and Broad Law), to trenches of glutinous peat (the summit plateau of Cheviot).
Areas of wet peat do give the observant walker warning signals. Should a summit or ridge exhibit ‘legs’ of heather running down from the top (similar to a rich brandy sauce flowing over a Christmas pudding), beware, there are peat hags and wet conditions on the apex. Avoid patches of bright-green moss such as sphagnum or featherbed, as they invariably grow over wet-holes. Cotton grass and rushes also signal water underfoot and should be given a wide berth if possible. Bilberry, bents and molinia grass on the other hand signal dry paths, so choose your footwear accordingly.
Lightweight boots or well-soled walking shoes for the lower levels, middleweight leather boots for the higher levels, and leather, rigid-soled boots for scrambling and rock traverses are recommended. Footwear chosen wisely will shorten the journey – take the wrong option and the walk could be a disaster. The question of how many socks to wear is a matter of personal choice, the guideline – be comfortable.
Conditions Overhead
What to expect on the Border Hills and the Southern Uplands
The area, being situated in the eastern half of the country, is not prone to the excess precipitation experienced around Fort William or in the English Lakes. Nor does it suffer from severe cold due to high altitude, as the hills rarely exceed 2500ft (762m), although occasionally, when the air stream is from the northeast, the winds are known locally as ‘thin’. Hours of sunshine are also above the national average, but because of the latitude temperatures never become unbearable. You need clothes to keep you warm and dry in winter, and in summer choose loose-fitting garments made of natural fibres that breathe freely. Also take a hat to protect against the sun’s rays, and carry a large, filled waterbottle.
Two physical factors are of prime importance to the hill walker: temperature and moisture. If both are in balance and agreeable to the pedestrian then the walk will be a pleasure. Should that not be so, and the hiker is ill prepared and ill equipped, he or she is unwisely exposing him or herself to the twin risks of hypothermia and dehydration/heat exhaustion. Hypothermia can strike if the temperature of the body core drops below 37°C in continuous cold and wet conditions. Dehydration or heat exhaustion can be induced by exposing the body, and in particular the head, to excess heat, coupled with an inadequate liquid intake.
Wind is a major factor in deciding what to wear and can have a marked effect in both winter and summer on the Border hills. In winter there is always the threat of a chilling northeaster, so the wind chill factor must always be considered. An increase of 10mph in wind speed can reduce the temperature from 18°C to 7°C, or in colder conditions from 10°C to -13°C. Also bear in mind the lapse rate. The higher the climb, the lower the temperature – for every 1000ft (305m) there is a reduction of about 3°C.
Experienced and committed walkers are sure to carry their favourite talismans to protect them from the evil eye of the elements. For those not yet into the mystique of what’s in the walker’s sack (which should be lined with a binliner), let me list the essentials that are needed for high- and low-level walks in the Borders.
High Level
A windproof and waterproof anorak or cagoule, waterproof overtrousers or gaiters, a woolly hat (cotton in the summer), woollen gloves or mitts, and a survival bag. High-energy food (the average high-level walk in this guide will burn up 1500 calories above the normal metabolic rate), with a hot drink in winter and large filled waterbottle in summer. Emergency rations such as dried fruit, chocolate, glucose tablets, Kendal mint cake, or Christmas cake (in season) should be included for all high and long walks.
Low Level
Walking in summer at the lower levels, particularly in sheltered valleys, can induce heat exhaustion or dehydration if the walker is unprotected and exposed for long periods. A lightweight cotton hat with a floppy brim and a full waterbottle will provide all the protection needed. The debate of shorts versus long trousers generates much heat, but suffice to say that some walkers prefer cool, brown, scratched legs, while others prefer protected legs, albeit hot and white.
MAPS
The following maps cover the routes in this guide.
OS 1:25 000 Explorer: OL16 – The Cheviot Hills; 338 – Galashiels, Selkirk & Melrose
OS 1:50 000 Landranger, sheet nos.: 67 – Duns, Dunbar & Eyemouth; 72 – Upper Clyde Valley; 73 – Peebles, Galashiels & Selkirk; 74 – Kelso & Coldstream; 78 – Nithsdale & Annandale; 79 – Hawick & Eskdale; 80 – Cheviot Hills & Kielder Water; 81 – Alnwick & Morpeth
OS 1: 25 000 Pathfinder: 460 – Innerleithen; 474 – Jedburgh; 485 – Hawick & area; 486 – Chesters & Hownam
Harvey: 1:40,000 Superwalker – Cheviot Hills; 1:40,000 Walker’s Route – St Cuthbert’s Way; 1:40,000 Peebles Manor Hills & St Mary’s Loch
Forestry Commission – Scotland: Craik Forest Walks & Cycle Trails
This guidebook should also be carried at all times.
Safety
All the walks in the guide are designed primarily for the walker’s pleasure, but safety in the great outdoors is something we must still be aware of. A careless step into a rabbit scrape or on a loose stone could break a bone or tear a tendon, causing a major problem for the solitary walker. As many of the walks may be completed in total solitude, it is prudent to be familiar with emergency procedures and the equipment needed to minimise discomfort and aid rescue in the unlikely event of an accident occurring.
ACTION
1 Prevention is always better than cure, as advocated by two pedestrian giants of the past, Edward Whymper and A Wainwright, who both suggested ‘a walk or even a life could be ruined by careless placement of the feet’.
2 Solitude in the hills is to be prized and is much sought after, but from the safety angle solo walks are to be avoided, the ideal number being five walkers of a like mind and similar ability. Such perfection is rarely possible, however, so to reduce the risks observe a few simple guidelines and use that underemployed asset, common sense.
3 Always inform someone of your route and estimated time of return (ETR). If that is not possible, leave your route plan with details, i.e. destination, number in the party, colour of garments and ETR, in a visible position in the car. One school of thought regards this is an invitation to the car thief, but cars can be replaced when lost, whereas human life cannot.
4 Should you have the misfortune to be immobilised and require help, and you have access to a mobile phone, dial 999 for the police. On receiving full details of the accident and your position, they will call out the local mountain rescue team and coordinate the rescue operation. Should a mobile phone not be at hand, use the international rescue call – either six long blasts on a whistle or flashes with a torch, and repeat at one minute intervals. The reply is three short blasts at minute intervals. Should you be without whistle or torch, shout, using the same code. When waiting for help, use the terrain to gain protection from the elements. Shelter from wind and rain or snow, or the sun in summer, and utilise spare clothing and the survival bag (feet pointing to the wind) to maintain body temperature.
5 If a mobile phone is used to call 999, have a six figure map reference ready. Find this as follows: ‘eastings’ first, i.e. the
