later (often up to 8.00pm), but most will close for two to three hours in the early afternoon (note that boulangeries often close earlier in the day, and rarely have fresh bread in the late afternoon). A few farms in some rural areas may offer items such as cheese or honey for sale, but never rely on this. Some smaller and more remote settlements, which no longer have village shops, are served by mobile shops that travel the district once, twice or three times a week, and you may just be lucky to encounter one. Provisions may sometimes be bought from the guardian of a gîte d'étape, who may also provide you with a packed lunch if you request it in advance.
Water source in Saint-Michel (Stage 14)
Cyclists should carry water in frame-attached water-bottle carriers. There are water fountains in many of the villages and hamlets passed en route, and water bottles should always be filled when the opportunity arises. Daytime temperatures can be very high at times, particularly during July and August, and heat exhaustion and dehydration can develop rapidly during strenuous riding or walking. Always ensure that plenty of fluids are taken in, particularly in the southernmost sections of the trail, where shade cover is less and temperatures are generally higher.
It is always wise to assume that water taken from streams and rivers is unsafe to drink, particularly if there are cattle, sheep or goats in the vicinity. If in any doubt, add a water-purifying tablet to unboiled water, allowing at least 10 minutes for the chemicals to react before drinking. Water labelled ‘non potable’ is not suitable for drinking.
Equipment
Choice of Bike
For riding the GTMC, a mountain bike is essential – a hybrid off-road/on-road bike will not be robust enough for the variety of terrain encountered on this journey. Obviously the better quality the bike, the better – aiming for a light but strong frame, with suspension if possible – but if you only have a cheap bike, don't be deterred from attempting the route, provided the bike is in good condition and well maintained. Cyclists keeping to a road route across the Massif Central are best served by a good-quality touring bicycle.
It goes without saying that whichever you choose, it must be in a safe-to-ride condition, with an adequate braking system and a good range of working gears, particularly at the low end of the range. A good-quality cycling helmet should be worn at all times when mountain biking or road cycling (head injuries are all too common and often very serious in cycling accidents). Always replace an old helmet after a few years of use, and immediately after any accident.
Spares to carry should include a tyre repair kit, including tyre levers, a set of spanners/Allen keys/screwdrivers that fit your machine (a compact multi-tool is a good idea), chain and spoke tool, two spare inner tubes, two spare sets of brake pads and a spare brake/gear cable. A good-quality cycle lock, a bicycle pump and lubricant are also essential. You will need to make a decision on whether to take bicycle lights. If you go in summer when the days are long, there is no real need to carry lights, unless you intend riding back to your accommodation after dark from a restaurant or bar. However, it is essential to maintain high visibility to other road/trail users at all times, and particularly on public roads. Always wear bright colours, and consider using high-visibility reflective tabs and clothing.
Luggage
The next major decision relates to the method of carrying your equipment. Road cyclists will automatically choose panniers, but the mountain biker traditionally carries all his or her gear in a small backpack. This is fine for day riding, but the size and weight of the smallest backpack necessary, even when carrying the minimum of equipment, for a two- or three-week trip, is likely to be too much for comfort and safe riding.
It may be possible to carry part of your equipment in a small backpack, and the remainder securely strapped to a back pannier rack, so you don't need pannier bags. The problem with panniers on a mountain bike is the constant jolting of the bags over rough terrain, but most people would find it very difficult to carry enough gear without the use of back panniers. (Don't even think of front panniers – why so many cycle tourists find these necessary is beyond me. I have been on month-long camping cycle tours without the need for front panniers, carrying more than enough equipment on back panniers plus bar bag.)
If using panniers on your mountain bike, then be sure to fit the strongest, best-quality back pannier rack that you can afford – and fit it very firmly and securely. Make sure that the attachment mechanism for your panniers onto the pannier rack is a secure and safe one, and that it is not likely to work loose with constant jolting. The author used back panniers while riding the GTMC with satisfactory results, but you must be tolerant of the constant jolting of your luggage.
A good quality bar bag is an excellent idea for items to which you need constant access. Buy one with a map case attached, as reference to the route will be more frequent for the mountain biker than for the road cyclist. Remember that you will almost certainly have to carry your bike from time to time over difficult sections of the route, so it is important to not only keep the luggage weight down to a minimum (see below), but also ensure that it is balanced correctly on the bike. Finally, the author encountered a couple on the GTMC towing a specially designed luggage rack at the back of a mountain bike: even this coped with the rough terrain!
Packing Light
Whether mountain biking, road cycling or walking, the golden rule on a trip such as this, unless supported with a back-up vehicle, is to keep the panniers/pack weight down as low as possible, consistent with safety and comfort. This is particularly the case when mountain biking a long-distance route, where your luggage will have to cope with constant jolting over rough terrain.
Track outside Florac (Stage 10) (Alan Sides)
Packing light takes thought and time. Once you have assembled your basic gear, lay it out, weigh each item, and constantly ask yourself if you really need this or that. Keep a washing kit as small as possible, with a lightweight travel towel and only enough soap, toothpaste and shampoo to last you the trip. Take lightweight clothes wherever possible (this need not be expensive – Lidl and Aldi stores sell good-quality cycle clothing at very reasonable prices). You will not need many changes of basic clothing, as clothes can be washed each day and, in the usual weather conditions of southern France, should be dry by the morning. Cycling shorts and a lightweight top will be the general order of the day, but do make sure that you have the right gear to cope with extremes of weather. Although generally warm and often hot during the summer months, it can get very cold on the high-level plateau of the Massif Central, even in summer, particularly when a strong wind is blowing, and storms can produce a deluge of rain. Don't forget cycling gloves and a firstaid kit, and remember to leave enough space in your luggage for some food. To reiterate: think light, think safe.
Walkers should also think lightweight when packing for a traverse of the Massif Central. Size of pack will depend on whether camping gear is being carried – if you are relying on gîte d'étape and/or hotel accommodation, only a relatively small and light pack will be needed. (Over the years I have seen so many hikers struggling with enormous packs, invariably ending up at a post office to send unnecessary items home.) Good-quality lightweight boots are more than adequate for walking this trail.
Maps
The sketch mapping in this guidebook indicates the route of the GTMC, and shows key features, but is not detailed enough to allow the trail to be followed with certainty. This is particularly so in areas where navigation is not straightforward, and within the Cévennes National Park, where GTMC waymarking is not allowed, so you are strongly advised to equip yourself with the relevant mapping.
France's national mapping agency,
