and on to the Mediterranean coast at Sète, the end of the Stage 17, the GTMC carries no waymarking. However, this is not a problem, as a free city map, available from tourist offices, will allow easy navigation through Montpellier, and after that the route-finding along the Canal du Rhône is very straightforward.
It is important to be able to recognise the various other waymarking systems that are used to indicate routes in the French countryside. The standard waymarking used by the FFRP (Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre – see Appendix F, Useful Contacts) for long-distance GR trails consists of red and white paint flashes, with various arrangements of red and white lines signifying different instructions. Two sets of red/white marks appearing together indicate that a change of direction is imminent – this is often in the form of curved red and white markings pointing towards the new direction to be taken.
A painted cross, usually of one red and one white line, signals that the route is not in that direction – go back to pick up the correct trail. Remember also that all GR trails are waymarked with red and white flashes. In areas where two GR routes meet, or where a variant leaves the main route, care should be taken to follow the correct GR Trail. The GR65, which is encountered at Le Sauvage (Stage 7), is the trail to Santiago in Spain, and carries a stylised pilgrim's shell as well as the usual red/white waymarks.
Occasionally you will see other waymarks: GR de Pays are red and yellow, whereas PR trails are usually single yellow, or sometimes green or blue stripes. Orange waymarks are for horse-riding trails – they sometimes occur in the shape of a hoof-print.
Certain notices should also be understood. ‘Propriété privée’ or ‘Défense d'entrer’ means that the area is private and entry forbidden. The signs ‘Réserve du chasse’ and ‘Chasse privée’ do not refer to mountain bikers or walkers, but mean that hunting rights are reserved for the owner of the land.
Signposts showing the distance in kilometres to the next place on the route will also be encountered from time to time, These usually carry self-explanatory symbols indicating the location of a gîte d'étape, campsite, café or restaurant.
From time to time the route of a trail may change. This can be for a variety of reasons – to improve the route, to avoid problems such as a land slip or an eroded path, or sometimes at the request of a landowner. As time goes on, there may be changes to the line of the GTMC such that the route described in this guidebook is not always the one on the ground – if this is the case, always follow the waymarks rather than trying to find the route described here, until the original route is re-joined.
Training
Those who cycle (whether on a mountain bike or road bike) regularly, or walk in the hills of Britain, should have no difficulty on the GTMC. However, if you haven't taken any exercise for some time, a programme of training in the months preceding the trip would be sensible – an unfit person would find the ride or walk a great strain, and miss out on much of the enjoyment of the experience. Remember too that the three activities covered in this guidebook – mountain biking, road cycling and long-distance walking – use different muscles and require different skills, so be sure that you are well prepared for whichever method you choose to travel the GTMC.
Cyclists who have done little off-road mountain biking would be well advised to practise as much as possible on off-road routes, starting a minimum of six months before setting off on the GTMC. Begin with short rides, then full day rides, and finally a weekend or preferably week of off-road cycling. Get as much training as you can on moderately difficult terrain, where there are tree roots, muddy ruts and rough stones on the surface, and where some of the ascents/descents are steep. However, do not worry if your previous mountain biking experience is mainly confined to relatively easy off-road tracks. Take things easy, and never attempt a section on your bike of which you are unsure. In most cases, the length of the stages is such that there is time to complete the route in a day even if a fair percentage is walked.
The safest and most sensible option when faced with a difficult and/or potentially dangerous section is always to dismount and push the bike, and even this may not be that easy, so be sure to get plenty of practice pushing and riding a heavily laden bike over steep ground.
It is hard work pushing uphill (Stage 11)
Health
Perhaps the most common ailment that befalls travellers abroad is stomach upset or diarrhoea. Rest and light meals often provide the best cure, although a non-prescription medicine will help to ease the symptoms. Failure to correct stomach upsets can lead to weakness, dehydration and further complications.
Colds and other minor ailments are usually easily treatable with medication from a pharmacist (small supermarkets, grocers and newsagents in France do not usually stock medicines such as paracetamol, aspirin and cold relief powders), but it is advisable to include basic medications in a first-aid kit.
Over-exposure to the sun and heat stroke are other problems to be avoided at all costs. Always wear a helmet when cycling, but otherwise a sun hat, and sunglasses and high-factor sunscreen. If the weather becomes very hot, then set off early in the morning and have a long siesta during the heat of the day. Drink plenty of liquid to prevent dehydration, and cover exposed skin that is unused to a southern sun.
Mountain bikers should pay particular attention to the contents of their first-aid kit, ensuring that they have enough dressings and antiseptic to cope with the cuts and bad grazing that might result from a fall. Some means of strapping a limb until assistance is found is a good idea, and if you are travelling in a group, at least one member of the group should consider going on a first-aid course before the holiday.
Snakes
The European viper, or adder, is not uncommon in the Massif Central, and a bite, although unlikely to be fatal, would be exceedingly unpleasant. It could also have serious consequences in more sparsely populated regions, where help may not be quickly available. Vipers are less of a threat to the biker than to the walker (except of course when the former is pushing his or her bike, which no doubt will happen from time to time on the GTMC).
Fortunately, snakes are fairly secretive animals, likely to detect a walker's presence by vibrations along the ground and take avoiding action, but do keep a good lookout for them, in order to avoid accidentally treading on one. It is a good idea to be familiar with the markings of the European viper (dark green/black in colour with characteristic zigzag stripes on the upper surface), although the chances are that the GTMC will be completed without ever catching sight of even one.
A bite from a viper can result in considerable bruising, discolouration and swelling of the surrounding area, and in the unlikely event that you are bitten, be sure to rest, avoid a panic reaction, and get medical help as soon as possible.
Emergencies
The emergency services (medical help, police or fire brigade) can be reached by dialling 112. This service is staffed by French speakers, and they are unlikely to speak much English, but there is an ‘SOS Help’ service in English, which can be contacted by dialling 01.47.32.80.80, or from a UK mobile, 00.33.1.47.32.80.80 (it would be sensible to programme this into your mobile before you set off).
Language
The French, like the British, are not particularly keen on learning foreign languages. Many younger people can speak some English, but in general do not expect the level of fluency found in Holland, Germany or Scandinavia. This is particularly true of the rural areas of the Massif Central. It is a good idea to brush up ‘rusty’ French before the holiday, as even the most elementary grasp of the language will
