Stage 13 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or
Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Bourg d'Arud – 6–6½hrs
Accommodation
Accommodation is plentiful on the Tour of the Oisans, allowing a variety of other itineraries to be devised, although there are long sections of route where there's no habitation at all. There are hotels (usually ungraded, or one- or two-star), modestly priced gîtes d'étape and atmospheric mountain refuges (huts), most of the latter being situated in remote and romantic locations, which can add much to one's experience of the trek. Gîtes d'étape may be described as being on a par with private youth hostels, low-key and very relaxed, and geared to the needs of outdoor enthusiasts. The standard type of sleeping accommodation on offer – apart from in hotels – will be mixed dormitories. As meals are provided in virtually every case (on the rare occasions where this is not so, self-catering facilities are usually available), walkers can trek unencumbered by heavy rucksacks.
The Valsenestre gîte (Stage 8)
The chalet-style Refuge de la Muzelle (Stage 9)
HUT CONVENTIONS
In the region through which the Tour of the Oisans is trekked, the CAF (Club Alpin Française) – which owns most of the refuges – rules that accommodation must be booked in advance. Telephone numbers are given throughout this guide to enable you to phone ahead.
On arrival at a refuge remove boots and leave them (with your trekking poles) in the porch or boot room, and select a pair of special hut shoes or clogs usually provided – or wear your own trainers indoors.
Locate the gardien to announce your arrival, and book whatever meals are required.
When allocated bedspace go to the dormitory and make your bed, using the sheet sleeping bag carried for the occasion. Have a torch handy, as the room may not be lit when you need to go there after dark.
Snacks and drinks are normally available during the day, but meals are served at set times. Lunch food to carry with you is often available. Food should not be taken into dormitories.
It is customary to pay for all services (in cash only) the night before you leave.
Note that reductions on overnight fees are given to members of other European Alpine Clubs, and to BMC members who have purchased a reciprocal rights card.
How to Get There
By air
Air travel is notoriously vulnerable to change, so readers are advised to check the current situation either through a local travel agent, or by browsing the Internet.
Grenoble is the most convenient airport for the Oisans region, with low-price flights via Easyjet (from London Gatwick, Birmingham and Bristol), and Ryanair (from Stansted). To check the current timetables and availability visit www.easyjet.com and www.ryanair.com
Grenoble airport is just 30mins by bus from the city centre. Buses go directly to the central bus station (Gare routière), which is located next to the railway station.
By train
Modern high-speed trains offer a viable – albeit more expensive – alternative to air travel. Eurostar takes about 3hrs for the journey from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via the Channel Tunnel, and the TGV service connects Paris (Gare du Lyon) with Grenoble in 2hrs 55mins.
By local bus
In summer a daily, but infrequent, bus service carries passengers from Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans in 1hr 20mins. For information visit www.transisere.fr. The bus station in Bourg is located on the northern approach, a short walk from the town centre.
When to Go
With the likelihood of snow either lying on the highest cols or on the approach to them until early summer, the Tour of the Oisans should be avoided until at least the middle of July. Even then there will be some years when late snow or ice could create serious difficulties. Anyone planning to tackle the route before the end of July might consider carrying an ice axe – and know how to use it to halt an involuntary slide.
The peak summer holiday period in France usually falls between 15 July and late August, when there will be maximum competition for accommodation. If this is the only time you can take your holiday, plan well ahead and book your accommodation in advance. Although the area attracts plenty of summer visitors, the number of walkers tackling the Tour of the Oisans does not compare with those on the Tour of Mont Blanc, but individual trails – such as those across the Plateau d'Emparis and around the Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – are likely to be busy compared with some of the more remote sections of the route.
Early September often sees the most settled weather, although the effects of climate change now make predictions unreliable. September will certainly have fewer visitors and there will be long periods without any other trekkers in view. Refuges and gîtes should be much quieter, except at weekends, and a few late varieties of alpine flowers will brighten the meadows.
The Vallée du Valgaudemar lies 1500m below the Col de la Vaurze (Stage 7)
In some years an Indian summer spreads into October to bring crisp frosty nights and sharp blue-sky days. Although difficult to predict in advance, this could be a magical time to make the trek round the Oisans. However, accommodation would be a problem, for some of the valley hotels would have closed and refuge gardiens will have deserted the high places, leaving only a winter room open for visitors who would need to provide all their own food. On the other hand, most gîtes d'étape remain open for most, if not all, the year.
To summarise: the safest time (weather and accommodation-wise) to tackle the Tour of the Oisans is from mid-July to the middle of September.
Notes for Walkers
As has already been stressed, the Tour of the Oisans is tougher and more demanding than most other multi-day treks in Europe, and although it is a walk which requires no technical mountaineering skills, scrambling ability, sure-footedness and a good ‘head for heights’ (no history of vertigo) will be called for. The Massif des Écrins is one of the most challenging of Alpine environments, and no one should accept the challenge of this route lightly.
Most of the trails are clearly defined, straightforward and well maintained. But there are also numerous narrow and exposed sections on which great care should be exercised. Even the most undemanding of paths can become hazardous when transformed by rain, snowmelt or a glaze of ice, and several stages travel through rough and remote country where a minor accident could have serious consequences.
Happily, the frequency of accommodation with meals provided effectively limits the need to carry a heavy rucksack (unless you plan to camp along the way). Even so, the very first stage offers a brutal introduction to the Tour of the Oisans,
