from the route do yourself a favour and get ‘mountain fit’ before leaving home. The most effective way of doing this is by walking uphill (as much uphill as possible), carrying a rucksack.
A warning to walkers seen near Refuge de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
Once you've begun the trek don't be intimidated by the steepness of the way ahead, or by the perceived difficulties of the next col to be crossed. Remain alert to possible dangers, but as you do so settle into a comfortable pace and take time to soak up the views, the sounds and scents of the journey. Make your Tour of the Oisans an experience of the senses that you can recall years later. Unless the weather is threatening, or you are running short of time, allow yourself a few minutes every hour or so to sit on a rock and contemplate the peace and natural beauty that are among the gifts of this route. You'll not regret it.
Clear signing in the Vallon de Chambran (Stage 4)
Please be considerate when making a toilet stop during the day. Keep well away from water sources, burn used toilet paper, and bury faeces as effectively as possible. Remote buildings or ruins should not be used as public conveniences; they could serve as a shelter from storm for yourself and other walkers. Please leave no litter, but take packaging with you for proper disposal in a village en route.
Equipment
The choice of clothing and equipment for a trek like this can be crucial to your comfort and enjoyment. Weight will be an important factor. Carry too much and the uphills will seem longer and steeper and you will quickly tire, so think carefully and pare your load down to the very minimum. With plenty of versatile, durable lightweight equipment available (if you can afford it), there's no point in using a heavier alternative.
Unless you're camping you can dispense with a conventional sleeping bag, but a sheet sleeping bag (sleeping bag liner) should be used in gîtes and mountain refuges where blankets and pillows are provided. Silk bags are much lighter and pack smaller than the cotton variety. One complete change of clothing should suffice, for you can usually wash and dry clothes overnight, and you ought to be able to keep your rucksack weight down to around 8–10kg. (During my latest walking of the Tour of the Oisans I met Judith Armstrong who, that year, trekked almost 6500km in the Alps carrying a base load of some 5kg.)
The descent to Le Désert rewards with a view of peaks guarding the upper Valjouffrey (Stage 7)
The following list is offered as a rough guide to what you need to take. Non-essential items, which you might consider taking, include a camera (essential to some, so keep it lightweight) and a notebook and pen to record your experiences. More and more walkers opt for a GPS, so if you are one of these you will no doubt want to carry one. An altimeter could be useful. Trainers or sandals may be considered for indoor wear in hotels, gîtes and mountain refuges, and a mobile phone for emergencies – but note that it may be unusable on large sections of the route, and you may have difficulty recharging it. Many walkers like to have a paperback novel to read, although I prefer nothing to distract my attention from the 24hr, seven-days-a-week experience of the trek.
WHAT TO TAKE
Good footwear is of prime importance. Lightweight boots should fit well, be comfortable, provide sound ankle support and have thick cleated soles (Vibram or similar) with plenty of grip.
Socks – make sure they meet your needs, and change them daily to avoid discomfort.
Waterproofs are essential, not only for rain protection but also to double as windproofs. Lightweight jacket and overtrousers made from a ‘breathable’ fabric are recommended, as is a small collapsible umbrella (indispensable for those who wear glasses).
Even in midsummer wintry conditions can be experienced above 2000m on sunless or windy days, so a fleece or pile jacket ought to be included, plus a warm hat and gloves. Note that one of the simplest and most effective ways of regulating body temperature is either to put on or remove your hat and gloves.
As well as protection against wet and cold, you need to be prepared for extremes of sunshine and heat – the intensity of UV rays increases by 10 percent with every 1000m of altitude gained. A brimmed hat, high-factor suncream, lipsalve and sunglasses should therefore be taken. Wear lightweight layers that can be removed easily in hot weather.
Carry a compact first aid kit, water bottle (1 litre minimum capacity), guidebook, map, whistle, compass, and a small torch with spare bulb and battery. Also a light penknife and emergency food.
Take a lightweight towel and basic personal toiletries (plus toilet paper and lighter), and a sheet sleeping bag for use in gîtes and refuges.
Telescopic trekking poles have numerous uses, will not only aid balance on some trails or when crossing streams, but will also ease the strain on legs during the many steep descents.
Your rucksack should fit comfortably, with the waistbelt adjusted to take the weight and eliminate unnecessary movement when walking. It ought to be possible to keep the weight of your equipment down to an absolute maximum of 10kg. A waterproof cover is highly recommended, and a large polythene bag in which to pack your gear inside the rucksack will safeguard items from getting damp in the event of bad weather. A selection of plastic bags of assorted sizes will also be useful.
An ice axe should be carried if you plan to walk the Tour of the Oisans at the start of the season when snow and/or ice may be encountered.
The standard GR waymark followed throughout the trek
The X indicates that the route does not go this way
Above Bourg d'Arud, local signs have been adapted for the GR54
Recommended Map
The Carte de Randonnées hiking map, A6 Écrins, published by Rando Éditions at 1:50,000 should be more than adequate for trekkers walking the Tour of the Oisans. The standard of cartography and artistic representation are excellent, although the rate of glacial recession is a challenge for every new edition. Based on the official survey by the IGN (Institut Géographique National), the route of GR54 and its variantes are outlined in red. Refuges and most gîtes d'étape are also clearly marked, while the boundaries of the Parc National des Écrins are delineated with a bold green outline.
The map has a 2km square grid and is GPS compatible, and below the Key a number of useful telephone numbers are given – but make sure you have the latest edition, or some of these might be out of date.
Safety in the Mountains
Mountains contain a variety of objective dangers for the unwary, and the Massif des Écrins (around which the tour makes its circuit) is no exception. Without overstating the risk factor it should be borne in mind that with a number of narrow and exposed paths, as well as some extremely steep ascents and descents to negotiate, a high degree of concentration will be called for, even under good conditions. A moment's carelessness could have serious repercussions.
