or 3000m level.
Making a selection of ‘the biggest and best’ seemed appropriate for this book (Appendix D lists the highest). But imagine the task if trying to pick out and detail 50 peaks in the Alps. As detail deadens rather than inspires, it was decided to describe the peaks from a personal perspective – to give first-hand accounts of their challenges – and to present them not as a tick-list but within the context of rewarding treks. I want to tell it as it was, to beguile others into emulation, and I have something of a moral obligation to do so, because nobody else can. Some peaks are most easily described in pairs or groups, so I’ve sneaked past the original concept of a neat 50.
The escape climb out of the Wandras gorge (Route 16)
My own wanderings have never been systematic. Time and again we would finish one trek/peak with most of the group demanding a return for some attractive continuation, while, at the same time, there was the lure of exploring completely new places. But isn’t this just what happens on the hills of home? Whoever did the Munros systematically?
The mountains are described in this book from north-east to south-west, as the general line of the mountains run, with a brief note on the southern ranges and Rif at the end. The southern ranges (the Anti Atlas, Jbel Sarho and Sirwa) do have adequate guidebook descriptions elsewhere.
I don’t know how often people ask me to give them ideas for a two-week Morocco visit. Of course they want to trek a bit, climb Toubkal, see the desert, ski, swim in warm seas and visit the cities of Fes and Marrakech. It is equivalent, I suppose, to someone wanting to visit the UK and see English cathedral cities, climb Ben Nevis, and see St Kilda, London, Shetland and the Irish islands, all in two weeks. Relax! And don’t even consider heading off for Toubkal the day after you fly in to Marrakech. Morocco can be such a tonic because, besides the exotic and the excitement, there is also a gentle timeless quality to life still. Westerners don’t realise how much of a pressure-cooker existence they endure. By operating as described, I watch group after group slowly relax and get in touch with reality again.
Two weeks? Then do one of the peaks or trips described in this book, then fit in Toubkal quickly (you’ll be fit by then) and end with two days at Essaouira. You’ll be back for more. Starting with Toubkal and ending up lying at the hut in the misery of altitude sickness is a very poor alternative – but I see it all the time. Taking time to reach and climb any of the big mountains allows one to become acclimatised, both to altitude and the heat and effort required in the Atlas. I don’t know why, but people who would never dream of attempting a 4000m summit in the Alps as soon as they arrive think it perfectly OK to do so in Morocco. The result is often distressing and, of course, potentially dangerous. Both altitude sickness and heatstroke are worth avoiding.
With the big push to get pistes (dirt tracks) or goudrons (surfaced/tarmac roads) and electricity into as many mountain villages as possible many pleasant old mule tracks are being destroyed. Most valleys, however, will have mule tracks or paths on both flanks, so one can walk on the friendlier side. Resist walking on pistes – they are hard and hot on the feet and enervating for the soul. It isn’t possible to keep tabs on all such recent developments, so this is a general warning.
Getting there and getting around
One blessing of the last few years is the availability of cheap flights. The national line Royal Air Maroc has their own cheaper version in Atlas Blue, and firms like Easyjet, Ryanair and Thompson operate out of Gatwick, Heathrow or Luton and elsewhere in the UK. Marrakech is the main destination (and the best for the Atlas), and some flights go to Agadir. In Morocco there’s a good rail system, and where it ends railway-run express buses take over (Supratours). There are plenty of inter-town bus services, and when the tarmac (goudron) runs out there are camions (lorries) and camionettes (pick-ups), which we have often used. Hiring Land Rovers is very expensive in comparison, but may be worth paying for to make certain of a remote rendezvous.
Village transport, Atlas style
Once you learn the ropes you’ll find the travel system in Morocco surprisingly efficient. For example, you could leave Essaouira on the coast, catch the morning train from Marrakech, be in Tangier by evening and cross the Straits to sleep in Spain the same night. (I doubt if in the UK it would be possible to leave Kinlochbervie and make Calais in one day by public transport overland.)
Nationals from the UK, the EU and most Commonwealth countries do not require a visa (others should check). As a tourist you are allowed a three-month stay (it’s in the small print usually, so most people don’t realise this, but few are staying for so long anyway). Stay longer and you’ll find yourself in the coils of the bureaucratic monster, the first requirement being seven passport photographs.
Bureaucracy
Morocco loves its bureaucracy – after all, they were French taught (when the French left Morocco they had four times as many civil servants for the country as the British had for India). In remote areas local headmen may want your particulars, occasionally the police may too, and, of course, hotels require them for the dreaded registration fiche, which must be completed for every member of the party on arrival at each hotel. So prepare a sheet with each person’s name, address, home telephone number, e-mail, passport number and date of issue and expiry, place and date of birth, date of entering Morocco, profession, next of kin’s name, relationship, address and telephone number, and leave room for the number stamped in passports on arrival! You can hand it over at hotels and tell them to fill in the fiche. If you are in a group this form is also a useful contacting sheet. Next of kin details wil not be needed with luck, but one commercial outfit was rightly criticised when one trekker had a serious accident and the organiser did not know who to get in touch with.
Local guides
I have found local guides to be invaluable in my wanderings in the Atlas. In fact, this book is dedicated to El Aouad Ali, a remarkable Berber from the Western Atlas who has been the kingpin in almost all my major ventures – and on the often-mentioned GTAM95 – which would not have been contemplated without his skills. The great thing, too, is that he speaks English as well as French, Arabic and the Atlas Berber languages.
Aït Idir Mohammed and El Aouad Ali, the author’s most constant helpers
Many years ago I spent some time looking for ways up the Jbel Kest in the Anti Atlas because the first trekking company going into the area wanted to make an ascent part of their programme. Everyone had assumed the Kest to have the highest summit in the Anti Atlas. Later I realised Aklim was higher and I mentioned to Ali that some of us would head for it next spring. In the months before we came, he explored the area, found camp sites, local facilities and a route up the mountain. He is that sort of Atlas enthusiast – and a delightful person – and an expert organiser. I really do recommend getting in touch with him and making use of his experience to organise transport, mules and anything else. Take all the worries out of the enjoyment!
In any description in this book I have mentioned the local help we used, and more on this can be gleaned from Appendix E. All the best professional guides maintain a network of contacts everywhere. Naturally I’ve used the same people again and again, so don’t hesitate to mention these tried and tested guides. Through their training schemes there are now hundreds of trained, certificated guides (beware of ‘faux guides’), with offices in major places including Imlil, Ouarzazate, the Bou Guemez, Tinerhir and Boumalne des Dadès.
Local language and culture
I deeply regret not learning more Arabic or Tamazight
