really. The word is of the Roman period. The people prefer ‘Amazigh’, the free people. French is the main European language spoken/understood, with English a poor second. Some Berber and many French words are universally used for practical communication, regardless of speakers’ nationalities. These are fully listed in Appendix A. They may be translated on their first appearance in the book, but are not given italics.
The walls of Taroudant
Names of all types are inseperable from local lore and culture. As with Gaelic, many names translate interestingly, while others are so murdered in translation as to be beyond recognition. Having our regular guide Ali along, we often gain fascinating background information. As one wanders more extensively other aspects catch the imagination. People’s clothing, for instance, has local and tribal variations, and the architecture, always impressive, can also have noticeable differences.
Village girls in the Western Atlas
But, if nothing else, it is the people who will lure me back (as long as possible), for they are hardy, brave, ingenious, friendly and openly hospitable. Family life is strong, their culture and traditions are maintained, and values are held which we have lost in the greedy West, whose polluting ways will yet contaminate this bastion of free people.
Health and safety
The Atlas is one of the healthiest of mountain ranges. There aren’t as many microscopic or creepy-crawly nasties as in some other ranges. Take elementary precautions and you’d be unlucky to pick up anything really bad. At habitation level don’t drink stream water; giardia is possible. In the south avoid contact with still waters; bilharzia is possible. High sources (springs) are clean, and in habited areas you can buy bottled water or consume drinks made with boiling water. Over the years we’ve all drunk mint teas offered, sometimes in pretty unhygienic places, without coming to harm – and the food offered, such as tagine, is long cooked and usually safe.
Shopping at Talat-n-Yacoub souk (Route 34)
I’ve seen a whole season of various groups trekking for three months with no upset tummy. And when they do get it, it is often in some city or hotel setting, not sprawled in a mess tent in the wilds. One thing I do insist on is that everyone uses Wet Wipes, or some such, on their hands before meals. An upset tummy can feel pretty awful, a night of the runs and vomiting is no joy, but 24 hours later all is well again and, oddly I always feel, it is often only one person in a group who is hit. There never seems to be a common cause. Well before departing for Morocco check with your doctor about whatever precautionary injections are recommended.
On bottled water, can I make an appeal to buy only those labelled ‘natural spring water’ – look out for names like Sidi Ali, Sidi Harazen and Aïn Saïss (Aïn means ‘spring’ and Sidi suggests a sacred site, which might well be a source). I emphasise this because the Coca Cola Company is selling bottled Casablanca water and undercutting the price of everyone else – which is morally abhorrent. I’ve seen the Sidi Ali site (which is also the source of Oulmès, the sparkling spring water), which employs and has created a whole village of families (600 people) in the middle of nowhere. I don’t want to see them destroyed. So avoid Ciel and any other bottled waters that betray their origins with the label ‘Table Water’ (Eau de Table).
The Imejdag gorge approach to Jbel Tigounatine (Route 13)
There are no midges in the Atlas, and I’ve had far worse encounters with flies in the North Pennines. Snakes and scorpions there are, but many trekkers never see any. Snakes take off at the approach of humans, and scorpions, like snakes, tend to be localised. Some areas have them; most don’t. (Nobody really knows why.) If an area is prone to these I mention the fact. Being observant should be a habit – don’t put fingers under boulders, look before you sit (most vegetation is prickly), clear the ground round the tent, zip the door at night, and check inside boots before putting them on. In over 40 years of Atlas expeditions involving over a thousand people nobody has been stung by scorpion or struck by snake. So they’re not a big deal.
There is no regular mountain rescue service, as there is in Europe. In extreme cases a military helicopter might be called in to help, but it could take some time to get word out – this is less of a problem now, as even in the Atlas mobile phones usually work. In emergency situations the authorities at all levels will do their best to help. But, because the Atlas is so wild and rough, often remote and challenging, people seem consciously or unconsciously to take extra care. It is important to have some effective insurance cover, such as that on offer through the British Mountaineering Council.
Titoula’s terraces below the Tastwiyt peaks (Route 22)
As there is so much in the news about trouble spots these days, I am frequently asked about safety in the Atlas, and try to allay any fears along those lines. Even in Marrakech the women in our party wander off into the alleys and souks without giving it a thought. Of course they are dressed and behave appropriately. Neither men nor women should go out in shorts and T-shirts, as it is offensive to local people. The British have a strange thing about taking off clothes in the sun. This might do in hot, sticky climates, but in dry heat one covers up (notes about gear and equipment are in Appendix C). The Tuaregs in the desert are enveloped in flowing robes, with only their eyes showing. And as for terrorist bombs, you are much more at risk in the UK.
Maps
Maps are a problem. The Atlas ranges are all covered at a scale of 1:100,000 (maps at this scale are referenced as ‘100’ in this book, with the sheet name, see Appendix B) and some are covered at 1:50,000 (referenced as ‘50’ plus the sheet name), but the mapping is very old. This may not matter for the delineation of the landscape, but all human infrastructure is woefully out of date. These maps are very hard to purchase (but see Appendix B, for possible suppliers). Obtain what you can, but go regardless.
Jbel Oukaïmeden, the skiing mountain next to Angour (Route 31)
Maps may not be as vital as one might presume. Working from a good map of the country (Michelin, Hallwag, World Map/Geo Center, Freytag & Berndt, Rough Guide, etc), the vital Mgoun Massif West Col map (referenced as ‘MM’ in this book), the more available Toubkal area maps, plus map sketches in Peyron or Fougerolles (see Appendix B), and closely reading texts (including this book), means one can manage quite happily.
As well as any maps, the wise will have a knowledgeable local along (see Appendix E) and/or glean information from muleteers and locals. In addition, good visibility (usually!) makes life much easier – allowing hill sense to make the obvious correct decisions – and is essential for those going into the mountains without a map at all. In all my years in the Atlas I’ve used a compass only twice. (If it is bad enough to need one, you’re just not going anywhere!)
The spelling on maps can vary, as can the heights, so any inconsistencies between this book and published maps is unavoidable. (In the text, the height given for any peak may be followed by a second height in brackets, which is an alternative figure fairly often encountered, so may help to pinpoint the peak.) As long as a mountain name is near enough and recognisable, go with it – Zawyat Ahancal, Zaouie Ahansal and Zawit Ahansal is one example of this type
