Scotland’s Western Highlands and the western coast of Norway each receive on average only 3000mm per year!) Fortunately, the average annual precipitation in other inland mountain areas is more reasonable (1750mm on Durmitor, for example).
On the coast and in the coastal mountains, rain falls almost entirely during the winter (usually from November). In the mountainous areas further inland, precipitation is somewhat more evenly distributed throughout the year.
When to visit
On balance then, the best time to visit the mountains of Montenegro is June to September. Durmitor, Komovi, Prokletije and the other high, inland mountain areas will all be at their best at this time. Snow patches will linger well into the summer in some areas, particularly on northern slopes, and in some areas you will find snow all year. Wild flowers will be at their most plentiful in June to July. By late summer some of the smaller lakes and tarns will have dried up. Winter brings spectacular snow conditions for those prepared. August is very hot on the coast, and this is not the best time to visit Orjen or Lovćen.
Bobotov kuk from Trojni prevoj (Route 7)
However, like any mountains truly worthy of the long hours you might spend climbing them, those in Montenegro are full of suprises and often enjoy confounding even the most detailed weather forecast. Make sure you bring adequate warm clothing and a waterproof jacket, whatever time of year you choose to visit.
Cloud in the Grbaja Valley
Vegetation and wildlife
The plant-life of the Balkans is richer than any comparable area in Europe.
Oleg Polunin, Flowers of Greece and the Balkans (Oxford, 1980)
Mediterranean and mountain plants
The number of plant species in the Balkan peninsula has been estimated at well over 6500 – a figure that includes numerous endemics and several relicts that have survived from before the last Ice Age.
Along the Montenegrin coast, some typical species include Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), holm oak (Quercus ilex), funeral cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), wild olive (Olea europaea) and other low shrubs or maquis. On the steep mountain slopes and karst areas above, these rapidly give way to species such as white oak (Quercus pubescens), holly oak (Quercus coccifera), hop-hornbeam (ostrya carpinifolia) and hardy scrub or garrigue. Flowering plants in these areas include thyme (Thymus striatus), common sage (Salvia officinalis) and several species of crocus. Among the endemic species found in such areas are Moltkia petraea, Petteria ramentacea, Globularia cordifolia, Lonicera glutinosa and Tanacetum cinerariifolium or ‘Dalmatian powder’ – better known as pyrethrum.
Inland, the lower reaches of valleys and canyons are characterized by deciduous forest including ash (Fraxinus excelsior) and various species of oak. At higher levels these increasingly give way to beech (Fagus silvatica) and then conifers. Canyons may also contain a number of Tertiary relicts.
The mountain slopes of inland Montenegro are dominated by coniferous, beech or mixed forest. Species include Norwegian spruce (Picea abies), silver fir (Abies alba), Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), beech (Fagus silvatica), birch (Betula pendula) and maple (Acer heldreichii). Black pine (Pinus nigra), and the massive Munika or Heldreich pine (Pinus heldreichii) and its subspecies the Bosnian pine (Pinus leucodermis), are also found. Rich sub-alpine pastures and grasslands extend above the tree line, as do areas of scrub, sometimes dotted with juniper (including Juniperus communis). Upper mountain slopes are characterized by hardy, low thickets of dwarf mountain pine (Pinus mugo), known locally as planinski bor, above which typically rises an area of bare rock.
The high grasslands are rich in flowers such as milkworts (including Polygala major), flaxes (including Linum capitanum), violets (Viola calcarata) and gentians (including Gentiana acaulis and Gentiana utriculosa), together with saxifrage (Saxifraga adscendens), black vanilla orchid (Nigritella nigra) and various species of sage and thyme. Blueberries grow in profusion during the summer months. In rockier areas and on screes, species include valerian (Valeriana montana), ranunculus (Ranunculus sartorianus), alpine toadflax (Linaria alpine), alpine rock-cress (Arabis alpine) and drypis (Drypis spinosa). Snowbells (Soldanella alpina) and mountain avens (Dryas octopetala) are found among the melting snowfields. Flowers endemic to Montenegro and adjacent areas of the Balkans include Verbascum durmitoreum, Centaurea kotschyana and Pimpinella serbica.
A large stand of black pine, near Mojkovac
Dalmatian pelicans (Pelicanus crispus) in flight. Pančeva oka special reserve, Lake Skadar national park
The Montenegrin mountains are rich in alpine flowers, best seen in June or July
The best months to see the flowers are June and July.
Mammals
The brown bear (Ursus arctos) survives in Montenegro in small numbers (estimated at some 125 individuals in 2000). Not surprisingly, its distribution is limited mostly to the remotest mountain areas of the north and east. Encounters between humans and bears are very rare. The grey wolf (Canis lupus) is also said to inhabit some of the more remote mountain areas, but again, sightings are rare. Since its reappearance in the 1960s–70s, there have been scattered sightings of the Eurasian lynx (Lynx lynx), although it is established in greater numbers over the Albanian border. Unfortunately, the population of this rare mammal appears to be in decline in the Balkans.
Other mammals include wild boar (Sus scrofa), red deer (Cervus elaphus), roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra), pine martin (Martes martes), forest dormouse (Dryomys nitedula) and common dormouse (Glis glis).
Reptiles and amphibians
The nose-horned viper (Vipera ammodytes), known locally as poskok, is found in the Dinaric Alps, including Montenegro. Its venom is highly poisonous (see ‘Safety in the Mountains’, below, for snake-bite treatment). Adult specimens are typically less than 60cm in length, but may sometimes grow to 90cm. A subspecies found in Montenegro (Vipera ammodytes meridionalis) is smaller. Nose-horned vipers are either light grey or brownish copper, with a dark black zigzag pattern along the back, and are recognizable by the prominent soft horn at the end of their snout. They prefer dry, rocky hillsides, but may also be found under low bushes or around dry stone walls, and even on rock faces. The common viper, or adder (Vipera berus), known locally as šarka or šarulja, is also found, together with the subspecies Vipera berus bosniensis. (It is perhaps worth mentioning that both the nose-horned Viper and the common viper also occur in other, more frequently visited parts of Europe. For example, the former is found in northern Italy, while the latter is also found in the UK.) Another species of viper, Orsini’s viper (Vipera ursinii), is considerably more docile. Other species of snake include the large whip snake (Coluber caspius), Balkan whip snake (Coluber gemonensis), Dahl’s whip snake (Coluber najadum) and the cat snake (Telescopus fallax).
A number of lizards are common, including the Balkan green lizard (Lacerta trilineata), which grows up to 40cm in length, green lizard (Lacerta viridis), Mosor rock lizard (Lacerta mosorensis), Balkan wall lizard (Podarcis taurica), Dalmatian algyroides (Algyroides nigrop-unctatus), sharp-snouted rock lizard (Lacerta
