stock was highlighted by a major rail crash in early 2006, just north of Podgorica.
For timetables and further information, see www.zcg-prevoz.me and Appendix C.
Taxi
Organizing a taxi from the end of a bus route to the start of a walk will be necessary for some of the routes in this guide (for example from the village of Kolašin to the beginning of the walk on Komovi, Route 11). This is straightforward enough, and if there are no taxis visible you can ask someone in a National Park office, shop or kiosk, who is almost certain to know someone with a car who is prepared to take you, for a reasonable price. You may need to know a few words or phrases in Serbian to explain where you want to go. Where relevant, details of where to ask and how much you should expect to pay are given in the transport information at the beginning of each route. Prices are quite reasonable: Andrijevica to Veruša via Treškovac (approximately 60km) shouldn’t be more than €40, Podgorica city centre to airport €10.
Hitching
Hitching is perfectly acceptable in the mountains (you may have less luck on the coast), and may provide a convenient way of getting between some of the more remote walks in this guide and the nearest bus stop. However, remember that hitching can never be recommended as entirely safe, particularly for women travelling alone.
WARNING – CROSS-BORDER TRAVEL
Although travel within Montenegro is perfectly safe, visitors are strongly advised against straying over the border into neighbouring countries (with the exception of those itineraries detailed within this guide, and established cross-border routes such as the Peaks of the Balkans trail in Prokletije and the Via Dinarica route from Bioč into Sutjeska National Park in Bosnia) – however attractive various trans-Balkan mountain walks may appear on the map. In particular, the presence of landmines in Bosnia-Hercegovina and certain areas of Croatia should discourage walkers and mountaineers from crossing between these countries and Montenegro except at established border crossings. There are also rumours of landmines over the Albanian border, and the border areas between Kosovo and Montenegro may also carry the risk of unexploded ordnance, while Kosovo remains one of the least stable areas in Europe, and the eastern part of Lake Skadar is a popular smuggling route.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Montenegro range from large hotels to small family-run pensions, and hostels, as well as private rooms (sobe) and apartments (apartmani). You will often be approached at bus stations and other public places by people offering private rooms or apartments. In these cases try to get a clear idea of exactly what’s on offer before going to look at a room: how far it is from the centre of town, the price (and whether this is per person, or for the room), whether you are expected to share the room if travelling alone. Rates vary between high and low season, and may be more if you stay fewer than three nights. Rates in pensions and hotels generally include breakfast; those for private rooms and apartments do not.
A brief selection of recommended pensions, hotels and private rooms in towns relevant to this guide is given in Appendix C. Details of mountain huts and camping are given in the ‘Walking in Montenegro’ section, below.
Money
Currency
Montenegro may not be in the EU, but its official currency has nevertheless been the Euro since 2002. Croatian kunas or Serbian dinars are best changed before you get here.
Costs
Costs in Montenegro are higher than they should be in a country trying to attract more foreign visitors though lower than in neighbouring Croatia and still reasonable for most Western visitors. Staying in hotels will prove the biggest drain on your budget. Restaurants and public transport are relatively cheap. Below are some sample prices: cup of coffee (espresso) 70c, simple meal (such as a portion of ćevapćići and šopska salata) €5.50, main meal in restaurant (such as grilled fish, side dish, salad) €10+, bottle of local wine in supermarket €2–10, glass of local beer €1.50c, loaf of bread 50c, short bus journey (Podgorica to Virpazar) €2.50, national park entry €2.
Krošnja, a high, glaciated cirque in Prokletije (Route 15)
Carrying money
Montenegro is a fairly safe country in which to travel by most standards. However, be aware that the local economy is in tatters, unemployment is high and an average local salary only about €500 per month after tax. Avoid tempting fate (or more particularly, theft) by carrying money in a money-belt and not waving expensive-looking cameras and great wads of cash around.
ATMs, credit cards and changing money
ATMs (bankomat) can now be found increasingly widely in Podgorica and other large towns, but are less common in smaller towns away from the coast and are most likely absent from villages in the mountains. Pounds sterling (funte) and other currencies can also be exchanged at exchange offices and at most banks. Credit cards are accepted in the majority of hotels (not usually for private rooms), as well as in larger shops and supermarkets.
Staying in touch
Telephones
The international dialing code for Montenegro is 00 381.
Some local dialing codes (remember to omit the zero if calling Montenegro from abroad) are:
Cetinje, Budva 086
Herceg Novi 088
Kotor, Tivat 082
Mojkovac 084
Plav 0871
Podgorica, Kolašin 081
Nikšić 083
Žabljak, Pljevlja 0872.
Phone cards can be bought in newspaper kiosks.
Mobiles
Mobile phones with roaming (that is, almost any new mobile phone) will work fine in Montenegro.
Internet
Internet cafés can be found in most major cities and tourist centres, including Žabljak.
Walking in Montenegro
There is an ever-growing number of websites devoted to tourism in Montenegro, many of them far richer in hyperbole than in any practical information for the visitor, let alone the mountain walker.
The best online source of information on walking in Montenegro is to be found at www.summitpost.org (choose ‘Mountains and Rocks’ and search for ‘Montenegro’). The site contains a wealth of material, including photos, on mountain areas in Montenegro. Although there are some inaccuracies, it provides a valuable resource.
A more extensive list of websites is given in Appendix C.
Where to start?
With its spectacular scenery, well-marked trails and convenient local transport, Durmitor (Routes 6–8) will almost certainly be at the top of your agenda in Montenegro. Komovi (Route 11) is another wonderful area, very compact
