The Cape Wrath Trail. Iain Harper

      River Oykel, near its source (Stage 10)

      River crossings are one of the greatest hazards on this route. In normal conditions, most mountain streams and rivers in Scotland are wide and shallow, with pebbly bottoms, making them relatively safe and easy to wade across where there are no bridges (a common occurrence given the remoteness of much of the trail). But a small burn that can be easily crossed in dry weather can quickly turn into a dangerous torrent after sustained rain. Crossing rivers and streams at the wrong time, in the wrong place can and does kill people and this unpredictability makes it impossible to provide warnings for all crossings. The route has been designed to avoid crossings that are known to be dangerous in very wet conditions. Potentially tricky crossings are noted but you should assume that all river crossings in wet weather will be more difficult and factor this into your timing and route planning.

      After a long day in rough country, particularly if you’re behind schedule, the temptation can be to ‘plough through’ a river. But if you’re unsure about the safety of any crossing, a detour upstream will generally turn up either a safer crossing point or a bridge that isn’t marked on the map. If in doubt, find somewhere else to cross or do not cross at all, as rivers subside quickly when the rain stops. With common sense and by familiarising yourself with some basic river crossing techniques, you should be able to deal with anything you encounter on this trail. Consider using walking pole(s) to provide additional stability when crossing. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) provides an excellent guide to river crossings as part of their Hill Skills series: www.thebmc.co.uk.

      Given the number of river crossings, it’s also worth giving some prior thought to how you’ll deal with wet feet. This can be a real problem, with blistering from damp footwear being one of the main reasons people have to abandon the trail. Some choose to strip off their socks and cross in boots alone. This approach seems to hold limited advantage as sodden boots soon lead to sodden socks. Others carry a lightweight pair of plastic sandals that can be worn for river crossings, thus keeping boots and socks dry.

      Personally I find the process of trying to keep your boots and socks dry time consuming and fairly fruitless given the sheer amount of bog and water to be crossed. My favoured approach is to use Gore-Tex socks and a good gaiter. Whilst these won’t keep you completely dry, they prevent the worst of the water getting at your feet and greatly reduce the amount of time spent faffing about at the edge of burns.

      Pests

      In general the flora and fauna in this part of the world are unlikely to cause you any harm, but there are a few things you need to look out for.

      Ticks

      The incidence of Lyme Disease caused by a bite from a tick, a small parasite, has been on the increase in Scotland. It is a serious and potentially fatal disease. Ticks are common in woodland, heathland and areas of Scotland where deer graze. Insect repellent and long trousers are the best prevention and you should check yourself regularly. Ticks can be removed by gripping them close to the skin with tweezers and pulling backwards without jerking or twisting. Don’t try to burn them off. Symptoms of Lyme Disease vary but can include a rash and flu-like symptoms that are hard to diagnose. Most cases of Lyme Disease can be cured with antibiotics, especially if treated early in the course of illness. The Mountaineering Council of Scotland has a useful tick advice video on its website: www.mcofs.org.uk.

      Midges

      Midges are a voracious scourge of the western Highlands, at their peak between the end of May and early October. There are more than 40 species of biting midge in Scotland, but luckily only five of these regularly feed on people. Even so, their bite causes itching and swelling that can last several days. Unless you’ve experienced the sensation of being ‘eaten alive’ by a cloud of Scottish midges, it’s hard to understand just how unpleasant they can be. In summer, they can generally be relied upon to spoil beautiful lochside sunsets. Unfortunately the Cape Wrath Trail passes through through the very heart of midge country. The only real prevention is insect repellent or physical barriers such as head nets. From experience DEET based repellent products work most effectively, although they have an unpleasant aroma of chemicals and should be kept away from plastics and sensitive fabrics like Gore-Tex. Citronella candles also work well and many people swear by Avon Skin So Soft (available from www.avon.uk.com).

      Some people maintain that light-coloured clothing also keeps midges at bay, although I haven’t personally noted a particular preference for the high fashion hues of modern outdoor gear. Unfortunately even when repellents are used without a physical barrier such as a net, midges will still land and crawl on you. The good news is that midges can’t fly in even the gentlest of breezes, which are not usually in short supply in this part of the world and they dislike strong sunlight (should you see any). Such is the impact of the Scottish midge that it now has its own forecast and Apple iPhone app. For more information see www.midgeforecast.co.uk.

      Weather