use a torch to signal in the same pattern.
A service now enables texts to be sent to the emergency number 999 when voice calls cannot be made, but where there is sufficient signal to send a text. To use the service you’ll need to pre-register via a text – send ‘register’ to 999 and you’ll get a reply with further instructions. If using the service in an emergency, you should wait until you receive a reply from the emergency services before assuming help has been summoned. Further details, including guidelines on how to register, can be found at www.emergencysms.org.uk.
Money and communications
It’s a good idea to carry a supply of cash with you as cards are not universally accepted and cashpoints are few and far between. Cashpoints can be found in Fort William, Kinlochewe, Ullapool and Kinlochbervie (located in the Spar supermarket at the harbour).
Post Offices can be found in the larger towns (Fort William, Strathcarron, Kinlochewe, Ullapool and Kinlochbervie) and most small villages have post boxes. Post Offices may also hold parcels for collection (they need to be addressed to the Post Office itself and marked ‘Post Restante’ and you’ll need photo identification to collect: see www.postoffice.co.uk for more details). Most hotels and hostels will also hold parcels for residents if you ask them in advance.
Mobile phone coverage is distinctly patchy in the northwest Highlands and shouldn’t be relied upon. If you’re worried about mobile phone coverage, ‘pay-as-you-go’ SIM cards for the main UK networks can be bought cheaply and used in ‘unlocked’ mobile phones to ensure you can connect to any available network. Internet data access via mobile phone is rarely possible outside larger areas of civilisation and even then it’s likely to be a slow GPRS connection rather than 3G or 4G. An increasing number of hotels offer internet access via wi-fi.
English is spoken throughout the Scottish Highlands, although the broad local brogue can sometimes take a bit of getting used to if English is not your first language. You may also encounter some Gaelic, a beautiful but rarely spoken language.
Preparation and planning
Stand of pines, Glen Dessarry (Stage 3)
It is with some justification that the Cape Wrath Trail is regarded as the toughest long-distance backpacking trail in Britain. Dotted here and there, you may come across signs that guard the entry to particularly remote sections: ‘Take Care – You are entering remote, sparsely populated, potentially dangerous mountain country – Please ensure that you are adequately experienced and equipped to complete your journey without assistance’.
It is hard to improve on this pithy warning – this is rough, unforgiving country that should not be under-estimated. There are no pack carrying services and often there are not even any clear paths, only bogs and leg-sapping terrain. Limited re-supply points require self-sufficiency for much of the journey, and there will be stretches during which you’ll need to carry many days’ supplies. This is absolutely not a route for beginners or those unfamiliar with remote, rugged mountain areas. It is in a totally different league to other Highland trails like the West Highland Way, where civilisation is never far away.
The journey usually takes two to three weeks and the cumulative effect of sustained daily exertion is substantial. Don’t be afraid to start with a few shorter days and build rest stops into your schedule. To borrow from the lexicon of football managers, this is a marathon, not a sprint. With a decent level of overall fitness and mountain experience you should be able safely to enjoy your weeks on the trail.
What to take
The choice of equipment for any expedition is intensely personal. On such a long and arduous trip, there is a temptation to err on the side of lighter weight, but given the likelihood of harsh weather at any time of year, you’ll need to strike a sensible balance between weight and function. The list below is not designed to be comprehensive, but offers a broad outline of the kind of equipment you’ll need to be considering. For more information about expedition kit see www.capewrathtrailguide.org.
Camping and carrying
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