to narrow gullies etched deep into the slopes – where it is possible to walk all day and not see another soul. Of slopes clothed in pine-scented forests or olive and orange groves. Of valleys dusted with the delicate pink and white blossoms of almond trees growing on miles of terraces laboriously hacked from the hillsides centuries ago by desperate farmers but which are now often being slowly reclaimed by the mountains. Of narrow paths where your boots kick up the fragrance of wild herbs leading to still-used fonts, springs and wells that made life in this arid landscape possible. And all set against the backdrop of the glittering blue Mediterranean which adds a beguiling extra dimension to any day out.
Looking from Monte Ponoig to Castellets Ridge (Walk 39)
The embryonic footpath network is often based on centuries-old trading routes dating back to the long occupation of Spain by the North African Moors, their old cobbles and steps still clear beneath your boots. Nowhere are these old ways more remarkable than on the aptly-named 10,000 Steps (Walk 22), which penetrates the formidable depths of the imposing Barranc del Infierno (Hell’s Gorge). Others climb to the ruins of castles and watchtowers perched improbably on rocky spires, another legacy of the religious and ethnic wars. Today the old trails are being supplemented by more modern paths as the local authorities begin to cater for a new type of visitor. Simultaneously active walking groups, notably the Costa Blanca Mountain Walkers made up largely of British ex-pats, are reclaiming lost trails and in some cases, quite literally, carving new ones through choking undergrowth to lost valleys and inaccessible summits. The result is an initially strange but ultimately bewitching mix of wild mountain walking cheek by jowl with modern development, especially near the coast, and all within a couple of hours’ flying time from shivering Britain. Small wonder that the serras of the Costa Blanca have become a favourite winter adventure destination for sun-starved Brits and other northern Europeans, many returning year after year under the spell of these magical mountains.
The path leading to the col between the North and South Ridges of the Ferrer (Walk 14)
Geology
Even the most cursory glance will reveal that these mountains are made of limestone, creating a type of landscape that geologists and geographers call karst. It is a porous and soluble rock which explains the almost complete absence of running surface water or lakes and conversely the almost universal presence of dry ravines and gorges worn out of the underlying bedrock over millions of years.
The rock was formed 200 million years ago from the compressed remains of countless sea creatures that fell to the ocean floor. The rock moved northwards on shifting continent-sized tectonic plates and when plates collided huge areas of rock were thrust upwards, creating ridges and mountain chains with much of the present landscape shaped within the last five million years.
The Costa Blanca lies at the northern extremity of the Betic Cordilleras that stretch from Andalucía in southern Spain in an arc culminating in the islands of Ibiza and Majorca and contains sizeable areas of limestone pavement with blocky clints divided by grykes. Where the pavement is clear it can make for easy walking, as on the Alt de la Penya de Sella (Walk 36), but where the ground is covered by vegetation it becomes treacherous, providing a strong incentive to stick to the paths.
Below ground the landscape is equally dramatic with water creating underground passages and channels. More than 6000 caves have been recorded with exploration revealing more all the time. Show caverns, such as the Coves del Canelobre, passed on Walk 47, offer the non-caver a glimpse of what lies beneath.
Wildlife
If there is a single major disappointment to walking on the Costa Blanca it is the distinct shortage of wildlife or at least visible wildlife. Many blame this on the Spanish passion for hunting and there may well be truth in that, although whether that is because the creatures have been annihilated or merely become sensibly wary of humans is debatable. In any event the creatures you are most likely to see are wild goats and birds. Boar are relatively common but are mostly noticeable by the dug over earth they leave in their wake. They are not normally dangerous and, unless cornered or protecting young, will usually beat a swift retreat. Wild lynx, polecats and foxes are similarly shy – with the notable exception of a fox that turns up at the bar in Famorca in search of titbits. Red squirrels, now rare in the UK, may also be seen.
Famorca's bar-crawling fox (Walk 44)
There are also several species of snakes, although you are more likely to see them flattened on the road than meet them in the undergrowth. Only the vipers, identifiable by zigzag markings and triangular heads, are dangerous and even their bite is rarely fatal, but should be treated swiftly. Statistically bee stings kill more people. More unpleasant too is an apparently humble caterpillar. The pine processionary moth takes its name from the way its caterpillars, once they leave the silky nest they spin in pine trees, move nose to tail in lines which can be two to three metres long. Do not be tempted to touch them. The hairs are extremely irritating and can cause serious allergic reactions. If one should drop on you do not brush it off with your bare hands. It is said the only solution if you get the hairs on your clothing is to burn the garment!
Nest of the processionary moth... do not touch!
Birds are nowhere near as commonplace as they should be but with an estimated 70 per cent of European species either resident in Spain or passing through as migrants there are some spectacular sights to be seen. Most colourful are the hoopoe, the golden oriel and the bee-eater, while birds of prey will occasionally be spotted, including griffon vultures around the Barranc del Cint (Walk 49), eagles and peregrine. Choughs are also common in the mountains. The coastline possesses a wealth of seabirds while just inland the salt lake of Calp is home to flamingos, egret and cormorants. The rice marches north of Denia are popular with birdwatchers, as is the Albufera Natural Park south of Valencia.
Plants and flowers
The area’s gentle climate means there are flowers virtually all year round but February and March are generally acknowledged as providing the finest displays. Although hardly wild, the almond groves are explosions of pink and white blossom while beneath the trees are carpets of daisies. It may seem odd to get excited over a lawn weed but the sheer number of flowers makes the showing spectacular. The profusion of wild orchids can be particularly striking. With more than 3000 plant species identified in Alicante Province it is impossible to name them all, but many are dwarf varieties. Dedicated botanists will be kept happy for hours while the general walker can simply enjoy the uplifting effects of the mid-winter displays of colour as rising paths climb through vertical zones from lush Mediterranean to Alpine.
Dwarf daffodil
History
The story of the Costa Blanca is etched into its landscape, the names of its villages and the faces of its inhabitants. The earliest evidence of Man is to be found in the cave paintings of Petracos, near Castell de Castells, passed on Walk 25, which are thought to date back more than 5000 years. Later came Phoenician and Greek traders to be followed by the warring armies of Rome and Carthage as they fought to control the Iberian Peninsula. The Carthaginians founded Alicante but ultimately were no match for Rome.
However, the most significant invasion was by the Moors from North Africa crossing the Straits of Gibraltar in 711. Within five years they had reached Alicante and began a rule that lasted 600
