were tolerated and allowed to practise their religion. These Mozarabs were largely responsible for creating a remarkable network of trading routes across the mountains. They were so well-engineered that many still exist today and form some of the most popular walks, notably the 10,000 Steps (Walk 22). The Moors, with their knowledge of irrigation and water handling, were also instrumental in establishing for the network of wells and fonts still in use today.
Mozarabic trail 10,000 Steps (Walk 22)
A much more visible legacy of centuries of war is the huge number of castells, which sometimes seem to crown almost every hilltop. In truth most are little more than watchtowers but exploring these mountains you will find no shortage of Penyas del Castellet. Since the name means Castle Hill this is hardly surprising since, if there are two things here in abundance, they are castles and hills.
Fort de Bernia (Walk 10)
After centuries of Moorish rule came the Reconquista (Reconquest) in the 12th century when Alicante was again brought under Christian rule. Some Moors, who converted to Christianity, were allowed to remain and it was not until 1609 that they were finally expelled from the region, though coastal raids by Berber pirates continued long after. The events are still celebrated in lavish annual festivals of Moors and Christians, mostly between August and October, re-enacting the great battles and the taking of each town.
The Arab influence still remains, not least in the names of many towns and villages. Most common is the prefix Beni, meaning ‘sons of’ and usually refers to a tribe or clan. Other names beginning Al are also often Moorish in origin. Their other lasting imprint is in the huge number of agricultural terraces climbing high in the hills and sometimes to the very summits. Many date from the time of Moorish rule but others from a later population explosion, which demanded more ground be brought into production.
Getting there
Thanks to its long-established tourism infrastructure, the Costa Blanca is perhaps the most accessible of winter destinations with regular, often daily, flights from most major UK and northern European airports to Alicante, the main gateway to the Costa Blanca. Murcia to the south entails a slightly longer drive.
Those who want to take their own vehicles face either a long drive across France or a ferry to Santander or Bilbao. The A7 motorway runs just inland from the coast but tolls can be expensive. Even the relatively short 60km stretch from Alicante to Calp costs more than €5 (2015).
Trains and buses run up the coast from Alicante to the major resorts.
Getting around
The inland villages of the Costa Blanca are not blessed with the most comprehensive public transport system and, with the exception of a bus service option for Walk 27, readers will be reliant on cars at the start and finish of each day. With this in mind, almost all of the walks have been devised as circular. Car hire is relatively cheap, sometimes as little as £30 or £40 a week in winter, and is best arranged before arriving in Spain. Most major international hire companies as well as numerous local ones have bases at Alicante airport. Be aware, however, that although most offer unlimited mileage some restrict users to 2000km per car, after which the vehicle must be exchanged. Exceeding the limit can result in punitive charges of €2 a kilometre. New UK rules on paperless driving licences also came into force in summer 2015 (see www.gov.uk/news/driving-licence-changes).
The alternative to car hire is to stay in one of the mountain villages that offer local walking or where property owners are prepared to offer a taxi service, as many will.
See Appendix C for more public transport details.
When to go
The length of the walking season depends on your tolerance to heat but in general late autumn to early spring is most likely to suit UK and Northern European visitors. Even the locals avoid the summer heat. September and October boast average temperatures still in the high 20s but may also be affected by the gota fria, a cold wind that also brings spells of rain, while December and January can provide short-lived snow, especially in the highest mountains. But generally the months from November to early April have temperatures in the high teens while still bringing an average of six or seven hours of sunshine a day. Rainfall is highest in November.
February has the added attraction of the spectacular display of almond blossom while March to May brings out the finest display of wildflowers.
Almond blossom and the Serra Bernia (Walks 10–12)
Where to stay
Accommodation is plentiful on the coast, especially in Benidorm, which has more beds that any other European resort, and countless companies offer package deals. However its boisterous ‘charms’ are not for everyone. Altea and Albir a little further up the coast are more sedate. Calp is a popular base for walkers. It has apartments and hotels aplenty and no shortage of restaurants and bars while still retaining a very Spanish atmosphere.
Those who prefer to stay among the mountains will find increasing numbers of casas rurales, self-catering villas as well as B&Bs, hotels and hostels, many catering for walkers and some offering guided walking or at least the prospect of transport to and from the hills. Popular villages include the very pretty Guadalest; Sella and Finestrat, which are convenient for Walks 36 and 37 and those around the Puig Campana; and Castell de Castells, which can be a handy base for exploring the Serrella and Aixorta (Walks 31–32 and 43–46). The string of towns and villages of the Vall de Pop (still better known to many Brits as the Jalon Valley) such as Xalo, which is well-served with bars and restaurants, and the smaller Alcalali are well placed for exploring Walks 10–18. At the top of the neighbouring Vall de Laguar are the quiet villages of Fleix and Benimaurell, which overlook the cleft of the Barranc del Infierno but are less well served either for eating or entertainment. Typing ‘Costa Blanca accommodation rentals’ into any search engine will bring up a wealth of choices. Those lucky enough to be able to take extended breaks can often negotiate cheaper rates.
For those on a tight budget or who prefer to be right in the heart of the mountains there are basic climbers’ refuges, notably at Sella, Guadalest and Pego.
Market in Sella
What to take
Clothing
On some of the more popular mountains you may meet people wearing light trainers and even sandals but comfortable walking boots with solid soles and plenty of tread are strongly recommended. Not only will they provide ankle support and give a better grip on eroded paths they will also protect feet from the battering dished out by hours of walking on sharp limestone.
Sun-worshippers may be tempted to pull on their shorts at the first glimpse of the Costa Blanca’s blue skies but before you do so remember the vegetation here is typically Mediterranean. It often consists of thorn bushes or shrubs with sharp, spiky leaves that will mean that after a week or two of walking your shredded legs may have little left to show of that hard-won suntan. If you are determined to wear shorts pack the zip-off variety that will at least give the option of covering up if the undergrowth becomes too painful.
Sun hats are essential at almost any time of the year but so too is warm clothing.
