during the summer reaching around 29°C. The Argentinian side of the border tends to be drier, and it is possible to travel from clear skies and brilliant sunshine in Los Glaciares national park to low cloud and rain in Torres del Paine national park.
When to visit
The trekking season in Torres del Paine lasts roughly from early summer to early autumn (late November to late April). January and February are peak season, coinciding with school holidays in Chile, and during these months campsites and trails can become quite crowded, especially on the more popular ‘W’ route. Mosquitoes are at their worst at this time. March is on balance the best month to visit, although December and even April are also good. During the winter bitter temperatures and heavy snowfall put most people off, but this can also be a beautiful time to visit (some agencies offer winter ski touring) – and free from the wind and mosquitoes.
Wildlife and plants
Mammals
Almost synonymous with images of Torres del Paine national park is the Guanaco (Lama guanicoe), a large cameloid closely related to the Llama. Around the approaches to the national park they have become rather relaxed about busloads of visitors jumping out to take photographs of them. However, in more remote areas such as Sierra Baguales, where humans remain much more of a novelty, they tend to be rather more inquisitive. The calves are born during the spring, and are known locally as chulengo. The word ‘guanaco’ is pronounced with the accent on second syllable.
The other two South American cameloids, the Llama (Lama glama) and the Vicuña (Vicugna vicugna), are present in other parts of Chile; the Guanaco and the Llama are the slightly larger of the three. There is a fourth cameloid in Chile, the Alpaca (Lama pacos), but this is actually a domesticated and selectively bred form of the Vicuña.
Far more elusive is the now endangered Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulcus). This small, shy, deer-like animal was once quite common, but was hunted to near extinction by early settlers and is now extremely rare. Male Huemul are slightly larger than the female and stand up to about 90cm at the shoulder. CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal), which oversees Chile’s national parks, asks that any Huemul sightings are reported to the national park office. The Huemul was incorporated into the Chilean coat of arms in 1834 and still appears there, alongside the Condor. The Southern Pudu (Pudu puda), the world’s smallest deer, is present in other parts of Chile but not in Torres del Paine.
Guanaco (Lama guanicoe), Sierra Baguales (Excursion 3)
The largest predatory land mammal in Chile is the Puma (Puma concolor) – a beautiful, lithe and (despite the fact that it seems to decorate half the tourist literature of Patagonia) highly elusive big cat. In the highly unlikely event that you see a Puma, count yourself lucky! On a more practical note, if you do happen to meet one and it doesn’t run first, do not run, but maintain eye contact and back away slowly, raising your arms to make yourself look as large as possible. Never approach cubs. Also present in the park is the much smaller Geoffroy’s Cat or Gato montés (Leopardus (Oncifelis) geoffroyi), which may be threatened with extinction in the near future.
Two species of fox are present in the park, the South American Grey Fox or Chilla (Lycalopex griseus; also known as the Patagonian Grey Fox, Zorro Gris or Zorro Patagónico) and the Fuegian Fox or Culpeo (Lycalopex culpaeus; also known as Zorro Rojo). The Culpeo is the larger of the two species, which is also easily distinguished (as the name implies) by the colour of its coat. Both species are protected in Chile, although illegal hunting still occurs. The genus Dusicyon is often used for South American foxes instead of Lycalopex.
Other mammals include the Big Hairy Armadillo (Chaetophractus villosus), Humbolt’s Hog-nosed Skunk (Conepatus humboldtii), and various species of rodent, including the Longtailed Colilargo (Oligoryzomys longicaudatus), the Patagonian Chinchilla Rat (Euneomys chinchilloides) and several species of field and grass mice, such as the Yellow-nosed Akodont (Abrothrix xanthorhinus) and the Olive-coloured Akodont (Abrothrix olivaceus).
In neighbouring Bernardo O’Higgins national park you have a chance of spotting the Southern Sea Lion (Otaria flavescens), South American Fur Seal (Arctocephalus australis) and Marine Otter (Lontra felina).
Birds
Along with the Guanaco, another familiar wildlife sight in and around Torres del Paine is the Ñandú or Lesser Rhea (Pterocnemia pennata), a very large flightless bird with long legs and neck and three toes.
Perhaps the most iconic bird in South America, the Andean Condor or Cóndor (Vultur gryphus), is also one you have a fairly good chance of seeing in and around the park, soaring on thermal air currents. With a wingspan of up to three metres, the Condor is the largest flighted landbird. Adults have black plumage with white areas on the back of the wings and around the base of the neck, and bare pinkish skin on the head and neck; adult males have a dark red comb. Appearing clumsy on the ground, the Condor is a magnificent bird once in flight, gliding effortlessly in search of carrion. It usually nests on ledges on cliffs.
The Southern Crested Caracara or Carancho (Caracara plancus) is a commonly seen raptor, often spotted by the roadside when driving in southern Chile. It is a striking bird, dusky in colour with cream throat and barred breast, and reddish skin on its face. Less common are the smaller tawny-coloured Chimango Caracara (Milvago chimango) and the comparatively rare White-Throated Caracara or Carancho cordillerano del sur (Phalcoboenus albogularis). Other birds of prey include the American Kestrel or Cernícalo (Falco sparverius), sometimes called the Sparrow Hawk (but unrelated to the Sparrowhawk found in the UK), and the Black-Chested Buzzard Eagle or Aguila (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) – the largest hawk in Chile, adults being recognisable by their black head and throat.
Male upland Goose or Caiquén (Chleophaga picta)
Owls include the Magellanic Horned Owl or Tucúquere (Babu magellanicus), the largest in the region, with large ear tufts and predominantly grey, mottled plumage, and the smaller and more common Austral Pygmy-Owl or Chuncho (Glaucidium nanum).
The Chilean Flamingo or Flamenco chileno (Phoenicopterus chilensis) is found on or around lakes with a high alkaline or salt content such as Laguna Amarga and Laguna Los Cisnes.
The Black-necked Swan or Cisne de cuello negro (Cygnus melancoryphus) is frequently seen along the shores of Last Hope Sound near Puerto Natales, or Laguna de los Juncos or Lago Toro within the park. Slightly less common is the Coscoroba or Cisne coscoroba (Coscoroba coscoroba), a smaller all-white swan with a reddish bill. The Upland Goose or Caiquén (Chloephaga picta) is another common resident in and around the park; the male is predominantly white with a black barred breast, and the female predominantly cinnamonbrown with black barred flanks. The slightly smaller Ashy-headed Goose (Chleophaga poliocephala) is also fairly common.
Carancho or Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus)
The Crested Duck (Lophonetta specularioides), Andean Ruddy Duck (Oxyura ferruginea), Chiloe Wigeon (Anas sibilatrix) and Speckled Teal (Anas flavirostris) are all fairly common residents in the park. Less common are the Spectacled or Bronze-winged Duck (Speculanus specularis) and Flying steamer-Duck (Tachyeres patachonicus), both of which can be seen on Lago Toro, the Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera) and the rather wonderful Torrent Duck or Pato cortacorrientes (Merganetta armata), which can be spotted perched on rocks in some of the more remote, fast-running mountain streams, such as the upper reaches of Río Ascensio.
The Black-faced Ibis or Bandurria
