with its long curved bill, ochre neck and grey band across its breast, is often seen in fairly large groups, grazing in open meadows within the park. (The Buff-necked Ibis, Theresticus caudatus, is very similar but lacks the grey band.)
The Neotropic Cormorant or Yeco (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) is found in the larger rivers and lakes in and around the park; it is glossy black, with a small area of white plumage around the bill during the breeding season. Its call is fairly distinctive, a series of rather pig-like grunts. Also resident in larger lakes and rivers is the Great Grebe or Huala (Podiceps major), large and fairly long-necked, with dark grey to black plumage and a red-brown patch on its neck. Much smaller and somewhat less common is the Silvery Grebe or Blanquillo (Podiceps occipatalis). The Blue-eyed or Imperial Cormorant (Phalacrocorax atriceps) is found in Bernardo O’Higgins national park, and can be seen on the cliffs of Last Hope Sound between Puerto Natales and the Balmaceda glacier.
Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) and burrow
The Southern Lapwing, also called the Queltehue or Tero (Vanellus chilensis) is another common resident, as are the Magellanic Oystercatcher or Pilpilén austral (Haematopus leucopodus) and the South American Snipe (Gallinago paraguaiae). Two gulls are found in the national park, the Kelp Gull (Larus dominicanus) and the Brown-hooded Gull (Larus maculipennis).
Woodpeckers include the Magellanic Woodpecker or Carpintero negro (Campephilus magellanicus), a large and truly magnificent-looking bird, black-bodied with a white ‘v’-shaped marking on its back and, in the case of the male, a brilliant red head; and the smaller Striped Woodpecker or Carpinterito chico (Picoides lignarius). The Chilean Flicker or Pitío (Colaptes pitius) is fairly common in the park. The Green-backed Firecrown (Sephanoides sephanoides), a member of the hummingbird family, is sometimes seen in the Valle Francés.
Other common species include the Rufous-collared Sparrow or Chincol (Zonotrichia capensis), the Austral Blackbird or Tordo (Curaeus curaeus), the Patagonian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus patagonicus) and the Grey-hooded Sierra Finch (Phrygilus gayi).
The Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) is present in Bernardo O’Higgins national park, and in huge numbers (some 120,000) on Isla Magdalena, in the Straits of Magellan. While in the Straits of Magellan you also have a chance of spotting the Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris) and the Southern Giant-Petrel (Macronectes giganteus).
Reptiles and amphibians
The park is home to several species of amphibian including the Grey Foureyed Frog (Pluerodema bufoninum), Grey Wood Frog (Batrachyla leptopus), the Spiny-chest Frog (Alsodes australis) and the Patagonian Toad (Chaunus (Bufo) variegatus). Reptiles include the Magellanic Lizard (Liolaemus magellanicus), Fitzinger’s Lizard (Liolaemus fitzingeri) and the rather wonderfully named Darwin’s Grumbler (Diplolaemus darwinii).
Invertebrates
At least ten species of butterfly have been recorded in the national park, including Whites and Fritillary; less pleasantly, huge numbers of particularly voracious mosquitoes are present during the summer. The Black Widow spider has been found in some localised areas of the park, including around Laguna Amarga.
Plants
The dense deciduous forests of Torres del Paine national park are characterized by several species of Southern Beech, primarily Lenga (Nothofagus pumilio). The Lenga is a tall and fairly broad-trunked tree and grows up to 30m, forming a dense canopy on mountain slopes with plenty of rainfall; it may also occur in a dwarf form. The Lenga was the preferred wood for making bows among the Indians of Tierra del Fuego. The Magellanic Coigüe or Coigüe de magallanes (Nothofagus betuloides) is also found on humid mountain slopes with heavy precipitation, as well as on more sheltered areas of scrub. It grows up to about 25m in height or may occur as a shrub. The Antarctic Beech or Ñirre (Nothofagus antarctica) grows at lower altitudes or in boggy, waterlogged or windy areas. The trunk is often twisted and contorted. It reaches up to 15m in height and occurs as a smaller shrub.
1 Berries of Murta or Prickly Heath (Gaultheria mucronata), Torres del Paine national park;
2 Estrellita or Falkland Lavender (Perezia recurvata), Torres del Paine national park;
3 Llareta or Balsam Bog (Bolax gummifera);
4 Flowers of Murta or Prickly Heath (Gaultheria mucronata), Torres del Paine national park;
5 Campanilla or Streaked Maiden (Olsynium biflorum), Torres del Paine national park
A number of semi-parasitic shrubs are found on the branches of Northofagus trees, all (rather confusingly) known as Farolito chino in Chile. These include the yellowish Misodendrum punctulatum and the green Misodendrum linearifolium. Both have shaggy, beard-like appendages, longer in the latter species and forming a distinctive sight on Northofagus trees in the area.
Lago Toro and Mata Barrosa (Mulinum Spinosum) from near Puente Weber (Walk 4)
The Calafate or Palo amarillo (Berberis microphylla) is a large, bushlike shrub found in and around the park, on scrub and steppe as well as in areas of Northofagus forest. The deep bluish berries are edible, and are used to make jam as well as a liqueur (which you’ll find for sale in plenty of shops in Puerto Natales). There is a saying here, that whoever eats Calafate berries will one day return to Patagonia (well, it worked for me). The flowers are small and yellow. Not to be confused with the Calafate is the Prickly Heath or Murta (Gaultheria mucronata), which has small belllike white flowers and red berries, or the Diddle-Dee or Murtilla de magallanes (Empetrum rubrum), which has tiny fleshy leaves and reddish berries that darken as they ripen. Both these species are found in areas of scrub as well as Northofagus forest.
Colourful houses in the old town of Valparaíso, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Firebush or Notro (Embothrium coccineum), a large bush with bright crimson flowers, grows in scrubland areas such as along the trail north of Refugio Paine Grande and alongside Lago Pehoé. Another common scrub-dwelling species is the white-flowered Fachine or Mata verde (Chiliotrichum diffusum).
Typical of wet and boggy areas, as well as areas of scrub and steppe, is Balsam Bog or Llareta (Bolax gummifer), which grows in large (up to 0.5m), deep green semi-hemispherical cushions. Although they look incredibly hardy, they can take up to 10 years to regenerate from a single human footprint – so tread carefully. Sphagum Moss (Sphagnum magellanicum) is also found in bogs and waterlogged areas. On drier, rocky scrub you will find Mata Barrosa (Mulinum spinosum), which forms dense thorny cushions up to 0.8m in height, with tiny yellowish flowers.
Flowers in scrub, steppe and rocky areas include the small blue Estrellita or Falkland Lavender (Perezia recurvata), the Campanilla or Streaked Maiden (Olsynium biflorum), Adesmia or Chinita dorada (Adesmia pumila) and Saxífraga (Saxifraga magellanica).
WHERE TO WATCH WILDLIFE
For birdwatchers, some of the best areas in the Torres del Paine national park are Lago Toro and the smaller lakes and pools between Pudeto and Laguna Amarga (such as Laguna Los Cisnes and Laguna Los Juncos); the area surrounding the latter is also a good area for spotting Guanaco. Laguna Amarga is one of the best areas in the park for seeing Chilean Flamingos. On the Torres del Paine Circuit, Torrent Ducks
