deposited in a huge ocean. A hundred million years ago, over a period of several thousand years, the immense force of a collision between the once separate tectonic plates that carried what is now Italy and the rest of Eurasia created what is now the Alps and, behind them, the Carpathians. So great was this force that some of the land that lay to the south was pushed up and over what is now the High Tatras, to form the hills now lying on the north side.
During various ice ages the Tatras region was one of the few parts of the Carpathians to be covered by glaciers, and successive glacial periods shaped the peaks, gouged the valleys, and left the moraines that dammed the tarns.
Evidence of Late Stone Age human activities (about 5000 years ago) has been unearthed at several locations in the Tatras foothills, including the skull of ‘Ganovce Man’, a cast of which now lies in state in the National Museum in Prague. In the early Bronze Age (about 3000 years ago) the area to the south was densely settled by Turkic people, engaged mainly in sheep farming and other agricultural activities, who appear to have been much influenced by the Mycenean culture of the eastern Mediterranean. Many of their settlements were sited to afford a view of the High Tatra peaks, and it has been suggested that this may have some connection with the religious customs of the time, or it may simply have been to provide better protection from, and a lookout for, approaching enemies.
The land to the north of the Tatras was uninhabited at this time.
Subsequent history is related under ‘Later History’ at the beginning of each of Sections 3 and 4 on Slovakia and Poland.
Vegetation and wildlife
Flowers should be at their best in early July, but please remember that picking flowers, fruit or fungi, and taking cuttings, is strictly forbidden in the Tatras National Park.
Because of the fragile nature of the local wildlife, there are restrictions on taking dogs into the national park areas. In Slovakia they are only allowed in the national park if muzzled and on a lead, but they are not allowed into nature reserves at all. In Poland dogs are not allowed into the national park area at all.
It has been established that some 1300 plant species can be found in the ranges that make up the Western, High and White Tatras, including at every level the most primitive of plants – lichens and mosses – clinging to rocks and dead wood.
In autumn, frost burns the leaves of many of the shrubs and trees to a whole variety of rich hues, from orange and gold to purple and dark brown, enhanced by early morning frost and perhaps a dusting of snow.
There is animal life in abundance in the Tatras, but most species are extremely shy and keep well away from the waymarked walking routes. However, as a result of protection, some species are currently increasing in number and are beginning to lose their fear of humans. On a recent visit, the authors saw chamois, a marmot and a bear in broad daylight at comparatively close quarters.
If you wish to see the more unusual varieties, the best time is early in the morning, when the nocturnal ones are returning to their homes, and before most walkers have arrived. Keep very quiet and wear dark clothes. Take binoculars if you have them – they will help to identify the many species of birds, as well as animals in the distance.
Vegetation and wildlife in mountainous regions are strongly affected by the altitude and prevailing weather. The mountains can be divided into a number of biological zones, described below. The altitudes are given as a general guide, but there will be many variations in particular areas, influenced by location, prevailing weather and rock type.
You are very likely to see swathes of fallen trees wherever you go in the Tatras. This is the result of very strong winds that blow on both sides of the border: in Slovakia they are called, for obvious reasons, calamitá (plural calamity), are cold and blow from the north in winter; in Poland halna (plural halny), which are warm and blow from the south in spring and autumn. But see also the chapter on the Tatranska Bora on page 72.
Sub-Tatras Basins (below 700m)
Approaching the High Tatras from the Podtatranská Kotlina (Sub-Tatras Basin) in Slovakia, or Podhale in Poland, you are surrounded by rather poor-quality agricultural land, which, as well as providing grazing for livestock, mainly produces crops such as potatoes and oats, and to a lesser extent rye and millet. Farming communities at between 700m and 900m mark the edge of the agricultural plains. In Slovakia, these include Tatranská Štrba, Mengušovce, Batizovce, Gerlachov, Nová Lesná, Stará Lesná and Stráne pod Tatrami. In Poland, Chochołów, Poronin and Bukowina Tatrańska.
The Sub-Tatras Basin from near Štrbské Pleso, Slovakia (photo: J Rizman)
In and around these villages, as well as the common birds seen in most parts of Europe, and of course cattle and sheep, you may see white storks nesting in the spring, and perhaps some black grouse.
Forest zone (700m to 1600m)
In the Slovak Tatras the forest zone is reckoned to occupy the territory between 700m and 1600m. However, in November 2004 the Taranská Bora (see page 72) destroyed most of the trees below 1250m, so at present the forest zone starts at around this level. The dominant tree species is spruce, with occasional interlopers such as larch, Arolla pine, birch, mountain ash and willow. In the lower affected areas, it seems likely that in due course this will be replaced by a regime of mixed forestry, containing coniferous and deciduous species in equal proportions. In some places the forest may be allowed to revert to meadows.
A string of villages and hamlets lines the southern slopes of the Tatras giants between 900m and 1300m, taking advantage of the clean air and pure spring water to pronounce themselves mountain resorts or spas: Štrbské Pleso, Vyšné Hágy, Nová Polianka, Tatranská Polianka, Smokovce (the Smokovec villages), Tatranská Lesná, Tatranská Lomnica and Tatranské Matliare.
In Poland the town of Zakopane and its satellites have spread up the valley of the Cicha Woda (Quiet Water) and adjoining hillsides between 800m and 900m, while the expanding communities of Kościelisko, Murzasichle and Małe Ciche occupy neighbouring valleys and ridges. Higher up, apart from the tourist station of Kuźnice, there are just occasional collections of shepherd huts in the valleys and meadows. Tourism now dominates Zakopane and, despite still basically being farming communities, the surrounding villages – especially Bukowina Tatrzańska – are developing their facilities with many new hotels, guest houses and restaurants having opened in recent years.
In forested areas a few shrubs can be found in the undergrowth: bilberry, cranberry, mountain strawberries and raspberries, the poisonous daphne and the alpine clematis. But the best floral displays occur in the spring and summer, taking over the clearings and meadows. At various times, crocus, cowslip, daisies, buttercups, foxglove and golden lily are in abundance, while in certain areas rarer species such as orchids (including lady’s slipper) may be spotted. A wide variety of fungi can be seen.
During the daytime, roe deer, red deer and foxes may run across the meadows, or browse among the trees within sight of the paths. Early risers may see a badger, otter,weasel or stoat. On autumn evenings the baying and bellowing of the deer can be heard for miles. In the parks and woods of the mountain resorts black and brown squirrels run riot, and on the Slovak side red squirrels may also be spotted in more remote areas.
Less likely to be seen, in areas rarely visited by (and in some cases barred to) walkers, are wildcats, martens, lynxes, wolves, wild boar and even bears. These are mostly on the eastern, western and northern fringes of the High Tatras. Bears tend to hibernate in Poland as the snow lies longer there. These potentially dangerous animals are unlikely to attack unless provoked, but in recent years have been
