in Slovakia those that lie a little lower down the slopes, like Tatranská Štrba, Dolný Smokovec and Stará Lesná; in Poland outlying villages such as Antałówka, Bukowina Tatrzańska, Gubałówka and Murzasichle.
Hotels usually have a restaurant providing all meals, and sometimes a coffee shop or cafeteria where light meals and snacks are provided all day. Guest houses or pensions (penzión in Slovak, pensjonat in Polish) may provide bed and breakfast only, or half-pension (bed, breakfast and evening meal), but it is unusual for them to provide full-pension (including lunch).
Many experienced mountain walkers prefer to stay up in the mountains, as this saves considerable effort and allows a deeper exploration of the summits and higher routes (see ‘Mountain chalets or refuges’, page 51). There are mountain hotels at Popradské Pleso, Velické Pleso and Hrebienok on the Slovak side and at Kalatówki on the Polish side. They offer a higher standard of accommodation than the chalets or refuges.
There are several hostels in the Zakopane area. On the Slovak side there is a hostel in Tatranská Polianka and a facility with dormitory accommodation in Štrbské Pleso. Camping is only permitted at official campsites – there are just a few on either side, with varying facilities. The number of self-catering establishments is growing rapidly on both sides.
Promenaders in Krupówki street in Zakopane
A growing trade in inexpensive private house accommodation is developing, especially in Zakopane, and this can be booked through local travel agencies. Note that meals (including breakfast) may not be served in these places. You can either eat at nearby hotels or restaurants, or at some places there is a kitchen available for the use of guests.
In Zakopane you will often see pokoje (room), pokoje gościnne (guest room) or noclegi (overnight accommodation) written on boards outside private houses. You may also see people standing at stations or beside the road, showing any of these words on scraps of cardboard. You can of course take up such offers at your own risk, but you should be aware that they are not controlled by any official body and there is no guarantee of standards or professionalism.
There is a selection of establishments in the main resorts in Appendix B. It is always advisable to book in advance, and in most cases you can if you wish book direct through their websites. However, the most practical way of booking is through an online agency: for example, search for ‘accommodation in Zakopane’ and a whole range of opportunities will present themselves, mostly through well established and reliable booking agencies, at favourable rates. The usual procedure is to give your credit card details to guarantee the booking then pay on arrival. Some low prices quoted may be on a non-refundable basis.
Fitness
To get the most from any walking holiday, the fitter you are when you start, the better. Prepare yourself by doing some hard walking at home, preferably in mountain or hill country, or at the very least, tone up your muscles and flex your joints with stretching exercises. Remember, too, that you will probably be spending all or most of your time at a higher altitude than you are used to, and it may take a few days to adjust to this. There is less oxygen at high altitudes, and you may find yourself getting out of breath more quickly than you expected.
Plan your first few walks along the easier routes, leaving the tougher ones till later. As the latter are usually scenically more spectacular, this should also provide the added benefit of building up to a climax. If you find that you are having difficulty on the easier routes, you would be well advised not to tackle the harder ones.
Be prepared for an occasional ‘bad day’, when you find it hard to keep going up the steeper routes – although of course this will affect everyone differently. Local people say, ‘Every third day will be a struggle. ‘ If this affects you, try one of the easier walks, or do some sightseeing, or explore the villages – there is plenty to keep you interested.
If there are children in your party, unless they have walked in high mountains before, you should plan to keep to the easier routes, to see how they adapt, before considering tackling any harder ones.
There is a good choice of alternative attractions in the Tatras for any members of your party who do not wish to tackle the mountains – see ‘Diversions’ in Sections 3 and 4 for each country. Some ‘easy access’ trails have been developed but they are quite steep in places.
Clothing and equipment
What you wear in the evening is best left to your own judgement, but formal clothes are rarely seen in the Tatras. Some guidance on your walking apparel may be helpful, however – to enjoy your holiday to the full, it is wise to take clothing that is both hard wearing and comfortable.
Modern clothing specially designed for outdoor activities can provide considerable advantages. For example, ‘breathable’ materials allow perspiration to escape while keeping rain out, although garments made from them are usually more expensive. Cheaper alternatives may be adequate if you are lucky with the weather, but you must decide whether it is worth spending the extra money for added protection. Study advertisements and articles in one of the walkers’ magazines that are readily available in most newsagents, or on the internet, and ask for advice at outdoor equipment shops.
As your feet, naturally, are going to be the most important parts of your body on this holiday, let us start with footwear and work up. The section on mountain safety and emergency services (see page 54) outlines the reasons for taking walking boots, rather than trainers or walking shoes, although on some low-level walks the latter may be adequate. Lightweight walking boots may be suitable for most walking in the Tatras, but you should seek advice at an equipment shop. Whichever kind of footwear you have, make sure that it fits well and is well worn in, because nothing is more certain to spoil your holiday than new boots that have raised blisters by the end of the first day.
The composition of your socks will be a matter of trial and error. Some walkers manage with one thick pair in boots, others find two pairs (a thick pair on top of a thin one) necessary for comfort. Wool is generally most suitable for a thick pair, although thin cotton, silk or acrylic ones are often worn underneath.
Whether you should cover your legs (with trousers or breeches) or bare them (with shorts or skirt) is again up to your own inclination, but if you opt for the latter, be prepared to don waterproof trousers or breeches if it turns cold or windy, especially when stopping for an extended open-air break.
For your upper half, if possible wear something underneath your shirt that will ‘wick’ (carry away) the perspiration from your body, helping to keep your back dry under a rucksack. Whatever the weather down in the valley, always carry at least one warm pullover, and/or a fleece-lined jacket. When you stop, perspiring, for lunch on a high mountain pass or peak, wind whistling across your shoulders, you will need the extra layer. For the same reason, hat and gloves will be appreciated. When you are wet (from rain or perspiration), a spare T-shirt or shirt will be welcome when you stop for lunch, and a sweatband for your head or wrist may be useful.
Looking towards Jahńací Štít from Široké Sedlo in the White Tatras (Red 0930X, Slovakia) (photo: R Turnbull)
Never tackle a mountain without waterproof clothing, carried in your rucksack. There is often some reluctance to don waterproofs, as condensation can make you as wet or wetter than rain, but as many modern waterproofs are breathable, this should not be a problem. In the mountains you should carry a full set of waterproofs, ie trousers and a jacket with hood, or a hat. You may also find gaiters invaluable, as they help to keep water and snow out of your boots.
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