burned down in 1993 – there are no plans to replace it, but it may still be shown on some maps.
Starolesnianská Polana and Rainerova Útulňa on the Tatranská Magistrála, Slovakia
The Polish refuges and Hotel Górski Kalatówki are operated by PTTK (see Polish gazetteer). During the communist era the Polish refuges had particularly long and tongue-twisting names, usually in honour of some local dignitary. Very few people used these names, and most were referred to by a shorter, popular name, which is now shown on most maps (some older maps may show the longer names). The larger Polish refuges operate a system whereby you must first queue to order and pay for your food and hot drinks at a separate counter, then you are given a ticket which you take to the kitchen hatch. The problem is in knowing what you want to order, as the menu may be difficult to establish! Under this system, cold drinks and confectionery are sold at the cash counter.
All the chalets or refuges have a rubber stamp, which many walkers use to record their visit in a notebook. Some maps include spaces for these stamps beside a picture of the refuge. Those in Poland also have a visitors’ book for you to sign.
It is well worth considering staying overnight at a refuge or chalet, or touring from one to another. Apart from saving the effort of climbing several hundred metres each day, there is a special atmosphere and camaraderie among the guests that cannot be experienced at the resort hotels.
Simple dormitory accommodation is offered, although some also have bedrooms available. Washing and toilet facilities may be quite basic, in some cases in an outhouse. The accommodation is inexpensive, but in great demand during the summer months, especially August, and you should book ahead if possible. There is a custom in the mountains that, in emergency, walkers arriving late without a booking are not turned away, for obvious reasons, but will be found space on the floor, on or under tables, or any space large enough for a human frame. Blankets are provided, but you will need to take a lightweight or sheet sleeping bag.
For further information about these places, see their respective entries in the gazetteers in Sections 3 and 4, and Appendix B (Accommodation).
Approaching Schronisko Pieciu Stawow beside Przedni Staw Polski(Blue 209, Poland) (photo: R. Turnbull)
Mountain guides
In the Slovak High Tatras you will need a qualified mountain guide if you wish to explore excellent recognised routes away from the waymarked network. Routes needing a guide include the two highest Tatras summits, Gerlachovský Štít (2654m) and Lomnický Štít (2634m), and some exciting ridge walks. They are not included on the waymarked network, either because they are too difficult or dangerous to undertake without specialised local knowledge, or to restrict the number of walkers using them where excessive use will cause damage, or a combination of both.
All these routes are regularly used by permitted groups. If you try to follow them without a guide, you may put yourself at risk of an accident, and it is certain that you will be spotted by a helicopter patrol, or challenged and fined by a national park warden or a mountain guide.
All routes requiring a guide involve a fair amount of scrambling, and use of wires and other fixed apparatus in exposed situations, so they are all rated ‘difficult’ or ‘strenuous’ by our grading system (see page 64).
In the Polish Tatras it is not possible for guides to take you to summits that are off the waymarked routes, but all groups of 10 or more people wishing to walk on the waymarked routes are strongly advised to engage a mountain guide.
Another reason for hiring a guide is to enable you to get away from the crowds if you are visiting in the high season (July and August). At this time you are advised to book your guides at the earliest opportunity (even before you go if possible), as they are in great demand. Of course, even on the waymarked routes you will benefit from having a local guide with you to provide local knowledge, not only of the locations but of flora and fauna.
In Slovakia the guides are provided by Spolok HV (Association of High Tatras Mountain Guides) and you can book your guide at their office in the Villa Alica opposite the shopping centre in Starý Smokovec, tel 0905 428 170, email [email protected], www.tatraguide.sk/en.
The situation in Poland is more complicated as there are four mountain guide organisations – it is explained at tatramountains.org (click on ‘Extras for climbers’). A price list for guides in Zakopane is shown at. You can book a guide by emailing [email protected], or in person at the national park information centre at Rondo Jana Pawła II (the roundabout on the way to Kuźnice), or at your hotel reception.
Although this book is not aimed at mountain climbers, it is as well to mention here that members of climbing clubs can walk off the waymarked routes, subject to certain criteria that should be checked with the relevant national park authority (see page 29) – TANAP in Slovakia (www.tanap.sk) or TPN in Poland (www.tpn.pl). Climbing is not permitted in certain areas.
Mountain safety and emergency services
Anyone who walks in mountainous areas should be aware of the possible dangers that lurk around the corner, although with proper precautions they are most unlikely to cause harm in normal circumstances. Thunderstorms, falling stones, falls resulting in injuries, and heart problems are the most usual. It should be stressed that, while accidents can happen to anyone at any time, those who are prepared for them and know what to do in the event of an emergency are less likely to suffer serious consequences as a result. Never say ‘It won’t happen to me’!
First and foremost, you must wear suitable footwear. Waterproofs, spare clothing, hat, gloves, water-bottle, small first aid kit, map, compass, whistle and emergency food complete your minimum preparations for safety and comfort in the mountains. They need not be heavy – modern equipment of this kind is usually compact and light. The Clothing and Equipment section describes some of these items more fully, and here are the reasons for wearing or carrying them.
Footwear In the mountains, both for your own sake and that of other walkers, you must always walk carefully. Good-quality walking boots with a deep tread almost force you to do so, as they grip the surface in a way that no ordinary shoes can. Walking boots protect your ankles from damage on rocks and hidden cracks – trainers and walking shoes do not.
Waterproofs and spare clothing Weather can change quickly in the mountains (see page 28). Cloudbursts and strong winds may catch you before you have time to reach shelter. In such conditions, without waterproofs and spare clothing, the danger of suffering from hypothermia is very real indeed. Carry them!
Even though you may become very warm and perspire profusely while climbing, when you reach the top you will stop to rest, admire the view or take refreshment. This is usually in a high position where the wind is at its strongest, so you quickly start to feel cold. An extra pullover or windproof jacket, hat and gloves will then be much appreciated. On the other hand, do not allow yourself to overheat while climbing – take off as many layers as will allow you to continue to walk in comfort (and decency).
Renáta Nárožná approaching Široké Sedlo in the White Tatras, with Spišská Magura in the background (Red 0930X, Slovakia)
First aid kit If you suffer a fall,
